Frame kick up with narrowing of frame

[Crosley.In.AZ]

On my Morris chassis... I drew up a crude illustration of what I need to cypher on.

the front section at the cross member (under the engine) the chassis tubes will be about 17 inches wide (outside to outside) for the narrow track width I need

Behind that I want the chassis tubes to be 32 inches wide (outside to outside) for tranny , exhaust , etc to run through.

There needs to be a 4 inch kick up in there too. The kick up would be in the area at the foot wells, so i can not have a long kick-up distance.

It seems that I will need a compound angle from the 32" wide section the 17" section and include the narrowing that happens.

Strength is a not large concern in the area since there will be a roll cage with down tubes through the firewall to the front of the chassis to triangulate for added strength.

Mayb keep it simple.... tubes at right angles to narrow and for the kick up.  Then add tubes for triangulation for strength?  Then with all tied into the roll cage, it should be plenty strong.

:?

[tomslik]

On my Morris chassis... I drew up a crude illustration of what I need to cypher on.

the front section at the cross member (under the engine) the chassis tubes will be about 17 inches wide (outside to outside) for the narrow track width I need

Behind that I want the chassis tubes to be 32 inches wide (outside to outside) for tranny , exhaust , etc to run through.

There needs to be a 4 inch kick up in there too. The kick up would be in the area at the foot wells, so i can not have a long kick-up distance.

It seems that I will need a compound angle from the 32" wide section the 17" section and include the narrowing that happens.


i think that'd be 1st choice, at least it'd look kinda neat BUT i don't see why you cant do it the other way besides adding extra weight(not much)

Strength is a not large concern in the area since there will be a roll cage with down tubes through the firewall to the front of the chassis to triangulate for added strength.

Mayb keep it simple.... tubes at right angles to narrow and for the kick up.  Then add tubes for triangulation for strength?  Then with all tied into the roll cage, it should be plenty strong.

:?

cros, you doin' the cage?

[Crosley.In.AZ]

cros, you doin' the cage?

hi tom,

thanks for your comments.

I bought a chassis & cage kit from Jegs for the Morris.  The tubes actually are bent well and fit in the Morris body shell.

the rear chassi tubes for 'up & over' the rear diff are poorly bent 2x3 material.  They have kinks(lumps) in the curves  and are not exackly straight ( a wiggle) in the metal front to back...... that make sense?

[tomslik]

cros, you doin' the cage?

hi tom,

thanks for your comments.

I bought a chassis & cage kit from Jegs for the Morris.  The tubes actually are bent well and fit in the Morris body shell.

the rear chassi tubes for 'up & over' the rear diff are poorly bent 2x3 material.  They have kinks(lumps) in the curves  and are not exackly straight ( a wiggle) in the metal front to back...... that make sense?

like they won't lay flat on the floor?
it'd be kinda ugly but i assume you're gonna use a four link or ladders, it shoudn't make any difference other than body mounts.
not quite sure what you're doing yet, i guess(or maybe i'm not understanding the problem)

[enjenjo]

If I was doing this, I would fab sections out of flat steel, welded into a box, to eliminate any sharp bends. In other words the sides of the box would be curved in at the front, and the top and bottom would curve up at the front.

[Crosley.In.AZ]

If I was doing this, I would fab sections out of flat steel, welded into a box, to eliminate any sharp bends. In other words the sides of the box would be curved in at the front, and the top and bottom would curve up at the front.

Kinda what I have been rolling around in my head for a solution..... get the 4 sections of tubes set in place & welded to the frame fixture. Then fab up some templates of the flat steel needed.


photos show the 2x3 tubes bent for the over the rear end deal


:?:

[tomslik]

If I was doing this, I would fab sections out of flat steel, welded into a box, to eliminate any sharp bends. In other words the sides of the box would be curved in at the front, and the top and bottom would curve up at the front.

Kinda what I have been rolling around in my head for a solution..... get the 4 sections of tubes set in place & welded to the frame fixture. Then fab up some templates of the flat steel needed.


photos show the 2x3 tubes bent for the over the rear end deal


:?:

got it!
how about cutting out the offending waves and laying in some plate?
might even possibly shrink the sides and not have to replace that part...

show car?
racer?
somewhere in between?

[Crosley.In.AZ]

got it!
how about cutting out the offending waves and laying in some plate?
might even possibly shrink the sides and not have to replace that part...

show car?
racer?
somewhere in between?

Morris is gonna be my last really fast street car.  Will look good from 15 - 20 feet, mayb less.  

Show car?  Here is car!

[tomslik]

got it!
how about cutting out the offending waves and laying in some plate?
might even possibly shrink the sides and not have to replace that part...

show car?
racer?
somewhere in between?

Morris is gonna be my last really fast street car.  Will look good from 15 - 20 feet, mayb less.  

Show car?  Here is car!

that bein' the case, is it worth worrying about?
what kinda times you shooting for?

[Crosley.In.AZ]

got it!
how about cutting out the offending waves and laying in some plate?
might even possibly shrink the sides and not have to replace that part...

show car?
racer?
somewhere in between?

Morris is gonna be my last really fast street car.  Will look good from 15 - 20 feet, mayb less.  

Show car?  Here is car!

that bein' the case, is it worth worrying about?
what kinda times you shooting for?

A 9 second street car will work for me.

[tomslik]

got it!
how about cutting out the offending waves and laying in some plate?
might even possibly shrink the sides and not have to replace that part...

show car?
racer?
somewhere in between?

Morris is gonna be my last really fast street car.  Will look good from 15 - 20 feet, mayb less.  

Show car?  Here is car!

that bein' the case, is it worth worrying about?
what kinda times you shooting for?

A 9 second street car will work for me.

what's the rest of the plan?
there used to be a morris running around here (denver area) very similar to the style you're building, had a small block in it, running low 10's i heard

[Glen]

Tony, if you find you need another piece of bent tubing.  A friend has a shop behind Pyle's PPG store that is making roll bars, cages, tube bumpers etc. for those Rhyno's.  He also makes wake board racks for boats out of aluminum.

He could bend anything and notch it for you.

When we did the stub on my Buick we went back and plated the joint section with 11 Gauge steel bending and tacking it to the frame to make a nice transition.  after welding and grinding it looked nice.