Whew, my frame is done.

[48builder]

After an all-day thrash yesterday, my frame is fixed. We cut the front clip off just in front of the cowl mounting point. I had a piece of tubing that fit right inside the '48's frame. We welded that in and then put more boxing plates on the outside. I set the front clip so that the passenger frame horn was level, leveled it side to side, and then pulled it down with all-thread so that the lower control arms were even with the crossmember. Measured everything about 15 times and then welded it all solid.  We were off on the fornt left to right back measurement by 1/16", but I decided that wasn't worth worrying about. The wheelbase is exactly 144.5" on each side. The frame just looks better now. Before, the front frame horn was kicked up quite a bit. I know that wasn't right. Plus, my tranny crossmember was only about 3.5 inches from the road, and I think that would have just a bit too low.

Now, if I can just get the lower control arm bolts out. Is there a secret to that? I'm thinking I will just cut them with my sawzall and use new ones.

Thanks for all the tips with this project. I'm glad I decided to fix it.

Walt

[Dave]

Looks good walt.. Ill bet you are happy that its done and done right this time..
Dave

[freddrew]

Congratulations on a job well done!!!  Would it be possible to take some pictures and post them of the frame to clip connections.  Closeups of the top, inside and outside of the joints would be great.  I have yet to do mine.

Thanks Fred

[48builder]

Congratulations on a job well done!!!  Would it be possible to take some pictures and post them of the frame to clip connections.  Closeups of the top, inside and outside of the joints would be great.  I have yet to do mine.

Thanks Fred

Sure. Give me a couple days. I just sandblasted it and have it all wrapped up in a tarp. It is supposed to rain for the next couple days.

Walt

[dragrcr50]

pretty long wheelbase, is it a limo of some sort???

[48builder]

pretty long wheelbase, is it a limo of some sort???

Actually, it is a 48 Chevy sedan that has been shortened by 2-3/16". I cut that much out just behind the B-pillar. The wheelbase is now 114.5 inches.

Walt

[wayne petty]

to get the lower control arm bolts out.

i take it that you are going to change the bushings?

since the car is not going to be driven. you can remove the nuts and spray wd40 in that hole...and let it sit a day or two.

the spring really needs to be compressed to get them out...with the spring compressor through the shock hole and the bottom hooks  under the 2 coil up from the bottom and tons of thread left sticking out through the bottom of the lower arm. tighten the compressor and then the lower arm i will be free. to remove the rest of the suspention. one does want to pull the cotter pins and back the nuts loose but not off to stop a complete spring powered  dissassembly (BOING!!!) knock the ball joint tapers loose and then compress the spring. everything a can then be dissassembled.. spring compressors can be rented along with ball joint presses(big beafy C clamp type, one also need a 18"to 24 inch breaker bar to seat the ball joints with the press).


there are tons of differnt ways to do this...

one a might also purchase 4 new upper control arm studs from gm to mount the upper control arm shaft...

[wayne petty]

if anyone plans on changing lower contol arm bushings.. there are a few tips...


one needs to cut some spacers to fit between the folds of the lower arm so you dont compress/crush it driving the old bushing out and the new one in.

half an hour of fabbing will save hours later...

with these spacers one can drive lower control arm bushings out with all-thread and big sockets and stacks of flat washers..
i have even done them without removing the lower arm from the car.. i did have to compress the spring..

warning.. springs and ball joint press componants can sometimes escape the stack... i've had springs fly past.. got a glancing blow to the temple by 4 pounds of steel tooling i machined... it hit a wall 30 feet away 15 feet up... 1/16" more and i might not be here.. be care full... if the stack looks crooked.. reset it...start again..

[48builder]

Congratulations on a job well done!!!  Would it be possible to take some pictures and post them of the frame to clip connections.  Closeups of the top, inside and outside of the joints would be great.  I have yet to do mine.

Thanks Fred

Here's a couple pics. I closely followed enjenjo's article. His idea of putting 1/8" plate vertically between the clip and your frame gives added strength. I used a little heavier than 1/8 for my boxing plates, and also put in some plug welds on the plates on the side of the frame. I continued the boxing plates a good 5-6" up onto the frame of the clip. In these pics you can see some additional plates behind the larger ons. Thse are where I screwed up and had to lengthen the frame 1.5 ".  HAHA. Make sure you measure 10 times before cutting. :oops:

[freddrew]

Thankyou  for the pics.  Your frame looks to be good and solid.  I'm trying to learn from everyone so that my clipping will go smooth.  If not, I'll have to cut, correct and weld again.  

Thanks Fred