Turbo 350 to flex plate question

348tripower · October 27, 2004, 05:25:30 AM

This didn't make the board last night so here we go again! I was putting the bolts in the converter and flexplate only to find I have a 1/4 inch gap between the two. The converter will not pull up and close this gap. :cry: The engine and crank are 1980 Chevy 350 and the trans is a Chevy 350 that was hooked up on a 57 283. Any ideas? Maybe I need some spacers between the two? I ma at a loss on this one.
Don

tomslik · October 27, 2004, 07:10:22 AM

Quote from: "348tripower"This didn't make the board last night so here we go again! I was putting the bolts in the converter and flexplate only to find I have a 1/4 inch gap between the two. The converter will not pull up and close this gap. :cry: The engine and crank are 1980 Chevy 350 and the trans is a Chevy 350 that was hooked up on a 57 283. Any ideas? Maybe I need some spacers between the two? I ma at a loss on this one.
Don

pilot bushing/bearing still in the crank?
flexplate on backwards?
maybe just put a screwdriver behind the converter and jiggle a bit while gently prying?
that's about all i can think of right now.

348tripower · October 27, 2004, 07:56:23 AM

No pilot bearing,
Tried the prying deal, even tapping on the converter, nothing. I think I may have to pull the motor and see what is going on here.

Quote from: "tomslik"
Quote from: "348tripower"This didn't make the board last night so here we go again! I was putting the bolts in the converter and flexplate only to find I have a 1/4 inch gap between the two. The converter will not pull up and close this gap. :cry: The engine and crank are 1980 Chevy 350 and the trans is a Chevy 350 that was hooked up on a 57 283. Any ideas? Maybe I need some spacers between the two? I ma at a loss on this one.
Don

pilot bushing/bearing still in the crank?
flexplate on backwards?
maybe just put a screwdriver behind the converter and jiggle a bit while gently prying?
that's about all i can think of right now.

rooster · October 27, 2004, 09:15:39 AM

Be sure that the converter is all the way seated before installing again, seems I remember this happening to me too.

348tripower · October 27, 2004, 09:27:12 AM

Denny,
The converter is all the way in the trans. Its the converter to the crank that is giving me the problem.
Don

Quote from: "rooster"Be sure that the converter is all the way seated before installing again, seems I remember this happening to me too.

rooster · October 27, 2004, 09:48:18 AM

Quote from: "348tripower"Denny,
The converter is all the way in the trans. Its the converter to the crank that is giving me the problem.
Don

Quote from: "rooster"Be sure that the converter is all the way seated before installing again, seems I remember this happening to me too.

Maybe check flex plate for backwards! Ware on teeth should be on starter side! I would think 1/4" is to much, the bolts for that location are very short! Just a thought. I assume the 1/4" is after the trans case has been bolted the block.

Pope Downunder · October 27, 2004, 10:30:09 PM

Quote from: "348tripower"This didn't make the board last night so here we go again! I was putting the bolts in the converter and flexplate only to find I have a 1/4 inch gap between the two. The converter will not pull up and close this gap. :cry: The engine and crank are 1980 Chevy 350 and the trans is a Chevy 350 that was hooked up on a 57 283. Any ideas? Maybe I need some spacers between the two? I ma at a loss on this one.
Don

Others have suggested the flex-plate could be on backwards. Of course, you wouldn't want to pull it back that far (1/4") anyhow, as it would severly reduce the engagement on the pump. I have heard of people putting in washers, but never 1/4". But, you say it will not pull up anyhow, so, if the flex-plate is installed correctly, there must be something wrong.

Is it the same flex-plate and torque converter that were installed on the 283? was it a runner? If you are confident that the flex-plate is installed correctly, and that they were working together before, I guess I'd take a punt, and stick in some 1/8" spacer washers, and fire it up to see what happens.

enjenjo · October 27, 2004, 11:17:42 PM

Can you spin the convertor without turning the engine? If you can't, something isn't installed right.

Crosley.In.AZ · October 27, 2004, 11:53:04 PM

the hub on the front of the converter must engage into the crank shaft for alignment.

You need to check the crank end for dirt or damage that will not allow the hub to slip in.

