And answer to 41woody's PM question

[av8]

Mike Higbee asked me what I'd learned about my roadster after living with it and what I'd do differently. I composed a detailed answer but when I attempted to send it it was kicked back because of a "general error," or some such business.

No worries, I saved the answer and am posting it here in case the reply really did not go through to Higbee.
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First, a couple of obvious fluffs: The hole in the motor mount should be 1-1/4inches, not 1-1/2 inches; F-1 rear brakes will not fit on the early Ford rear axle . . . you should use Ford passenger car brakes instead, 1940-1948.

Some things I might do a little differently today:

1. I might box the rear frame step with a long fishmouth on the forward end of the boxing plate . . . and add some rear frame triangulators from the Model A center crossmember back to the boxing for the step.

2. I'd get rid of the big sheet-metal cross-rib inside the body -- the one on the floor at the rear of the cockpit -- and flatten the trunk floor behind it. Then I'd section the seat frame a couple of inches and move it back about 4-5 inches.  I'd eliminate a couple of inches of padding from the seat bottom and about 3 inches from the back. I'd cut * holes in the seat base and add Pirelli webbing (as I did on mine after a few months), and I'd tell the trimmer to NOT carry the seat-back upholstery up onto the wood top-snap strip at the rear of the cockpit; make the seat back removable and cover the snap strip separately . . . then I would threaten him bodily if he didn't pay attention this time. I'd also tell him to make the carpet thicker and removable . . . also with the same threat.

3. I'd locate the starter button, light switch, and choke knob in the instrument panel facia rather than under the dash. I'd add turn signals in the rear and control them with a three-position switch under the left edge of the dashboard, with and LED indicator lamp.

4. I'd narrow the crown and back bows for the top a couple of inches and lean the back bow forward another 5-7 degrees. I'd instruct the trimmer to increase the width of the side curtain flaps 1 inch and wrap their forward ends around the top header an additional inch, and add a flap to the header that would drop down over the front of the top of the windshield frame . . . with the requisite threat that must be used with some trimmers. I'd also insist that the rear-window panel be completely removable -- no excuses this time!

5. I'd make the side-curtain frames I designed and have them covered, with the forward edges long enough that they'd wrap all the way around the windshield posts far enough to cover the gap between the post and the windshield frame.

6. I'd put cycle fenders on the front wheels for the rainy weather, of which we have a lot. Maybe just leave 'em on year 'round.

7. I'd make the hood sides I designed to go with the hood top that I added after a few months on the road.

8. I'd swap the Offy triple manifold for a Navarro two-carb super and put the third 97 in the trunk as a spare.

That's about it, nothing drastic, just some refinements with most of them made in the interest of comfort and convenience. For the two-plus years I drove the roadster it was essentially a daily driver, year around, even during the rainy season; the side curtains would have allowed me to drive in the wet without a rainsuit.

I hope this helps.

Mike Bishop

[41woodie]

Thank you so much for the information on your roadster.  Sorry for the difficulty trying to reach me, but really appreciate your diligence in posting the info publicly so all could benefit. MH - 41woodie