Bleeding Wilwood Discs Pt 2

Started by seadog, July 23, 2007, 10:09:49 PM

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seadog

This is a continuation of my earlier post re Wilwood 4 wheel discs on a Deuce chassis, using a Wilwood dual chamber aluminum m/c.   The lines are run, no leaks anywhere, and I have opened the top two bleed screws on each caliper and bled the lines until no bubbles are present.  The brakes work, BUT I have only one inch of pedal travel from full off to full lock.  Ths doesn't seem right to me.  Is it normal for the pedal to have this small amount of travel from full off to full on?

34ford

Yes, that would be a good sign. If it is a hard pedal. I have that type of system on my 34 with a corvette 4 wheel disc master and that's about what I have. Just got mine on the road about 2 weeks ago and it stops great. I did go thru and re-bleed them to see if any air worked it way to the top after about 120 miles and had a small bubble in on. I also cracked open the bottom ones and let some fluid out there and had some dirty fluid come out of a couple of the bottom ones. It cleared out quick and just looked like there was a grey tint to the fluid.

bob

Dave

Quote from: "seadog"This is a continuation of my earlier post re Wilwood 4 wheel discs on a Deuce chassis, using a Wilwood dual chamber aluminum m/c.   The lines are run, no leaks anywhere, and I have opened the top two bleed screws on each caliper and bled the lines until no bubbles are present.  The brakes work, BUT I have only one inch of pedal travel from full off to full lock.  Ths doesn't seem right to me.  Is it normal for the pedal to have this small amount of travel from full off to full on?

My coupe i just sold had 4 wheel disks gm front fors svo rear 2 wilwood rpv's and i was atill running the disk drum m/c after i changed to rear disks and mine was rock hard and hardly any travel also. Your lucky day if your pedal is that hard..
Dave :!:  :arrow:  :wink:

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