What Kind Of Paint To Use?

Started by loiselle, August 26, 2005, 04:21:22 PM

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loiselle

In the old days, it was lacquer or enamel.  Now there are all kinds of paint out there.  Help out an old man.

I am getting ready to paint my Model A.  It will be a driver, not show car.  I am thinking of painting the hood, cab, and bed a dark hunter green and the fenders, aprons, and running boards black.

I have been using Rustoleum sandable auto primer.  

*  Do I need to give it several coats of another primer prior to painting so the paint will definitely stick?  If yes, what kind of primer should I use?

* What kind of paint should I use that it fast drying, hard (doesn't chip easily), and goes on easily and smoothly without being a professional painter?

Help?

Larry
ditvenet@hotmail.com
Larry D. Loiselle
30maccp@gmail.com
http://loiselle.witnesstoday.org/
Be Righteous Not Politically Correct

rumrumm

If you are not using a catalyzed primer, you won't be able to use urethane over it. How much primer have you used, and how hard would it be to sand it off so you could use a compatible primer? You might want to check and see what Rustoleum recommends for paint to go over their primer product--something that is compatible. You could have a really ugly mess on your hands if you are not careful.
Lynn
'32 3W

I write novels, too. https://lsjohanson.com

loiselle

Quote from: "rumrumm"If you are not using a catalyzed primer, you won't be able to use urethane over it. How much primer have you used, and how hard would it be to sand it off so you could use a compatible primer? You might want to check and see what Rustoleum recommends for paint to go over their primer product--something that is compatible. You could have a really ugly mess on your hands if you are not careful.

**The can says "it is compatible with most automotive lacquers and enamels.  If using an auto lacquer,  a test application for compatibilty is recommended."

The entire vehicle is covered with this primer.

Larry
Larry D. Loiselle
30maccp@gmail.com
http://loiselle.witnesstoday.org/
Be Righteous Not Politically Correct

kb426

I don't want to wreck your day but may save you from some disappointment down the road. Only enamel or uncatalyzed  acrylic enamel will work over that primer. The real problem is that in 2 years your paint job will fade badly. The only good paint out there is the urethanes. They require matching primers and a forced air respirator to spray them and not kill you. Kirker automotive sells acrylic enamel in 40 colors. If you can live with the short life span, that's an option.
TEAM SMART

parklane

Can you still topcoat that with a clear to hold the shine longer?
John
If a blind person wears sunglasses, why doesn\'t a deaf person wear earmuffs??

kb426

To the best of my knowledge, no one makes a clear that is compatible with either enamel or uncat. acrylic enamel. I use to use the stuff they called binder. It was slightly yellow and was the mixing ingredient  for the color.  None of these items will last past 2 years in the sun. The higher you are in elevation, the shorter life span. I wish I had good news for you. I spent about $450 for a forced air respirator to be able to shoot all the newer stuff. It was pricey, but I have really good results. Everyone that does a project has to decide how good it should be and how long do you expect it to last.  I wanted my work to last at least 5 years. I didn't want to spend a large amount of money either. That's why I mentioned Kirker Automotive. I don't think it's the easyest to work with, but it costs far less than the mainline paint.
TEAM SMART

phat46

Would it be possible to shoot a sealer overt the primer then use BC/CC?
I had to seal the primer on a '65 Impala back in the 80's because the primer was lifting no matter what i put ovet it. The guy at the PPG store suggested, as a last resort, to try a water borne sealer. It worked and the paint came out pretty good.