Street Rod Electrical grounding

[348tripower]

What is everybodys recomendations on grounding the system. I am having some issues after one summer of driving. Low light output from headlights. Irregular gas gauge reading. VDO electric speedometer  unstable. Maybe I need a better ground from the frame to the body?  Heavier? Lets hear your comments.
Thanks,
Don

[WZ JUNK]

What is everybodys recomendations on grounding the system. I am having some issues after one summer of driving. Low light output from headlights. Irregular gas gauge reading. VDO electric speedometer  unstable. Maybe I need a better ground from the frame to the body?  Heavier? Lets hear your comments.
Thanks,
Don

Seems like grounds are always a problem.  One of my first post on the RRT was a similar question.  Skip told me I needed a better ground and what I call a 3 way.  Body to frame. Engine to frame and engine to body.  I am sure you know how to make good connections and how important that is.  I would add some temporary grounds and see how that changes your problems.  If the problems stop, then add new or better grounds.

[richard 36dodge]

After you get the good grounds. You need to look at how many amps are going through your ingition switch, 60 amps max. I would have some very low volt reading with the A/C on. I checked the Alternator and I was getting 14.5 volts.  
Put all the high draw items on relays, like A/C, MSD ,radio and amp, and don't forget the headlights.  
There are some good articles on www.madelectrical.com look under electrical tech.  They also don't like one wire alternators and I agree.
I hope this helps.
Rick Harris.

[MO_JUNK]

I use the round ground panel marketed by Haywire- other similar panels will work. I use a 10 ga. (or heavier) wire from the point near the starter where the (-) battery cable attaches to the engine, to ground the panel. I mount this master ground terminal somewhere up in the cowl behind the dash. Then everything i.e. light, gauge, switch, etc. grounds off that panel. I treat every vehicle as if the body were fiberglass. I've never had a problem with this set up. Sam

[blksheep]

What WZJunk said bout a three way is exactly what I did.  I used 3, 14" Taylor ground straps that I got from Summit Racing. PN# tay-148014, $4.99 ea.. Of course, make sure the connections are clean and tight. I connected the starter bolt to the frame idler arm bolt, firewall body bolt  to a rear head bolt and back at the trunk mounted battery, I bolted one from the negative battery post, that goes through the body,  to the frame. Overkill? Maybe. But, I can find a good ground any where in the car.

blksheep...tightly connected...in Charlotte

[348tripower]

What WZJunk said bout a three way is exactly what I did.  I used 3, 14" Taylor ground straps that I got from Summit Racing. PN# tay-148014, $4.99 ea.. Of course, make sure the connections are clean and tight. I connected the starter bolt to the frame idler arm bolt, firewall body bolt  to a rear head bolt and back at the trunk mounted battery, I bolted one from the negative battery post, that goes through the body,  to the frame. Overkill? Maybe. But, I can find a good ground any where in the car.

blksheep...tightly connected...in Charlotte

That seems to be the direction I am going to go. Too much is better than not enough.
Don

[Leon]

Coat your connections with something to prevent corrosion otherwise those grounds become useless over time.  I use a Dielectric Grease that is available at places that sell wiring supplies.  I get mine at Waytek Wire.