EFI FUEL PUMP

Inprimer · September 04, 2009, 07:00:31 PM

Bought a 88 Linc Continental MK 7 w/302 . Car runs well no smoke etc. has 107 K It will not accelerate, been told the Fuel pump is bad, usually happens with cars that sit for a long time. ( this is a AZ car no rust)My plans are to graft the whole running gear into my '52 Stude Land Cruizer. Now I checked with Summit, they sell a out of tank fuel pump that has to be installed lower than the tank. Its rated at 43gph and at 85 psi , designed for a multi port EFI ,I know I have to install a return line which is ez to do. Am I going about this in the correct way?? I'm used to carbs and such and this is new to me, I don't mind spending a few $$ to do the swap, I don't want to spend stupid money and find out I really wasted my time and $$. The whole car ( Linc) I have invested is $400. So if I can get the Stude on the road with all "new" running gear I'd be happy, besides, I hate 6V pos ground cars, LOL can't find any accy's for them Please leave an opinion , remark or whatever....... PS the Stude is a Cali car no rust no dents just a terrible interior which I already adressed.. thanks guys& gals Inprimer

enjenjo · September 04, 2009, 07:47:34 PM

There are a couple things that can cause that. In my experience, the fuel pump is seldom the cause, they either work, or not. In any case, if it starts and runs ok, it will be something easy.

I prefer in tank pumps, they seem to hold up better. but I have used Airtex FP206 external pumps with no problems.

Inprimer · September 04, 2009, 08:01:55 PM

Quote from: "enjenjo"There are a couple things that can cause that. In my experience, the fuel pump is seldom the cause, they either work, or not. In any case, if it starts and runs ok, it will be something easy.

I prefer in tank pumps, they seem to hold up better. but I have used Airtex FP206 external pumps with no problems.

Hey Enjenjo, we had to by pass the key, seems the switch is bad we hot wired a wire from the coil to the starter relay, now the car runs ok idles ok but by stepping on the go pedal it gets lathargic , in other words must stomp on the go pedal a few times and all of a sudden it revs to 3 or 4k w/out a problem as i said this is news to me I would like to get the motor to run decently before the switch so I can eliminate future head scrathing , in the mean time i'm at a loss , as i said the motor idles ok it will not accelerate by stepping on the go pedal ,seems to be in noman's land until something percks it up. I have a friend who is a Mustang guy does a lot of work on 302 and he swears the F/P is bad thanks for the reply, much appreciated.

enjenjo · September 05, 2009, 02:29:43 AM

I would check the throttle position sensor before any thing else. They very often go bad from setting

wayne petty · September 05, 2009, 03:25:31 AM

it runs with that kind of bypass>>>... wow... i have worked on the electronics on that one... there are several relays that should prevent it from running.. without the key on...

if you drop the plastic covers off the steering column... you can use a long screw driver and a tiny hammer to loosen the tamperproof torx screws that hold the electrical part of the ignition switch to the column.. tap the screw driver into the sides of the heads of the screws... making little notches.. then they will unscrew.. with some work..

then you can start it...

you might also want to run an KOEO test on it.. and a KOER test... before you take it apart... to verify that everything works perfectly... before you transplant it..

buy a few books on swapping them... ... you might want to find a mustang under hood to under dash harness.. as the mark 7 wiring might be really wrapped up in the main harness that circles the car... i could be totally wrong..

