Trying to put something small into a big hole.

[GPster]

Years agoI built motor mounts an the Jeepster frame for a SBC. I even recessed the firewall (old refrigerater door, wanted to save my wheelbarrow for a "Grill Shell"). Well with the 4.3 liter V6 is in place with a short water pump on it the HEI distributor is 6" ahead of the firewall recess, the fan blade will be nowhere near the radiator,the oil filter will require pulling the engine to change, The studs on the left exhaust manifold are place in such a way to surround the steering universal joint (whatever it will be) and the oil pan sits on top of the cross/steer steering arm. Things might be better with the engine moved back 3 7/16" (which is the space between the holes on  engine mounts. Now, I can design and build plates to reposition the block mounts but I'm out of 1/4" x 4" strap iron and such a move will put the right mount mostly over the gas pump opening on the block ( the engine is an '85 Z block and had a fuel pump and I plan on carburating). Now S10 V8 conversion kits I've seen us a pair of trapizoid shaped plates on the block to do some of this block/mount moving. Anyone know the amount of moving they allow? Most anything other than 3 7/16" is going to require me coming up with a counter sinking bit and allen head counter sunk bolts Just trying to narrow this down to a buy-and-build or a buy-what's-already-built situation and I don't know what I'm going to do about a fuel pump until I get this thing closer in place and see how many more problems I've created. I've thought about taking up drinking and deer hunting but those people still find time to do something. GPster

[enjenjo]

The S10 conversion mounts I make move it about 2", I don't remember exactly.

[msuguydon]

When I read the title of this thread I thought I would be reading a question surrounding the sex life of most married American men.  :mrgreen:

[Dave]

. I've thought about taking up drinking and deer hunting but those people still find time to do something. GPster

oh boy I almost choked on my peANUTS AND GIN AND TONIC I JUST MADE ...here we go with that dam caps lock again :!:  Yes we do get sumpin done :!:  Ive got the steering column mocked up (actually ive got a real column) and now ive just got to do fiberglass work. I think its gonna be all right. Im fooling around with one ram horn manifold. I need another for the passenger side but looks like im gonna use the newer angle style for the drivers side and I just happened to have one in stock :!: Now,,,, as far as your motor mount dealie :?: I got no idea im too busy drinking ,hunting,and building a roadster. But if you want me too ill think about it for you while im hunting.. Gotta go im out of pistachios (spelling)
Dave :!:  

[enjenjo]

Most anything other than 3 7/16" is going to require me coming up with a counter sinking bit and allen head counter sunk bolts

You can regrind the tip of a 3/4" drill bit to countersink 3/8" allen bolts. and most hardware stores carry the bolts in stock now.

[Ed ke6bnl]

The S10 conversion mounts I make move it about 2", I don't remember exactly.

are these designed to move the motor forward 2" will bed doing a 350 ins an s10 frame and an 53 chevy body soon. thanksED

[enjenjo]

As I recall, they move the mount forward, and the engine back. These plates fit under the frame mount. I've made a bunch of these over the last 20 years, but haven't used them on one of my builds. They have been used on a bunch of other ones though.

[Normspeed]

Yeah, what they said.

[model a vette]

GPster-
I would think that the mounts that are made to put a V8 in place of a 4.3, in an S10, would move your 4.3 back the distance that is the difference between a V8 and the 4.3.
That amount should be just over 4" (the bore spacing). I tried to determine the distance by looking at the block dimensions in a Chevy Performance manual. As best as I can tell it is 4.4 inches.