Power top for a 46 Ford

Started by teal32, October 01, 2008, 10:25:56 PM

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teal32

A good friend wants to put a power top on his '46 Ford convert. It's always been a manual top. First, did Ford make a power top in '46? And 2nd, where would he go to find a kit that would work? I've searched the net for a power top kit and haven't had any luck. HELP!!! :?:  :(U)
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paul2748

Yes - Ford did have a power top as standard equipment as far as I know.  I have a 48 conv.  Stock, the top motor was located in the engine compartment.  

For my car, I used the stock top cylinders and a electric/hydraulic motor out of a 68 midsize Ford and located it under the rear seat.  I used the hydraulic lines out of the 68.  With adapters, the lines fit the 48 cylinders.  I have been using this for about 25 years with no problems.

Use power steering fluid or auto trans fluid .  Do not use brake fluid - if there is a rupture in the line brake fluid will ruin any paint it comes into contact with.

I am sure that any motor out of most any later model convertible will work.  Get the hoses and switch when you pull the motor.

Quote from: "teal32"A good friend wants to put a power top on his '46 Ford convert. It's always been a manual top. First, did Ford make a power top in '46? And 2nd, where would he go to find a kit that would work? I've searched the net for a power top kit and haven't had any luck. HELP!!! :?:  :(U)

enjenjo

Hydro E Lectric has all the parts you need, including cylinders and pumps.
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wayne petty

convertable top pump tips...


carry 1/4" inverted flair unions and 1/4" inverted flair plugs...    on most of the pumps newer than about 1960 these should fit..  this allows you to remove the pump... plug both sides.... and connect the lines together so the fluid can move back and forth without spilling ... it saves a ton of bleeding when you are done.. as you can fill and prime the pump before it gets to the car...     keeping the plugs screwed into the union keeps them all together...   thin orings in the bottom of the union seats lets it seal tighter with less torque required...  use viton please...   two feet of 1/4 inverted flair brake line will bend  easily into a circle that can connect to both sides of the pump...

these will also let you pull a cylinder out and plug both ends and reconnect to each other to prevent spillage...

there are also 2 different systems to power them...  

there are 2 wire pumps...  like a window motor...    reverse the polarity  on the 2 wires and the pump reverses...


there are 3 wires pumps..  these have a ground wire...  you power either wire to reverse it...  

it is complicated to build some relay logic to use a 3 wire pump in a 2 wire application...   but it can be done...

and for those with ford retractable 's  soft and hard... the pumps for these have a larger displacement... the pump rotor is larger to pump more fluid to the long stroke cylinders...   putting in a conventional  top pump will make it open and close slow.....

for those with relays that look like horn relays.(THERE NOT)..   be sure when working on them...   and when storing the car outside...      that they are waterproofed...   they always.. always catch the morning due... any rain that falls...   somebody washing the car off..    the covers always fill with water..  as there will be power in them as soon as the key goes on.. they really take a hit... and cost a bunch..  they are that special..

i don't even know hot to describe the internal workings..    2 upper contacts... separated..       2 lower contacts separated..   the swing arm has 4 contacts...  that jump either the upper or lower pairs.. i am almost sure that  the arm has a circuit on it also...  but don't quote me on that...

relay logic...   i replaced the 7 relays with  full sized industrial relays.. double pole .. double throw...  those even at 30 amps.. were not strong enough to power the motors.  the flexable braid in them was burning.. i even took them apart and put in thicker braid...  .. so i drove 4 70 amp cube relays with the lesser ones...  that all worked great... remember this is not my car...  and it had been in process for 10 years...   he was so excited that it was finally working...   and working well..  that he cycled it open and closed... a bunch of times...  till the soldier on the commutator connections melted...  

while i had it apart... he cleaned the work bench..  put all the parts in a bucket...    you know ... it almost never rains here in southern california...  i felt it was safe on the work bench.. out of the rain...   he moved it out of the way when it started raining to make room for something else..

he was the one with the boat...   and that had a problem with water on the inside also...   in fact.. you can see the boat on google maps...  sitting on the bottom...

i sure hope this helps... someone....


waynep at  servsite   com for those who have more questions.. off the thread...