Alternator wiring

[41woodie]

Ok, the wiring woes on the Woodie continue.  Several sources state that on a 10si 3-wire GM distributor w/int regulator you can simply tie the #2 feed directly to the Batt post on the alternator and eliminate some wiring.  I remembered that two of the wires from the alternator were already tied together under the dash so I thought to myself, Self, why don't we just fix a pigtail between #2 (the one shown in most schematics to go to the horn relay) and the batt post and get rid of the extra wire.
Sounded easy but when I traced the wires back to find the two that were tied together it was the wire from #1 and #2 that were tied spliced and run to the Accesory feed on the Ron Francis panel.  What the heck?? Remember this is on a car that was running and driving and charging correctly.  Can someone enlighten (get it, "enlighten") me on why these should be tied together.
Most schematics show #1 going to the ballast resistor and #2 going to the horn relay where it joins the wire from the batt post on the alternator. This seems to be getting worse instead of better today.

[rooster]

Try this about page 6.  http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/90501Manual.pdf

[GPster]

Have you thought about taking your alternator to a shop and have it changed to 1 wire? got a little shop here that does it for the locals for about $20.00. GPster

[41woodie]

Have you thought about taking your alternator to a shop and have it changed to 1 wire? got a little shop here that does it for the locals for about $20.00. GPster

I haven't heard too much good about 1 -wire's such as over-heating etc. am I misinformed??

[41woodie]

Try this about page 6.  http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/90501Manual.pdf

I've tried downloading the manuals at that site several times without success.  Where I live I can't get DSL and on a dial-up the server keeps resetting itself before the download is finished.

[Dirk35]

Try this about page 6.  http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/90501Manual.pdf

I've tried downloading the manuals at that site several times without success.  Where I live I can't get DSL and on a dial-up the server keeps resetting itself before the download is finished.

Its not you, its the site hosting it. It keeps locking up my computer after it gets to about page 28. Im on one of the fastest connections in town. It wont even let me stop it manually after it gets a few pages and display them.

[41woodie]

Try this about page 6.  http://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/90501Manual.pdf

I've tried downloading the manuals at that site several times without success.  Where I live I can't get DSL and on a dial-up the server keeps resetting itself before the download is finished.

Its not you, its the site hosting it. It keeps locking up my computer after it gets to about page 28. Im on one of the fastest connections in town. It wont even let me stop it manually after it gets a few pages and display them.

Well good it's not just me!  Thanks for letting me know.

[model a vette]

#2 terminal can be wired to the bat post on the alt. #1 should be wired to be on with the ign. Mine's been wired that way since 1976!

[41woodie]

#2 terminal can be wired to the bat post on the alt. #1 should be wired to be on with the ign. Mine's been wired that way since 1976!

I agree with what you are saying completely and that's where the problem is.  Everyone says that #2 and Batt can be wired together, but on the woodie #1 and #2 are wired together? I don't understand what I'm seeing.  And the car ran fine like this. MH

[enjenjo]

#2 terminal can be wired to the bat post on the alt. #1 should be wired to be on with the ign. Mine's been wired that way since 1976!

I agree with what you are saying completely and that's where the problem is.  Everyone says that #2 and Batt can be wired together, but on the woodie #1 and #2 are wired together? I don't understand what I'm seeing.  And the car ran fine like this. MH

They could, and it wouldn't hurt a thing, there is no current potential, and it would become a redundant circuit.  Just hook the up to the new alternator, big red to the bolt terminal, small red to the #2 terminal, and the white or brown to the #1 terminal, and it should work fine.

The big red wire is the power wire to supply the system, the small red wire is a control circuit to sense when the alternator needs to supply power, and the third wire is to energize the fireld coil, and also is used to run a light to indicate charge in some cases.

I had a guy show me how to run a standard alternator, one wire, by installing a capacitor on the #1 terminal, and jumping the #2 terminal to the stud terminal.

[tonto1]

I have an alternator from an '88 Chevy police car and with the third wire connected to a light, the light stays on while the car is running.
Is this normal?

[enjenjo]

I have an alternator from an '88 Chevy police car and with the third wire connected to a light, the light stays on while the car is running.
Is this normal?

Yes. If the socket is grounded. You should have an insulated socket with two wires. One wire to the alternator, the other to the accessory side of the ignition. The light will come on with the ignition switch, and go off when the engine starts, unless the alternator isn't charging.

[Stakebed]

I have an alternator from an '88 Chevy police car and with the third wire connected to a light, the light stays on while the car is running.
Is this normal?

  No, usually when the light is on it's not charging. If the light comes on at idle and fades as you rev the engine its usually a diode or diodes out. Either the diode trio or the rectifier bridge. each has 3 diodes and any number of them can be shot. Sometimes with just one out it will still charge somewhat but not like it should.

[tonto1]

Well, I did it wrong. I grounded the other side of the lite. I'll change the wire to the accessory side of the switch.

Thanks a lot

Harry