Inprimer · September 05, 2009, 04:31:12 AM

Wayne, thanks for your reply so far we eliminated potential vacumn leaks, it acts like there is a huge air leak in a carburated car, by backpedaling the throttle the revs eventually come up but seems starved for fuel. Put in 4 gals so we eliminated that problem,I'll try to con someone with efi knowledge,the car only runs with the key in the Start position hence let go of the key and it stops the wire bypassed the key.. * computers LOL will try your suggestions this weekend

wayne petty · September 05, 2009, 10:00:33 AM

this engine swap harness instructions from Ford motorsport... may help..

the engine harness unplugs with 2 connectors shown on page 5 figure 1 connector 14 and 15...

you need to extract from the car... everything that is on page 7.... and it is probably entangled in the main harness... that harness i think is out of stock... last time i checked... if one of the after market harness manufacturers has recreated it?

you will also need the harness from page 8... but you knew that...

i would imagine that if it is embedded in the main harness... finding a mustang harness that was not chopped off or one from a EFI pickup would also work.. the guys at the junk yard are given a cutting torch and a pair of wire cutters to work with...

my favorite yard has assigned one guy to cut out all the battery cables...

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/fms-m12071f302.pdf

here is the wiring diagram for the efi

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

there is even more info here

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/0/107/article/Installing_A_198793_Mustang_SEFI_5_Liter_V8AOD_Dri
ve_Train_into_A_61_79_F100__F250_Truck.html

there is a lot of stuff out there...

on veryuseful... be sure to check out how the ignition switch is wired..

tomslik · September 05, 2009, 10:02:57 AM

does this setup have a MAF?

2rods · September 05, 2009, 02:05:10 PM

I would check fuel pressure which could indicate pump or regulator problems.

The Paisano · September 05, 2009, 08:35:24 PM

Before you waste you money on a pump,pull the distributor cap off.If the stator is is original,it will be black in color,put your finger or small screwdriver on it.If you can push it through,its no good.Another cheap concern could be the map sensor mounted on the fireawall near the heater box.It will have a vacum line on it to measure atmospheric pressure.With it being 22 plus years old,could be anything from a mouse having a new home to a fuel or eec relay,fuel one is green and the eec is brown.

Inprimer · September 08, 2009, 08:07:56 PM

Quote from: "2rods"I would check fuel pressure which could indicate pump or regulator problems.

Update..........., since the car is not here at home, I was there a friends house this weekend, found a vacumn leak and also blasted the daylights with injector cleaner which inproved the throttle response immensely, also put on a new cap and rotor, also bought a fuel filter which I can't install yet due to the car, having air bag rides , is so low (flat)that I can't get under it yet. Plans are a trailer ride to my house, I have a lift and start with the filter then probably put in a new fuel pump. Wayne............... thanks for the fuel sites as i said want to get it running somewhat normal then remove and install into the Stude and get new wiring harness THANK ALL FOR THE SUGGESTIONS ................... Serge..... PS a friend said he has a early computer code reader which hopefully will further diagnose the problems.

wayne petty · September 09, 2009, 07:25:15 PM

by the way.... look at the air suspension compressor on the fender well... is there a fill valve on the top of the head.... if so ... pick up a quality clip on tire fill chuck... and hook up compressed air... that compressor can make over 175 psi ... so i don't think you will blow it... you can then just turn the key on and the car will hopefully come up.....

here is a link to a compressor picture less its bracket..
http://www.strutmasters.com/v/vspfiles/photos/-SMLC-88-94-CD-1-2.jpg

there are individual solenoid valves at every location... that are all wired to the level control system in the truck... as long as you don't have a blown bag... the car should come up... there is also an on off switch in the trunk

if you have to get a replacement bag... there are a few things that you should also get... a long pig tail from one of the solenoids... some of he 3/16 nylon air line.... the solenoids have diodes in them.. if you hook power up backwards... it blows the diode... i put the pig tail i got on a long pair of wires with some battery clips and a momentary pushbutton.. red for the (+) side as marked on the solenoid.... a 3/16 brass tube fitting to 1/8 or 1/4 npt so i can install a air hose connector plug..
with these 2 items i can deflate the bags in the junk yard... and reinflate them on the car...

just a tip... this does not mean that you have to do anything like this... air suspension is a mystery to many... like the new navigator 4 wheel and just rear air springs.. the bags change out in under 20 minutes each...

or one can just install replacement rear coil springs and upper rubber spring isolators... and you are done... on the full size suvs