32 5 window problem

enjenjo · November 17, 2009, 10:34:15 PM

The 32 that I am working on right now. It is an original body, repro frame. I finally got the body down on the frame where it belongs, after removing all the "stuff" that was mounted too high. And it don't fit very good. At first I though the floor was installed wrong, but now that it's there, the only problem is from the center of the rear kickup, back. By the end of the body, the frame is about 3/4" too low.

So the question is, is this common with repro frames? I have a coouple ways to fix it, but it will be up to the owner how I proceed. The frame is finish painted, so I am not sure how he will want to fix it.

GPster · November 18, 2009, 08:20:07 AM

Is the gas tank still there? Is it an original one? Maybe that repo frame was designed for a repo gas tank. I've never studied one that close but it seems the tanks have a little dome on the top of them that might use up that 3/4" when the tank sits on the frame. Just guessing. GPster

Charlie Chops 1940 · November 18, 2009, 08:28:53 AM

Seems like I read about that droop problem somewhere in the past. Thought about it over night... I guess I would consider cutting a notch near the top middle of the kickup, jacking the tailend up, welding the vee back together, and then re-boxing it.

I'm curious how you discovered the droop and quantified how much. Is there a preferred gap between the rear corners of the body and the frame rail? I have my roadster body mounted but it will have to come off a number of times yet...and it's not boxed over the klickup yet.

Charlie

enjenjo · November 18, 2009, 10:17:06 AM

QuoteI'm curious how you discovered the droop and quantified how much.

I set the body on the frame. which was a bit of a chore to begin with as there was several things setting too hign, which interfered. After removing, or relocating all of them, the body sets down nice on the frame to the center of the kickup. From there back the gap gets wider to the rear of the body. At the rearmost body mount hole, there is a gap of 3/4" between the body and frame. A shim here is no problem, however the gap between the rear of the body, and the gas tank ( a reproduction), is about 1 1/4" plus. This is with no welting between the body and frame.

I am not sure if he will run this as a high boy, or full fendered. As a high boy he can shim the tank up to the body to diguise it, cut and raise the frame as Charlie suggests, or extend the lower edge of the body down to the tank. I don't know which way he will choose.

GPster · November 18, 2009, 10:54:58 AM

I've got in my favorites plans/drawings of the '32 frame (among others). From what I see there is supposed to be 2 1/4" between the bottom of frame line and the bottom of the roll at the end of the frame. I'd send you the link but my computor expert is at a Defensive Driving Course. The course is manditory if you have to drive a county owned vehicle or maybe she's training for NASCAR. GPster

57larry · November 18, 2009, 05:46:41 PM

whose frame is it?

enjenjo · November 18, 2009, 05:51:16 PM

Quote from: "57larry"whose frame is it?

I am not sure, I was told Progressive. It is at least 10 years old, may be 20.

WZ JUNK · November 19, 2009, 06:34:55 AM

I would put the frame on a frame straightening machine and compare it to the original specification. Then have it bent back to specifications. But I have access to someone who can do this. If you know someone locally that can do this for you, I would advise you to go for it. Depending on where it is out of specsifications, this could be a quick fix. I have fixed many wrecks that were a lot more off than 3/4". If it is out somewhere near the middle, it would only require a little push to bring it back.

John

Digger · November 19, 2009, 05:35:21 PM

Go to Wescott's web site and their tech pages. There are drawings and most all of the frame specs.

enjenjo · November 19, 2009, 06:31:03 PM

I gave all the info to the owner, he is a body man, it's up to him now what we do.