Alternative to sandblasting ???

[Dave]

Ok kids . I need to clean up the roadster frame. Ive got a 4 1/2 inch and about a 9 inch pair of grinders. Is there a good wheel to remove rust made for any of these? The frame and the rearend mostly have surface rust on em but the boxing plates in the frame look like they could be hot rolled and need the scale or whatever it is removed to be really clean. I did the coupe before paint with a die grinder and wire brushed around the welds for the cross members and da and hand sanding but this is gonna be a little more work. Just looking for another option rather than carting the thing all over town to get it blasted. First i gotta find a blaster in the area?
Dave

[Crosley.In.AZ]

take it to the powder coater...... and it's done.

[phat46]

Ok kids . I need to clean up the roadster frame. Ive got a 4 1/2 inch and about a 9 inch pair of grinders. Is there a good wheel to remove rust made for any of these? The frame and the rearend mostly have surface rust on em but the boxing plates in the frame look like they could be hot rolled and need the scale or whatever it is removed to be really clean. I did the coupe before paint with a die grinder and wire brushed around the welds for the cross members and da and hand sanding but this is gonna be a little more work. Just looking for another option rather than carting the thing all over town to get it blasted. First i gotta find a blaster in the area?
Dave

I ilke the twisted/braided wire wheels for the 4 1/2" grinders. Seem to work well and last quite a while.

[Dave]

take it to the powder coater...... and it's done.

Ya but i really need to so sumpin where i added the  boxing plates that werent there ? I didnt totally finish the welds cause i figured id just add a little mud and i was gonna mud all the cross member welds on this one also. I can afford to spend a little more time to make it pretty for sale! I just came in from the garage and i figured out what i didnt like on the rear of the frame. i moved the horns around a bit and took some measurements and I like it now :!: I got a couple measurements on the distance on the rear and if im right im within the 1/16 tolerance they supposedly have. I dont have a rear spreader bar and the coupe is at grandmas so i dont know the exact measurement . I may have to drive down there later and check it.
Im calling tonite on another 350. this one is rebuilt with about 5k on it. Its a real 350 too.and its got a left side dip stick. Bout and hour os so from here .
Dave

[Crosley.In.AZ]

take it to the powder coater...... and it's done.

Ya but i really need to so sumpin where i added the  boxing plates that werent there ? I didnt totally finish the welds cause i figured id just add a little mud and i was gonna mud all the cross member welds on this one also. I can afford to spend a little more time to make it pretty for sale! I just came in from the garage and i figured out what i didnt like on the rear of the frame. i moved the horns around a bit and took some measurements and I like it now :!: I got a couple measurements on the distance on the rear and if im right im within the 1/16 tolerance they supposedly have. I dont have a rear spreader bar and the coupe is at grandmas so i dont know the exact measurement . I may have to drive down there later and check it.
Im calling tonite on another 350. this one is rebuilt with about 5k on it. Its a real 350 too.and its got a left side dip stick. Bout and hour os so from here .
Dave

just cut and fit the plates really nice........ TIG them in with super quality good looking welds.

then powder coat it.


then yer done

[Charlie Chops 1940]

Dave,

I think you cam pull a print on the Wescott website.

At any rate, the rear rails are 40" outside, the tank holes are 38" on center. Spreader bar is 39.5" and there is a stiffener 1/8" thick that goes between the bar and the frame rail on each end.

Just happed to have the dimensions handy since I setting up my frame jig.

Charlie

[Dave]

Dave,

I think you cam pull a print on the Wescott website.

At any rate, the rear rails are 40" outside, the tank holes are 38" on center. Spreader bar is 39.5" and there is a stiffener 1/8" thick that goes between the bar and the frame rail on each end.

Just happed to have the dimensions handy since I setting up my frame jig.

Charlie

I didnt have the stiffener figured in though. and the frame can be done without it. I still got room though cause i figured 40 to 40 1/16 .

Charlie thats where i got my dimensions. Ive got a wescotts catalog . I got it quite a few years ago at louisville . I walked up and grabbed it and stuck in my bag and sue said hey ya gotta pay for them and I told her let em kick my aZZ for it.. If they wanna sell stuff it should be free and it was      
Dave

Thanks buddy .. i think im good.. if all else fails the stiffener will get added .. Made out of aluminum or stainless.

[EMSjunkie]

Dave, I have used "Tiger Disks" to clean scale and surface rust.

they are a flap-type grinder disk. I buy them locally at the Harbor Freight.
I'm sure they sell something similar up your way.

with a soft touch like yours, they can leave a smooth finish


Vance

[dragrcr50]

for the hot roll scale just get some vinegar and scotch bight it it will all come off..

[Dave]

Hey good idas guys..  Any specual kind of vinegar? id like to try that one.
Yes vance a little  * like me (fan  against gordon) does have light touch and we also do have a harbor freight about 40 miles away. Thats where i got my cherry picker :?: Well its 5 to 7 am and im having coffee getting ready for another engine run today :!: Hope this one pans out......
Dave

[blasterboy]

why not sand blast? i have been in auto/machinery blasting priming painting business for a long time , i have the customers-job pictures to show that sand blasting done right is the way to go. i can get powder coat done ,but i am not all that hepped up on it. you get a crack in powder coat around a bolt, bolted together part,your going to have powder coat lifting away, i don't care who applied it. ask to see some referral jobs, if they don't move on. a good blast job and two part prim and top grade frame coat. get that for about 1/3 or less for powder coat. don't believe all you hear about blasting tearing holes in things and on and on, i have blasted the paint 3 and 4 layers of it off metal ceiling tiles like in old drug stores and dept. stores. primed and top coated they look like new panels. sir i don't know about your area of the country, i am in the upper corner of maryland i get between $275.00 and $325.00 for a rolling frame blasted and primed. what's nice about this way if you have to repair or replace prim and paint the area your done. have a nice day

[enjenjo]

Well, if you want to bring it down to Toledo, Andersons will blast a bare frame for about $150.

[Choptop]

I would sandblast it, if it were mine.











Looking for a 1961 chevy parts car. Don't need drivetrain. Rust bucket ok.