Mobile 1 thoughts....

purplepickup · April 24, 2006, 06:37:29 PM

Quote from: "34ford"

Mine had the oil left in it. Full level on the dipstick.
bob

I've uncrated two ZZ engines...my 350 and a buddy's 502 and both had oil in them. It was a real strange greenish color. I ran mine long enough to break in the cam then drained it. So did my buddy. Both had a slight metallic look to the oil in the drain pan but no shavings on the plug. It seemed normal for a new engine.

As far as synthetic oil goes, I've switched everything I drive over to it and haven't had any extra leaking on high mileage engines like some people say you can expect. Here in Michigan I think it especially helps with cold starts in the winter. The viscosity doesn't seem to get real thick when it's below zero like dinosaur oil does and I've been told that it sticks to the bearings and stuff so they are lubed better on cold starts. I only use Mobil 1 in my streetrod and Sues Honda tho. The rest get the cheaper brands. I go about 7 or 8,000 miles between oil and filter changes.

enjenjo · April 24, 2006, 08:39:09 PM

Leaving the oil in must be something relatively new. The last time I was in an engine plant was ten years ago.

Crosley.In.AZ · April 24, 2006, 09:01:26 PM

ya know ..... Amsoil is a top syn type oil. Built from top level base oil products. Often Mobil 1 & others oils are from base stock of highly refined dyno oils, not syn base material.

If you want I can provide a email to a guy that sells Amsoil at a low price. He is a 1800 Goldwing guy on a bbs I visit.

Oil is shipped from a local Amsoil warehouse.

I have no $$ connection , just offering a different idear.

HOTRODSRJ · April 25, 2006, 06:34:43 AM

Quote from: "Crosley"ya know ..... Amsoil is a top syn type oil. Built from top level base oil products. Often Mobil 1 & others oils are from base stock of highly refined dyno oils, not syn base material.

If you want I can provide a email to a guy that sells Amsoil at a low price. He is a 1800 Goldwing guy on a bbs I visit.

Oil is shipped from a local Amsoil warehouse.

I have no $$ connection , just offering a different idear.

Just a clarification.

Amsoil is a very good product and is API rated...many years they weren't. YOu are correct about Amsoil about being made from Group IV and V base stocks, which are truly synthetic (man made) medias.....but so it Mobile One, Royal Purple, Redline products. The rest are "highly refined" so-called synthetics, but are superior to the regular Group III based stocked dino stuff.

Also on the seal debate of old. It used to be that certain synthetics could have an adverse affect (shrinking) on certain seals in the engine...causing leaking. The forumlation of synthetics was changed about 10 years ago to remove the certain additive that contributed to this. Now...there is no affect on seals nor will synthetic oil cause your engine to use more oil per se.

Here is a good link out of the UK (European automotive oil standards are actually tuffer than ours).

http://www.whatprice.co.uk/car/synthetic-oil.html

C9 · April 25, 2006, 08:38:31 AM

I've always run Pennzoil in all my engines from pickup to dirt bike to lawnmower.
No problems.

First oil change in my new at the time 2002 Ford F150 SuperCrew with 5.4 liter was to Pennzoil 10-30.

Not too far down the road I decided to give synthetic oil a try.

Being a little leery of the 5-30W oils I talked to a tech writer from the hot rod/racing car world about using 10-30W instead.
The Buick 5W oil debacle from a few years back was strong in my mind.
(It's my understanding they lost more than a few engines on the thin oil they used and recommended in an attempt to boost CAFE.)
He recommended 10-30.

Mobil 10-30 synthetic and Wix filters have been used since the 1000 mile mark.
The pickup is about to hit 50,000 miles, still doesn't burn, leak or use oil.

I can't report on wear cuz I haven't opened up the engine nor do I plan to.

Interesting to hear that the engine doesn't leak - or leak any worse - when going to synthetic.

I've been going back and forth with Pennzoil 10-30 and 20-50 in my 455 Buick engined roadster.
With close to 43,000 miles on the clock and the engine running good, I'm thinking I'll give Mobil 1 a try in the roadster.

Although, I have yet to see Mobil 10-50 in Wally World.
Is it commonly available?
Maybe I'm not seeing it cuz I grab the six-pack of 10-30 and head for checkout.
That's one store I hate to go in on Saturday or Sunday....

tomslik · April 25, 2006, 08:57:00 AM

i personally wouldn't run penzoil in anything......
i'm sure if you change oil every 2K it's not a problem but i see too manypeople that read their owners manual and change every 5-7500 miles.....
ick!

1FATGMC · April 25, 2006, 09:03:22 AM

Quote from: "C9"Although, I have yet to see Mobil 10-50 in Wally World.
Is it commonly available?....

What I bought and decided to try is the "15,000 mile Extended" Mobile 1 that is 15-50 weight.

It came in one of those 5 quart single containers for about $25-$26.

Are you going to the Moab Car Show this coming weekend by any chance? I won't be there, but should be back home on Sunday the 30th, so if you go be sure and stop in Blanding on the way home.

c ya, Sum

Old Hippie · April 25, 2006, 11:00:46 AM

I agree with the benefits of synthetic oil. After break-in of my autos, I have changed all to Mobil 1. In each case I noticed at least 1 1/2 mpg increase and better operation. I do think it a waste of money to change oil at 3000 miles in any fuel injected car (or others too) because they don't get contaminated as in the past. I will usually change filters at about 4000 miles and oil 7000 to 8000 miles and the oil I remove looks clean and feels slippery (technical word). The manufacturer states 7500 or so on oil changes.
I know some of this has been stated before but had to my 2 cents. I will run Mobil 1 in my '32 roadster after break-in and I use Mobil 1 in the rear and will also use a synthetic in trans.
Jim
P.S. I understand the new 'Vettes will not be warrented if you don't use Mobil 1.