??/opnions About Cutting threads in Stainelss Rod

Dirk35 · November 19, 2004, 09:40:05 AM

Hey all, I got a set of the Stainless radiator support rods for my 35 the other day. I think their Vintique Brand.

Well, the ones for the 28-30s cars were about 4 inches too short, the ones for the 33-37 vehicles are about 6" too long! I of course got the longer ones. The threads, although about 4 inches long, I still need to cut about 2 more inches of thread before I cut them to size.

If I keep my Die well oiled, what are the chances of destroying the Die? Its Snap-on brand, three fluted, and my dads, and I really dont want to buy a single die.....I destroy enough in end mill and drill bits as it is!

Should I try it, just for fun, or should I just find a shop and let them destroy their own dies?

Thanks

rooster · November 19, 2004, 11:09:58 AM

I did that with my rods too. just a little bit at a time and lots of oil. no problem!

GPster · November 19, 2004, 12:22:34 PM

Somebody's going to tell me to "Shut Up" soon,but here goes. First check the diameter of the rod. If the threads had been rolled on (see I pay attention Frank) the rod may be under-sized to hold a cut thread and all you'll end up with is a nice equidistand groove. Secondly, a lot of the attraction to stainless is the non-rusting quality and a lot of it is a grade that is not very hard. Try the file test on it, could also try the magnet test to give you some idea what you have. If it appears real hard you can always cut a section out of the center and silver solder the two ends back together. A lot of the special stainless steel bolt that you find around have 2 lines on the head so the way they have broken on me they aren't even as tough as a grade 5 (3 lines). Well I've made myself feel smart. GPster

Bib_Overalls · November 19, 2004, 12:50:19 PM

I had a nut gaul (sp?) on one of my my Vintique radiator support rods. I cut the nut off and ran a die ove the damaged threads and saved the rod. Not the same as cutting new threads. But a positive experience.

I think the 32 rods are a couple of inches longer than the 28/31s.

SKR8PN · November 19, 2004, 02:03:19 PM

Dirk,you shouldn't have any trouble cutting those threads. Stainless is a relatively soft metal,like GPster mentioned,about a grade 2. Just keep your die clean and oiled,you'll be just fine.
Don't forget to check the rod diameter first though.............

Dave · November 19, 2004, 04:43:28 PM

Quote from: "GPster"Somebody's going to tell me to "Shut Up" soon,but here goes. First check the diameter of the rod. If the threads had been rolled on (see I pay attention Frank) the rod may be under-sized to hold a cut thread and all you'll end up with is a nice equidistand groove. Secondly, a lot of the attraction to stainless is the non-rusting quality and a lot of it is a grade that is not very hard. Try the file test on it, could also try the magnet test to give you some idea what you have. If it appears real hard you can always cut a section out of the center and silver solder the two ends back together. A lot of the special stainless steel bolt that you find around have 2 lines on the head so the way they have broken on me they aren't even as tough as a grade 5 (3 lines). Well I've made myself feel smart. GPster

I tried to do a set and they had the rolled threads.Gpster is right check em close

Sean · November 19, 2004, 08:20:06 PM

I threaded a bunch of 1/2" Stainless Rod at work a couple months ago. I just bought some straight Die's to put in our Pipe Threading machine and let it run itself normally. I threaded 6" on each end of 28 Rods and it was still cutting fine on the last one.

I don't know what kind of oil is in the machine, but it looks like Molasses and smells like Sulpher. Anytime that I am using a Tap or Die by hand on Stainless, I use "Anchor Lube". Its good stuff and is also Water soluble. It comes as a thin "paste", but can be thinned more with water to use as a drilling lubricant.

One of the most important things to remember when dealing with Stainless fasteners is to use Anti-Sieze. Stainless will Gall very easily, especially if you are using air tools to tighten them with.

I work almost exclusively with Stainless and have learned the hard way...

http://www.anchorlube.com/

C9 · November 20, 2004, 10:00:19 AM

Heed the comments about rolled threads.

I machine and thread a lot of stainless for a home shop guy.

The commonly available at hardware stores Tap-Matic works ok, but I think the stuff the other guys are recommending would do a better job.

I'm wondering as well if Break-Free - comes in a rattle can I believe - would do a better job.
I understand some folks are using it to thread aluminum and it's supposed to works well.

Biggest problem I've found is that stainless wears the dies out faster than mild steel or aluminum will.
To that end if you know you have some stainless thread cutting coming up, get a new die and keep it segregated from the others.
The smaller dies in the ACE and other small die sets are fairly cheap at Orchard Supply stores and the like when purchased individually.
(You'll know your die is dull when it starts ripping pieces out of the base metal. Identified most times by areas of missing threads on one side or all the way around.)

You can buy the tap and die handles by themselves if your tap & die set is one of the larger styles or hex vs. round etc
A really good investment is the die handle that has the adjustable guides.
If you're not threading in the lathe it's difficult to get the die started absolutely square.
Squareness is essential because you're making a fairly long run of threads.

I've made a lot of stainless radiator support rods and buy the stainless in 5/16" and 3/8" diameter sizes.
I believe it's #308 alloy and it could be #316.
Either of these alloys are what stainless bolts are made from.

Most of the reading I do about stainless bolts etc. indicate the commonly available stuff is rated equal to Grade 4 - which means it falls between grades that are used in non-critical and critical areas. (Grade 2-3 and Grade 5.)

Dirk35 · November 22, 2004, 09:12:16 AM

The threads are already there, so getting it started square should not be a problem....Right?

Far as hardness, then why is stainelss so hard to cut on the cut-off saw?

I understand the different grades, but I used stainess strap to mount my fuel cell, and even 80 grit sandpaper didnt sand it rough! Was the stainess strap just a lot harder?

Far as rolled threads, how do I tell? They look like normal threads on any bolt, but the "bolt" is three fet long. It looks like the diamater of the rod is the same as the outside diamater of the thread, indicating they were cut.

enjenjo · November 22, 2004, 09:26:48 AM

stainless isn't hard, but it is tough. that's why it cuts hard.

look at where the threads end on the rod. If it's a rolled thread the end of the thread will be raised a bit from the surface, if a cut thread, it will be flat, and machine marks will be visible.