Power Window wiring

timkins · August 22, 2008, 10:20:49 AM

I took the switches out of the doors when I reupholstered the interior and mounted them under the dash and now the windows go up very sloooowly. I know I need them. Any suggestions on wiring size and location of the relays and the proper wiring for them.

crdnblu · August 22, 2008, 10:58:24 AM

Suggestion: B/4 you chase the wiring & consider redoing it, I'd take the newly upholstered door panels off to see if the problem persists. There COULD BE interference caused by the panels, & not a wiring issue.

timkins · August 22, 2008, 11:23:37 AM

It did it before I put the panels back on the doors so I do not believe that is causing the problem. I believe I used too small od wire size to reinstall the switches. It is 12 or 14 gauge and I think this is to small and also no relays.

crdnblu · August 22, 2008, 11:56:28 AM

Most of the after-market power window kits use 14-16 gauge wiring to the switches, with a control module that has built-in relays, so if this is your style, the wiring should be of adequate gauge. Possibly, the next step would be to check your grounds, making sure that they are solid. Then look for frayed or kinked 12 volt wiring in the circuit(s), plus double-check all connections & crimps.
Lastly, if these items all check out good, have someone run the windows through their cycle while you check the wiring for excess heat which would be a good indicator of a POSSIBLE need for heavier gauge wiring.

rooster · August 22, 2008, 11:57:42 AM

Quote from: "timkins"It did it before I put the panels back on the doors so I do not believe that is causing the problem. I believe I used too small od wire size to reinstall the switches. It is 12 or 14 gauge and I think this is to small and also no relays.

If your not using relays and using small wire to power the switchs and window moters you could burn them up! YOU DO NOT WANT THAT!!!!!!!!!

Are you using orignal switches?

wayne petty · August 22, 2008, 01:43:18 PM

to use relays and make it much simpler...

use a dual relay socket .... they are wired to operate the windows .... or door locks...

you do have to use 5 pin relays with them...

i just used my last one.... so i cannot send an image of the jumpers on the pigtail side... these are available at most places that sell electronics or car alarms... for under 5 bucks..
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/SRLY-4/DUAL-SOCKET-FOR-AUTO-RELAY/-/1.html

you will also need relays like this to plug in..

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/RLY-351/12V-SPDT-30-AMP-AUTOMOTIVE-RELAY/-/1.html

you will need one fore each window motor

crdnblu · August 22, 2008, 04:13:59 PM

I should have asked; do you have an aftermarket power window kit with a module, an original "stock" power window installation, or your own design wiring application? Also, what type of vehicle?

38HAULR · August 23, 2008, 04:45:35 AM

Quick test to seperate mechanical or electric issue, disconnect the existing wiring from the motor and direct connect to 12v Battery, this qiuck test will have the problem source tagged ,either mechanical drag or low volts due to voltage drop via wiring.........Frank.

timkins · August 23, 2008, 08:40:50 AM

It is an aftermarket kit installed in a 32 Ford 2 dr sedan. It is a kit supplied from "Specialty Power Windows" and the motors are BOSCH. The entire kit was in the car when I purchased it. The passenger window was always slow and about 1 1/2 years ago I found and purchased another motor thinking the original was on its last legs, WRONG. The new motor acted the same way very sloooow. It was originally installed with late model Chevy switches but there was no relays with the switches. I moved the switches out of the door and went with aftermarket switches installed on the dash with no relays.

crdnblu · August 23, 2008, 09:08:31 AM

This might help: The complete Specialty Power Window PDF installation instructions & wiring diagrams, including testing/trouble-shooting procedures.

http://www.specialtypowerwindows.com/docs/PWLINSTRUCTIONS.pdf

58 Yeoman · August 23, 2008, 09:59:37 AM

Could the window be binding in the track?

timkins · August 24, 2008, 09:21:00 AM

I am sure the window is not binding in the track because when I disconnect the power window hardware the window has a tendency to fall to the bottom of the track unimpeded.
Thanks to CRDNBLU for the install manual, I have already started to use the troubleshooting guide that was in there.