Brake Help Please

[40]

Got the brake system revamped.....couldn't fit the 8" dual diaphram booster under the floor so I opted for a dual 7" and replaced the 1 1/8" m/c with a 15/16" unit.I also added a remote fill mounted to the firewall.They work super but I believe they could have been a bit better yet with the 8" booster.....I will modify the chassis I'm building for my 37 Sedan to accept the 8".While bringing the car home from the shop,going about 70mph down the interstate,I look in the rear view mirror just in time to see the soft top flying thru the air like a frizbee after getting sucked out of the top of the car.....we hadn't put the rubber seal in place yet as we wanted to buff and wax it before we installed it.The top insert had a cloth-like backing attached to the rubber/vinyl...the glue held great,the two layers separated leaving a nice white 1" strip of material attached to the roof  Naturally,it was rush hour traffic so the top got ran over a zillion times and destroyed  Waiting for the UPS man AGAIN!!

[timkins]

What difference does it make that the lines may be hooked up backwards? The answer to this question may alleviate a problem I have been experiencing.

[enjenjo]

If the lines are hooked up backeards, it may, or may not cause a problem. If the master cylinder had built in residual check valves, the rear drum brake valve, 10 psi, hooked to the front brakes, may cause the brakes to drag.

[40cpe]

[quoteWhile bringing the car home from the shop,going about 70mph down the interstate,I look in the rear view mirror just in time to see the soft top flying thru the air like a frizbee after getting sucked out of the top of the car!![/quote]

Reminds me of 1966 and I had a '55 T-bird. It was running particularly well one Sunday afternoon. Construction was nearly complete on a new 4-lane highway south of town, but not open to the public yet. I took the car to the end of a long stretch and opened it up. The tach was reading 5000 rpms when I heard a noise like a giant beer can being opened (swwwish). I looked in the rear view morror to see my rear glass doing flip-flops high in the air. When it hit the pavement it exploded into a million little pieces. I went back to where it hit and found every piece of the stainless trim and the gasket.

[Dirk35]

I am also having brake problems, but I really think mine is the Willwood residual valves. I had good pressure and it would hod for about two-three days but would get soft and I would have to pump th epedal up again.

I really didnt worry about it (as it would pump up and hold fine), but after I pulled the entire front suspension off to move the MII crossmember back an inch to center the wheels up in the wheel-well, I cannot even get the pedal to pump up and get hard.

I am wanting to change out the valves, but havent put much into it since I have finally gotten more parts and the truck is not ahead of me.

Frank, what is a good residual valve to use that will fit in the lines where I have my willwood ones? I dont want to have to cut and re-flare the lines.

Thanks.

[enjenjo]

I have been buying them from Stainless Steel Brakes. No problems with any of their valves so far.

[40]

Frank....Do you have contact info for them??Thanks!

[enjenjo]

http://www.ssbrakes.com/

[40]

Thanks!!

[Dirk35]

Thanks Frank, I ordered two fo the two pound ones and will toss my Willwood ones.