Source for lowered spindles or can you make your own?

[32 Chevy]

It's about time that I get the geometry on the 32 chev squared away. I have a MII type crossmember with Nova spindles and rack / pinion steering. The tie rods are not parallel to the ground and the only way I can get it right is with stronger springs and lowered spindles.

So, where can I find Nova spindles with preferably a 1 1/2 inch drop?  I could use 2" but 1 1/2" is perfect. Is it possible for John Q. Average to convert standard spindles to dropped? If so, is there a tutorial?

Thanks,
Dave

[Bob Paulin]

In case you did not know......

There are pins available from most oval-track speed shops (and Speedway Motors) that allow you to change the outer tie-rod ends to Heim joints, and allow you to adjust the height of the tie-rod end in order to adjust bump steer.

They use them in oval-track racing, so I would imagine they would be strong enough for the street.

You might be able to retain your current spring and ride height.......

......and, in anticipation of the next comment.....

....you can also buy seals for the Heim joints that help keep lubricant IN and dirt OUT.....


B.P.

[GPster]

I'm trying to imagine this picture without a drawing but are you describing the steering arms going "up-hill" from the rack to the spindles? My first concern would be the lower "A" frames. Reading all the problems with these conversions the first thing that comes to light is that the lower control arms are not paralell to the ground. If the heavier springs will give you that  1 1/2" to make the arms paralell to the ground than I would say that that's what you need for a start. The steering rack is mounted in correct relationship to the lower and upper control arm axises but if you don't start with the arms at their correct starting place then you're going to exaggerate "bump steer". If the 1 1/2" will put it back where it ought to be and the dropped spindles put the ride height where you want it to be than that might be the best way to go. I'd try spring spacers before I looked for heavier springs. Keep this in mind. Don't let dropped spindles keep you from getting the wheels from being bolted to the hubs because you have desided on a new center point for the brakes. I've talked for an hour and didn't answer your question. GPster

[32 Chevy]

I'm trying to imagine this picture without a drawing but are you describing the steering arms going "up-hill" from the rack to the spindles? My first concern would be the lower "A" frames. Reading all the problems with these conversions the first thing that comes to light is that the lower control arms are not paralell to the ground. If the heavier springs will give you that  1 1/2" to make the arms paralell to the ground than I would say that that's what you need for a start. The steering rack is mounted in correct relationship to the lower and upper control arm axises but if you don't start with the arms at their correct starting place then you're going to exaggerate "bump steer". If the 1 1/2" will put it back where it ought to be and the dropped spindles put the ride height where you want it to be than that might be the best way to go. I'd try spring spacers before I looked for heavier springs. Keep this in mind. Don't let dropped spindles keep you from getting the wheels from being bolted to the hubs because you have desided on a new center point for the brakes. I've talked for an hour and didn't answer your question. GPster

Yes, That is exactly the problem. The lower control arms are not parallel with the ground, they are angling upward from pivot to spindle. If I put install stronger springs, then the front of the car is up in the air. So I need lowered spindles to attain the desired ride height with stronger springs and keep the tie rod ends where they are now. The rack and tie rods are correct according to all the drawings I have seen for steering geometry.

Dave

[GPster]

Imagine this: take your front spindles and machine off the spindle/hub bearing end leaving the stub where the hub grease seal rotates. Now record the diameter of that grease seal surface and cut it into a piece of plate (heavier than a motor mount) say 1/2" and set that piece of plate over the seal surfaceand see if you've got any more of the spindle upright to fasten the plate to (caliper mounts?) so that you now have a spindle upright with ball joint mounts and steering arm and a flat piece of plate fastened to it. Now go and find some Rambler disc brake spindles that fasten to their uprights with four bolts to a flat surface and drill four holes in the 1/2" plate to mate them to. Or maybe some hubs off something with FWD that has axles going though them, some of them bolt on and give you bearing surfaces for hubs or the front end pieces for a 4X4. I should stop now and delete all of this but I've had sooo much fun typing. Maybe someone should come and tell me it's nap time. GPster