epoxy bonding metal to metal

[GPster]

not level or smooth.  There will be some gaps,  maybe 1/8  or even 3/16 of an inch   I cannot spot weld it in place

I keep reading this subject because I don't weld sheetmetal up-side down and backwards and the metal doesn't fit close enough to weld anyway. I'm talking about the floor I'm making for my truck. I can make most of it overlap and I could pull it closer together with "pop rivets"  but I don't know what kind of strength to expect from them. The body has mounts at each corner so the floor wouldn't be holding it structurally and the seat mount is stock and in decent shape and will be holding the stock seat in the stock position. Is any of this stuff good enough for a wire brushed surface to add srtength to a "pop rivet" bond? GPster

[enjenjo]

not level or smooth.  There will be some gaps,  maybe 1/8  or even 3/16 of an inch   I cannot spot weld it in place

I keep reading this subject because I don't weld sheetmetal up-side down and backwards and the metal doesn't fit close enough to weld anyway. I'm talking about the floor I'm making for my truck. I can make most of it overlap and I could pull it closer together with "pop rivets"  but I don't know what kind of strength to expect from them. The body has mounts at each corner so the floor wouldn't be holding it structurally and the seat mount is stock and in decent shape and will be holding the stock seat in the stock position. Is any of this stuff good enough for a wire brushed surface to add srtength to a "pop rivet" bond? GPster

I think the Sikaflex would work. We used it for just that purpose on truck trailers to secure patches. Even after removing the rivets, you had to peel the pieces off.

[GPster]

I think the Sikaflex would work. We used it for just that purpose on truck trailers to secure patches. Even after removing the rivets, you had to peel the pieces off.

Oh goody, on a good day I can work a caulking gun and I already have one. I'll add that to my Christmas list. It will probably fit in my stocking so I won't have to wrap it with my eyes closed so I won't know what I'm getting. I've got to get some semblance of a floor in this cab so I can sit on the seat holding the steering wheel and go "RUMMMM RUMMMM". There's too many pieces on the chassis to drive this thing like "Fred Flintstone". GPster

[rooster]

Hummmm!!!! Looks like we might could use alittle of that!

[47convert]

I've got a similar problem right now - before I sent my rear end housing in for powder coat, I welded an extra tab on each axle tube for brake line clips (CSRA seems to think the stock 3 tabs are not enough to hold the brake line to the rear end for their safety check) While it was at the coater, the stock center tab was broken off. It's located at the top of the center section of my 9" rear end where the tube is bent up and around the differencial. Can I epoxy a tab on here or could I drill and tap for a small screw without the dope seeping out? The other 4 tabs on the axle tubes are holding it just fine but the center will need to be secured to get my 34 safetied.

[zzebby]

The powder coat is tough and you'll need to sand it well to get a bond and the sanded area will show,  plus the goop plus then you'll need to paint it and it won't match and on and on etc.
I'd take a piece of 3/4  or 1 inch 12 gauge strap and make a tab that comes off one or the top pumpkin bolts to hold the brake line in the middle.  Seems that I've seen some 9 inchers with that.