Look at this

[Dave]

Check out the seller here.. Id like to have this table too.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2480715352&category=63696
Dave

[Bob Paulin]

Check out the seller here.. Id like to have this table too.

Dave

He's got a reserve of $950.00 on that thing!!!

I use an old John Bean two-wheel alignment rack that I bought out of the local vocational center for $300.00

It is set up perfectly level (as any good alignment machine is), and I have fabricated ties to set it square when needed. You can make fixtures and drill and tap holes in the runway to fit different frames and components, or to bolt things down.

In addition to being a good, level chassis jig to which I can tie a chassis in order to keep things from moving, I can also use it as a level, race car setup platform. My scales fit perfectly on the runways, and I can crawl around under the car while it sits on the scales or the roll-off boxes, instead of jacking it up to make a change, then re-setting the scales.

And - if you can imagine this - it still functions as an actual front-end alignment machine.

Sure, I still have to back the IRS cars on like we did in the old days with the Vettes and Jaguars, but I've done four-wheel race car alignments with string for 40+ years, so it's really no problem.

With the automotive service industry's switch to computerized, four-wheel setups, you ought to be able to find one of these puppies locally for cheap money.

Mine came with the air jacks and turntables. If you've priced turntables lately, you know that you'll sink more than $300 into generic ones - and I have "genuine" John Bean turntables. (I already had the caster/camber guages.)


Oh, yeah! For us "no-longer-youthful" guys, it places the chassis at approximately 24-inches off the shop floor. Not much bending to weld or kneeling on the old arthritic knees. I can even sit on my creeper/seat and roll around the outside of it all.

And unlike a surface plate-type setup, I can crawl around inside the front and rear sections of the chassis to work on suspension pickup points, etc.

I love it!

I'm not cheap! I just like to use my dollars in creative ways.

Bob Paulin

[sirstude]

Hi all,

Wonder why Fink is having a garage sale?

On the frame table side of things, mine is made of an old hoist top.  The real old hoists were made of 2 15' or so long "I" beams with the cylinder mount in the middle.  The 2 beams ended up about 3 feet apart.  These rails were welded to an old rear end on one end and then adjustable mounts on the other end.  You can drag it around the shop (or back to my buddy's yard for storate) fairly easly.  It is heavy enough that when you get it leveled it stays that way.  I built both the Studebaker and Oldsmobile frames on it.  It is also about 2 feet off the ground.

Anyone else out there have a frame table?

Doug

[Charlie Chops 1940]

I saw that one on eBay...too expensive and too far away. Jack (Phat Rat) and I are going to be building one a jig later this summer to do a couple duece frames - one for his '31 roadster and one for my '32. Not a bad idea to hold one end up with a rear end - about the right work heigth as noted. Maybe a simple wagon type axle for the front. He bought an early 50's flat bed ford truck which we hope will provide the main beams. We're looking to keep it cheap...and simple.

Charlie