Model "A" 283/4spd

[mrloboy]

I am putting a Model "A" chassis together for a roadster pickup. The customer has a '57 283 with a saginaw four speed behind it. I have the '57 bellhousing and front engine mounts. The stock mounts hang well down from the frame rails. Brackets would be clunky and unsightly. Have any of you had experience with a swap like this? The block has no provisions for side mounts. Wish it did. It would make the job a lot easier! Any suggestions what type of shifter works well in an "A"? Thanks, Rick

[enjenjo]

I would suggest a Hurst type front mount, and a conventional trans mount. It should be no problem with a 57 bell housing, as they are pretty strong.

[mrloboy]

I was wondering if the bellhousing would handle it. It does look stout. I remember hearing of numerous failures that people had when swapping in an automatic into a 55-57. I imagine that all fell into the lighter TH350 housing being the cause. Hurst style front mount, here I come! Thanks Frank. Rick

[BFS57]

Hello;
Check out the Speedway catalogue. I'v seen some mounts there that would work for this.

Bruce

[Canuck]

Rick

Check with Garry R here in Winnipeg.  I think his red roadster pickup is a 4 speed.  Been on the road for years.

I know he had problems a few years ago with a cracked bell housing.  283 with front mounts and rear mount on the tranny.

Jim C
East St Paul

[GPster]

If I remember correctly the early Vettes ('55 - '57 or maybe clear to '62) used a Hurst style mount that may have fastened between the water pump and the block. I just remember seeing one 45 years ago and was impressed how low it let the engine hang. If you're not going to use bellhousing mounts I'd trade that '57 bellhousing for a '58 to ? cast iron bellhousing.  Your old bellhousing may be of some use to a Tri 5 guy. GPster

[mrloboy]

If I remember correctly the early Vettes ('55 - '57 or maybe clear to '62) used a Hurst style mount that may have fastened between the water pump and the block. I just remember seeing one 45 years ago and was impressed how low it let the engine hang. If you're not going to use bellhousing mounts I'd trade that '57 bellhousing for a '58 to ? cast iron bellhousing.  Your old bellhousing may be of some use to a Tri 5 guy. GPster

I agree that the bellhousing should be saved for a Tri 5 project. I also believe the complete engine should go into a restoration project. The engine is complete with the correct everything included the slotted head screws in the timing chain cover and the rivetted crankshaft pulley. It even has the early Chevrolet embossed chrome valve covers with the narrow bolt pattern. Only a two brrl carb though. It is a unit the customer brought to me for the project. I might have to persuade him to upgrade to an early 327. I have a couple of those kicking around.

Thanks, Rick

[mrloboy]

Rick

Check with Garry R here in Winnipeg.  I think his red roadster pickup is a 4 speed.  Been on the road for years.

I know he had problems a few years ago with a cracked bell housing.  283 with front mounts and rear mount on the tranny.

Jim C
East St Paul

I remember the pickup from way back. I believe it was in Baldur at the first "Show & Swine" events I put on. Do you know if it was running a cast or aluminum bellhousing? I don't think I ever looked that close at the drive train. Nice ride though! Thanks, Rick

[Rrumbler]

My take on this would be to find a Hurst type front mount, and change to a bell housing from a later model, or get a Lakewood type formed steel housing.  The stock '57 cast iron housing seems pretty stout, but it was designed to have a heavy trans hanging off the back of it, not to be a "bridge" part in the scheme of things.  I know that many have been converted and used the stock CI piece, but the stresses must be different on the two different styles.  Don't like what happens when a bell housing comes apart under stress.      :?

As to a shifter, a Hurst Competition Plus is still the classic type in my mind.  If you have a flat floor, you'll likely have to fab up a mount plate of some sort to raise the shifter body up so it is at about floor level at the pivot pin, and do a little creative bending and/or welding to re-fit the rods; otherwise, you will have to make a long slot in the floor for the shifter handle to move back and forth.  If you have a trans/driveshaft tunnel, all you would probably need to do is cut a window in the side of the tunnel, and the shifter would be right there, mounted on the side of the tail shaft housing, just like it was designed to.

[tomslik]

i'm with rrumbler but i'd use one of these

http://www.quicktimeinc.com/products.html

i've got one for my rambler...they seem to be a bit smaller and definately lighter...

one other thought would be to buy a mid-plate and modify to suit...