Electric Fan.....

[Ed ke6bnl]

I have an adjustable thermostat on mine. I think I bought it from Yogi's. It has a remote bulb sensor. It was suppose to be installed in the upper radiator hose but I slid it between the fins, at the top of the radiator. It was a kit and included the relay. Works great.
The advantage of the thermostat is that the fan does not run going down the highway.
 I have a Griffon radiator that has a bung in the lower tank for a thermostat. It does not work worth a darn.

I have the griffon rad. with the bung and a preset stat that seems to work perfect and repeatable from watching the manual temerature stat and with a lazer temp sensor.  Might be worth a try with another thermostat sensor??  Ed ke6bnl

[Mikej]

I have an adjustable thermostat on mine. I think I bought it from Yogi's. It has a remote bulb sensor. It was suppose to be installed in the upper radiator hose but I slid it between the fins, at the top of the radiator. It was a kit and included the relay. Works great.
The advantage of the thermostat is that the fan does not run going down the highway.
 I have a Griffon radiator that has a bung in the lower tank for a thermostat. It does not work worth a darn.

I have the griffon rad. with the bung and a preset stat that seems to work perfect and repeatable from watching the manual temerature stat and with a lazer temp sensor.  Might be worth a try with another thermostat sensor??  Ed ke6bnl

[Mikej]

I have an adjustable thermostat on mine. I think I bought it from Yogi's. It has a remote bulb sensor. It was suppose to be installed in the upper radiator hose but I slid it between the fins, at the top of the radiator. It was a kit and included the relay. Works great.
The advantage of the thermostat is that the fan does not run going down the highway.
 I have a Griffon radiator that has a bung in the lower tank for a thermostat. It does not work worth a darn.

I have the griffon rad. with the bung and a preset stat that seems to work perfect and repeatable from watching the manual temerature stat and with a lazer temp sensor.  Might be worth a try with another thermostat sensor??  Ed ke6bnl

The problem I was having is that the engine temp. was getting up to 230 before the fan was coming on with the thermostat in the lower part of the radiator. It was running a 10" pusher fan. It also had a 13" flex fan. Since than I have removed the flex fan and installed a 16" Spal. It has worked better for me sensing the water temp closer to the top radiator hose. I have the fan come on at 210 and off at 205.

[Ed ke6bnl]

I have an adjustable thermostat on mine. I think I bought it from Yogi's. It has a remote bulb sensor. It was suppose to be installed in the upper radiator hose but I slid it between the fins, at the top of the radiator. It was a kit and included the relay. Works great.
The advantage of the thermostat is that the fan does not run going down the highway.
 I have a Griffon radiator that has a bung in the lower tank for a thermostat. It does not work worth a darn.

I have the griffon rad. with the bung and a preset stat that seems to work perfect and repeatable from watching the manual temerature stat and with a lazer temp sensor.  Might be worth a try with another thermostat sensor??  Ed ke6bnl

The problem I was having is that the engine temp. was getting up to 230 before the fan was coming on with the thermostat in the lower part of the radiator. It was running a 10" pusher fan. It also had a 13" flex fan. Since than I have removed the flex fan and installed a 16" Spal. It has worked better for me sensing the water temp closer to the top radiator hose. I have the fan come on at 210 and off at 205.

I failed to mention that I an running a spal unit that has 2 11" spall fans and the housing has rubber flappers that will exhaust the extra air pressure while on the highway and the fans are not needed.  2700 cfm claimed and 27 amps when both are running. These are puller fans.  85degrees yesterday and they never have run more then a minute and drop temp from 190 to the lower set point which I don't recall what the set point is.  Ed ke6bnl

[C9]

I'm wondering what they think is protecting the fan and circuit if the fuse is in the ground side of the circuit.
Other than whatever heavier duty fuse/fuse link/circuit breaker is upstream of the whole thing.

If the motor shorts - for example - the current is running through the circuit to the motor and through the motor to ground.
When is the ground side ever going to see sufficient current to blow the fuse since the current is going to ground ahead of the fuse?

I'd bet the instructions say that cuz the starting current is high enough to pop the fuse in some cases and that was a quick and dirty fix.

Regardless, a fuse in the ground side ain't gonna help much.

[1FATGMC]

I wonder if they mean to say put the fuse on the hot side and put the switch on the ground side if the fan isn't grounded.

c ya, Sum

[Sean]

It showed three different ways to wire it, I might have been looking at the wrong picture.

I re-wired it yesterday anyway, with the fuse on the supply side of the fan this time. I also put an illuminated toggle switch in the dash for now. It doesn't need the fan on if i'm running down the road. The only time it gets hot is if I set and idle for more than five minutes with the fan off.

Once my relay gets here, i'll try wiring in one of those Chrysler sending units. I bought one for my wifes Lebaron a couple years ago and never used it because it turned out to be the fan that was bad. Now all I have to do is figure out where I hid it...

[model a vette]

I've been running the Chryler minivan fan switch module for about a year. I wired it to the ground side of the relay. That way it grounds the wire that switches the relay on. The temp it is set for cuts the fan on at about 185 and back off at 170. A little low but I prefer that. There are some others that work at a higher temp. I wired the relay with a fusable link in the large 12volt supply wire.
In my old setup I had a glass fuse in the ground side. The high current, of the fan, "desoldered" the fuse without blowing it. Took a couple of extra minutes to find that problem at Louisville one year!

[Dirk35]

Sean, FWIW, I just boughht a 91 Firebird has two small fans on the radiator. One kicks on at about 180, the other (I thought it was broken cause It wasnt warm enough outside to even get the car that hot) wont kick on until 220-230. My brother reports that his Vette is the same way. I personally dont liek for a vehicle to get that warm, but I guess if Chevy thinks its ok, I wont worry about it.

Im waiting till we get the 110 temp weather to see how it all works.

[Sean]

I have been told that these newer engines are supposed to run that hot, but I wonder if that is still the case when they are running without the Computers and Fuel injection...

[Fat Cat]

I have been told that these newer engines are supposed to run that hot, but I wonder if that is still the case when they are running without the Computers and Fuel injection...

In many cases it helps to have the computers and the EFI. But it also has to do with the gas formulations that they are using now. They are designed for engine that run hotter. Some of the new cars run in the 230-240 range on the water temp. It is setup that way for emissions. The hotter you get the engine the hotter the cat runs so the more complete the fuel burn so therefore less exhaust emissions.

They are working on engine cooling designs that will allow pressurized coolant in the 30psi range that will allow it to get up into the 250 degree range.