Protecting bare steel

[jaybee]

In this case I don't mean cars, though.Two situations, kinda related.

First, I have a 3/16 steel plate to set into the corner of my workbench, thanks to the "Garage Layout" thread.  It is used, I think to cover a floor gap or maybe an extra heavy kick plate on a service door.  The thing is covered with a thick layer of dark brown, slightly oily stuff that's very hard.  Is this hot rolled plate with mill scale?  I ground the roughness off but not all the way through.  Should I treat it with anything to preserve?

Same question for the table on a scroll saw that rarely gets used.  I've tried wax and oil but neither prevented surface rust.  What can I use for this table?

[Harry]

Sounds like hot rolled. Cold rolled is smooth.
Why not leave it bare until it starts to rust. Then if it does, wipe it with oil.

[purplepickup]

I've had really good luck using Rust Mort (phosphoric acid) on bare metal.  I just wipe a good wet coat on and let it react with the steel for a while then wipe off the excess, leaving a film.  I stripped some fenders at least 10 years ago and wiped them with it and they are still rust free, hanging in an unheated shed.  Other bare steel things in there used to get surface rust until I treated them too.

I know it is a rust converter and not meant to be used as a protectorant but it works for me as long as the metal doesn't set out in the weather.

[jaybee]

Thanks guys.  I didn't specify where I got this plate.  My brother works for the school system and they were going to throw away, so I don't quite know where it came from but it's been around for a while.  Once I had the surface roughness knocked off I wiped it down with some oil.  I'll try some rust converter on the scroll saw, sounds like a good solution.

[paul2748]

Kroil (Google it) is supposed to be a good rust preventer.

[Canuck]

Jaybee

I would hold off on using the Rust-Mort on your saw table and keep it for the steel plate.

I tried using Rust-Mort on a table saw, knowing it is a great product (use it to protect the body of my A that has been in bare metal in the shop for way too long).  The Rust-Mort left the table of the saw with a finish that hindered the easy movement of wood across the table when cutting.  Had to take a belt sander to the table to clean it off.  Have gone back to a wipe of oil when not using.  Easily wiped off when needed.

Just my .02

Canuck

[Digger]

Something else you might want to consider depending on how big a piece of steel you have is have someone brake a couple of inches of it on a 90 and let it fit over the edge of the bench. combine that with a hammer for kind of a poor mans brake for small stuff.

[jaybee]

Easy motion on the saw table is really important, especially on a scroll saw.  Naybe I'll resand, coat thickly with oil, and see how it goes.

Good thinking to brake an end on the plate.  I know someone who's offered the use of brakes and other equipmwnt at his workplace to help with fab but I don't know if it's capable of anything that heavy.

Hmmm, that has me wondering about a way to home build a brake using the steel bench edge.

[Leon]

I found this stuff that's recommended for woodshop use since it has no silicone and is a paraffin based product.  http://www.boeshield.com/

[enjenjo]

Hmmm, that has me wondering about a way to home build a brake using the steel bench edge.

Breaking an edge on the plate would be good. Welding and angle iron to it would be better. It gives you a sharper bend.

To use the edge of the bench as a brake, just make sure the top sticks out a couple inches past the base. A second piece of angle iron clamped over the piece you want to bend will hold it in place.

A bolt on hinge will hold a third piece of angle with a handle welded to it to bend the metal. Or you can just bend it a little at a time with a mallet.

[Rrumbler]

I use carnuba wax on my saw table, and all of my woodworking surfaces of that type.  Just sand the table smooth with some 400 or finer grit on a long board, degrease it and wax it; wipe it off with a solvent cloth and re-wax it every so often.  As to the stuff on that steel plate, I think it is probably some sort of polymer coating like would be found on a kick plate or other sort of protective plating.  I would just grind it off, sand the thing flat, and wipe it down with an oil cloth from time to time.  All of the benches in our shops were covered with steel, either sheet metal, or plate, and we used to wipe them every other day or so with a solvent cloth, then an oil cloth, then a dry cloth; they never rusted, and were always easy to keep clean.