Ford V6 families

[jaybee]

Currently I'm replacing head gaskets in my brother's 2001, 3.0L Taurus.  I thought the 3.8L was just an overbored 3.0 but apparently not.  When I started to dig in it was quickly obvious they're completely different engines.  The 3.0 has iron heads instead of aluminum, the pushrods are shorter and come up through the lower intake manifold like an FE, the rocker arm pedestals run diagonally across the heads instead of straight across.  The plugs are almost straight in instead of of angled, the cam position sensor (vestigial distributor) is at the back instead of the front...the differences go on and on.

Can anyone enlighten me as to the different origins and histories of these engines?

[Fat Cat]

Currently I'm replacing head gaskets in my brother's 2001, 3.0L Taurus.  I thought the 3.8L was just an overbored 3.0 but apparently not.  When I started to dig in it was quickly obvious they're completely different engines.  The 3.0 has iron heads instead of aluminum, the pushrods are shorter and come up through the lower intake manifold like an FE, the rocker arm pedestals run diagonally across the heads instead of straight across.  The plugs are almost straight in instead of of angled, the cam position sensor (vestigial distributor) is at the back instead of the front...the differences go on and on.

Can anyone enlighten me as to the different origins and histories of these engines?

I am actually a fan of the Vulcan V-6 engines. I have owned a few aerostars with that engine and have seen them to over 150,000 miles. You can find out their history here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Vulcan_engine

[jaybee]

Thanks Frank, and I see there's a link to the 3.8L on that same page.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Essex_V6_engine_(Canadian)#3.8

Not sure where I picked up the notion that these engines were of the same family but not even close.

[wayne petty]

one thing.....   if those are multi layer steel gaskets....

you really need to find some hylomar... spread it on both sides of the head gaskets and let the solvent evaporate for 30 minutes before setting the head gaskets on the block..


almost all ford motors use Torque to yield bolts...

i just finished doing  a 3.8 in a 97 tbird...

the torquing instructions were not very clear...  

let me walk you through the 97 RWD 3.8 instructions ...
IN  ORDER from the torque chart...

torque all head bolts to 20 foot pounds...    
torque all head bolts to 30 foot pounds.
torque all head bolts to 37 foot pounds..
in order according to the head bolt torque chart...

5,1,3,7 long bolts
6,2,4,8 short bolts..   (yours will be different...)

starting at number one in the order.(a long bolt)..  loosen it till its slack...

tighten it to 37 foot pounds with a torque wrench..
change to a 24 inch breaker bar...
turn an additional half turn exactly...   i did 2 quarter turns clocking the socket each time a quarter turn on the end of the breaker bar.. so i got the same amount of angle to turn it... 1/4 + 1/4...

now go on to the second bolt ( a short one)  loosen it... reset torque wrench to 18 foot pounds...   torque bolt to 18 foot pounds...    move socket to the breaker bar...   give additional half turn...   again i did 2 quarter turns.. clocking the socket a quarter turn on the end of the breaker bar...

on to the third bolt in order.. loosen it... reset torque wrench to 37 foot pounds.. torque bolt to 37 foot pounds...  swap socket to breaker bar...    add half a turn...

on to the number 4 bolt in order..  loosen it,,  reset the torque wrench to 18 foot pounds.. torque bolt to 18 foot pounds...   swap socket to breaker bar..  add a half turn ...

ect... ect.. ect.... ext... and you are done...  take a break .. then do the other head...

DO NOT answer phone while torquing the heads... do not take a lunch break...    do not take a bathroom break...  don't stop to talk.. don't stop to post a question...   its all or nothing..  if you mess up .. start over with new bolts if you have exceeded the 37 foot pounds on any... 20 bucks a head for felpros..  cheeper than doing it a second time when they snap....


lately i have been using a beam type torque wrench to loosen head bolts when taking them apart..  this way i know just how tight they are...  were... and why the head gasket failed...   the 3.8 had some head bolts that broke free at about 35 foot pounds.. and most of the others at about 65...   when i pulled a mazda built v6 apart.. that had been properly assembled.. but without hylomar.. i had to pull with both hands on my 24 inch breaker bar....

i also use CRC stay lube moly graphite assy lube.. on the threads and under the head of the bolt...  this does not really effect how tight the bolts are as they are only torqued to 37 foot pounds... its the exact half turn that stretches the bolts to clamp the heads....


this is just how i do them... i am not telling you to do anything other than you are.....   but i hate to do things a second time...  

hylomar is under 10 bucks a tube...

stay lube is about 8 bucks for a large tube.. 5 for a small ...

[jaybee]

Thanks Wayne.  I have the torque specs for this engine and have done torque to yield bolts before.  I've never stopped in the middle of something like head bolts anyway...just seemed like good practice to me.

I haven't used Hylomar before, though.  What product do you use?

[wayne petty]

I haven't used Hylomar before, though.  What product do you use?

got an advance auto parts near you this clipping is from their web site..

Permatex Hylomar® Universal Blue Racing Formula Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant

Part No. 85249   Warranty   

$9.89
 
Check Store availability Shipping: Item not available for delivery

This nonchlorinated gasketing and sealing compound has been specially formulated to be nonsetting and nonhardening at elevated temperatures. It's formulated to withstand rapid changes in temperature and remains flexible and tacky even at high temperatures, allowing for repeated disassembly and reassembly in high-performance applications. This no-run formula seals surface imperfections on machined flanges and is vibration resistant. Temperature range of -60°F to +500°F (-50°C to +260°C). Resists engine fluids, including water, coolant, gasoline, lubricating oils, kerosene and some refrigerants. Also possesses dust- and moisture-proofing properties.


i actually went around and bought up all the hylomar when it was discontinued by permatex a few years ago.. then do to customer demand.. they brought it back.... i think i am down to one tube left.. so i should start looking for more soon...

my cousin in washington says he gets it through ford parts... as its used on newer applications... i don't have a ford part number yet...


http://hylomarpl-32.com/Hylomar%20CatGen0707%209-9-07.pdf