speedy sleeve

[40cpe]

I have a pitted seal surface on an axle in the 9" rear. new seals don't stop the seep. I'm considering a speedy sleeve. I have concerns because I read some not-so-good results with them. Since it is on an axle, it will take a long pipe to install it the way the web site recommends. That leaves lots of room for error in getting it on straight. I was wondering if freezing the axle and heating the sleeve in the oven to about 400 degrees would distort or otherwise harm the sleeve. Has anybody tried it or have a better solution? As always, thanks for your thoughts.

gene

[enjenjo]

A pipe sounds like the best solution, and leaves little room for error. Make sure it is close fitting, and to use some sealer under the sleeve.

There is also a sealed axle  bearing with an Oring on the outside that was used in some applications witout a seal.

[wayne petty]

is the seal surface pitted or grooved??  

exactly what seal number are you using??? and brand...


large bearing 31 spline or small bearing 28 spline?

i have had some problems with some brands of seals that were incorrect for the application even though they were the right size for the shaft and bore

there are dozens of seal lip designs....

some with double lip seals

i don't know what year your housing is... these are for a 71 torino 9 inch...
28 spline axles
BCA/NATIONAL Part # 9569S  {Oil Seal / Nitrile / Shaft Size=1.365" Housing Bore=2.259" Outer Diameter=2.264" Width=0.435"}

31 spline axles..
BCA/NATIONAL Part # 9363S  {Oil Seal / Nitrile / Shaft Size=1.5" Housing Bore=2.26" Outer Diameter=2.264" Width=0.405"}


i have found that  sometimes the seal is not driven all the way into its bore...  i have taken to using several thick washers.. on a foot long bolt with the washers between nuts on the threaded end to drive the seals in...  sometimes grinding the outer diameter of the washers to make it fit in the bore...

if your axle is pitted... where do you drive the wear bushing from???  is it flanged on the outer end or the inner end where you can break it off??

again.. a selection of flat washers might be a good thing to have... grinding the center hole to fit tight on the axle.. so a pipe can be used to drive it... the washer face touching the new collar..

hope this helps...

[Crosley.In.AZ]

400*F  is too hot for the sleeve..

max  250*F

[40cpe]

The housing is from a '57 Ranchero/station wagon. The seal is a National 51098. That is what was in it and the parts store looked it up as the same. The seal surface is 1.5 " and slightly pitted, no groove and it's a 28 spline axle.
I installed it all the way to the seat with a 3/4 drive socket that was very close to the outside diameter of the seal.

[39deluxe]

I haven't done axles but I have done harmonic balancers. I throw the balance in the freezer overnight and then heat the sleeve in the oven. I don't remember the temperature but it was whatever the instruction sheet says. It wasn't any more than maybe 250 or so.

I was thinking about taking the balancer to work and cryo freezing it but thought that the elastomer would crumble. Anyway the sleeve slides right on with a little light tapping and once everything temperature normalizes it is on to stay. I have had no problem with the sleeve being straight as long as it slid on easy. It you let it cool and the axle warm too much to where you have to drive it on you can expect problems.

Tom

[40cpe]

I haven't done axles but I have done harmonic balancers. I throw the balance in the freezer overnight and then heat the sleeve in the oven. I don't remember the temperature but it was whatever the instruction sheet says. It wasn't any more than maybe 250 or so.

I was thinking about taking the balancer to work and cryo freezing it but thought that the elastomer would crumble. Anyway the sleeve slides right on with a little light tapping and once everything temperature normalizes it is on to stay. I have had no problem with the sleeve being straight as long as it slid on easy. It you let it cool and the axle warm too much to where you have to drive it on you can expect problems.

Tom

I tried the freeze/heat method. I had a couple of disadvantages. One is the long driver pipe is impossible to keep straight and the other is I couldn't find pipe with a ID close enough to the correct drive size. I ended up with it half driven on and the little flare on the sleeve collapsed.

I went to out local power train dealer for help. He said they had never heard of any way to repair the surface. I had him order me an axle. It is supposed to be here Monday or Tuesday.