? for late C/K pickup or Tahoe owners

Started by jaybee, November 09, 2007, 05:13:59 PM

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jaybee

If anyone with a late GM 2wd pickup, Tahoe, or the like could do me a favor I'd be most appreciative.  If you're planning to pull a front wheel for some reason or would be willing to do so I'm interested in the horizontal distance from the caliper bracket mounting face to the back side of the rotor.  Also, does the brake torque all transfer through the caliper bolts or does the caliper "lean on" the bracket to help take the load off the bolts?
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. Eric Hoffer  (1902 - 1983)

jaybee

I guess I should have asked one more dimension as well, and that's the horizontal distance from the mounting face where the caliper bolts seat to the backside of the disk.
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. Eric Hoffer  (1902 - 1983)

enjenjo

What are you doing? Is this for an adaptation? If so, I can give you some pointers.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

jaybee

Thanks for asking.  My intent is to use C4 or C5 Corvette rotors with truck calipers over 61-68 B body hubs on my 57 to get roller bearing hubs and 13" rotors without sending a big check to Wilwood or increasing the front track width as the common Chevelle rotors do.
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. Eric Hoffer  (1902 - 1983)

enjenjo

Ok, kind of what I thought. I've done a similar swap using C3 rear rotors.

First get the rotor mounted on the hub, and mount that to a spindle. this is what you have to fit the caliper to. I use a new brake pad on the inside of the caliper, and a shim about .060 between the pad and rotor. Clamp the whole mess together, and build your bracket to that.

I don't know how the late truck calipers are mounted, but the 2000 and newer full size cars had an intermediate bracket between the spindle and caliper. If you could use one of those, it would be just a simple plate bracket to hold the intermediate bracket in place on the spindle.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

jaybee

Thanks for the tip, that'll come in real handy.  I'm pretty optimistic about how this can work because C4 and C5 rotors have different "hat heights" and A and B body hubs position the wheels at different track widths.  With 4 different possible combinations of parts hopefully I can get real close to a simple, flat bracket with maybe some shimming to make it perfect.  My preference is for the B body hub if I can make it work. The A body hub has the wheel mounting surface about 3/4" farther out on the spindle while the B body hub gives a stock track width.  True I could make up the difference with wheel backspacing but that'll probably limit my wheel choices.
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. Eric Hoffer  (1902 - 1983)