If the tranny was against a 283 and worked fine....I'd be looking at the end of the crank of the replacement engine.

It is not uncomon for a gap of .125 or 1/8th inch between the flexplate and converter when the converter is pushed fully into the tranny

348tripower · October 28, 2004, 05:27:08 AM

Thanks to all who answered this question. I rechecked things last night and found with washers of 3/32 inch I was able to bolt the converter up without bending the flexplate. This also left the starter drive fully engaged with the ring gear. I misled myself and eveybody else with the 1/4 inch number as I was seeing this at the outside diameter of the flexplate where the starter drive is. All seems to be well now!

In all the engine swaps I have done, this is the first time I have seen this. Live and learn

Don

Quote from: "Crosley"the hub on the front of the converter must engage into the crank shaft for alignment.

You need to check the crank end for dirt or damage that will not allow the hub to slip in.

If the tranny was against a 283 and worked fine....I'd be looking at the end of the crank of the replacement engine.

It is not uncomon for a gap of .125 or 1/8th inch between the flexplate and converter when the converter is pushed fully into the tranny

tomslik · October 28, 2004, 06:57:16 AM

Quote from: "348tripower"Thanks to all who answered this question. I rechecked things last night and found with washers of 3/32 inch I was able to bolt the converter up without bending the flexplate. This also left the starter drive fully engaged with the ring gear. I misled myself and eveybody else with the 1/4 inch number as I was seeing this at the outside diameter of the flexplate where the starter drive is. All seems to be well now! In all the engine swaps I have done, this is the first time I have seen this. Live and learn
Don

Quote from: "Crosley"the hub on the front of the converter must engage into the crank shaft for alignment.

You need to check the crank end for dirt or damage that will not allow the hub to slip in.

If the tranny was against a 283 and worked fine....I'd be looking at the end of the crank of the replacement engine.

It is not uncomon for a gap of .125 or 1/8th inch between the flexplate and converter when the converter is pushed fully into the tranny

i'm still thinkin' you have a problem someplace...
i've NEVER had to do that,ever!

GPster · October 28, 2004, 10:24:08 AM

Just a little diversion to let everyone know that somtimes things can be too perfect. Back in the '70s when you could/would have crankshafts hard chromed for various reasons a friend that was freshening up an engine for the last race of the year (new sponsor suggested it) he had the crank chromed. When we where assemblying the car to load it on the trailer for the trip,the tranny wouldn't bolt up. We had to load it and hope that they could find the problem in the pits. Because all these parts had been together before we couldn't understand but that was part of the problem, When the crank was sent out to be chromed the pilot bushing had been left in place. The bushing had gained enough to undersize the I.D. of the it. GPster

348tripower · October 28, 2004, 10:38:42 AM

How mucn of that converter actually goes into the carnk? It wasn't in a bind and it would spin freely. I couldn't push it side to side or up and down at all! I could allso hear it hit bottom when pushed forward? i found this info on one site:CHECK CONVERTER TO FLEX PLATE ALIGNMENT

After bell housing bolts are tight, check free movement of converter. It should have 1/16 to 1/8" of clearance between pads on converter and flex plate. If you have more than 1/16 to 1/8", install equal thickness washers to reduce clearance to 1/16 to 1/8". If not enough clearance, remove transmission and check to see if converter is seated in front pump properly.
Draw converter bolts up evenly so as not to pull converter into a bind causing vibration and pump bushing failure.
If vibration occurs after installation, mark converter to flex plate and rotate the converter one bolt hole at a time.

Don

Quote from: "tomslik"
Quote from: "348tripower"Thanks to all who answered this question. I rechecked things last night and found with washers of 3/32 inch I was able to bolt the converter up without bending the flexplate. This also left the starter drive fully engaged with the ring gear. I misled myself and eveybody else with the 1/4 inch number as I was seeing this at the outside diameter of the flexplate where the starter drive is. All seems to be well now! In all the engine swaps I have done, this is the first time I have seen this. Live and learn
Don

Quote from: "Crosley"the hub on the front of the converter must engage into the crank shaft for alignment.

You need to check the crank end for dirt or damage that will not allow the hub to slip in.

If the tranny was against a 283 and worked fine....I'd be looking at the end of the crank of the replacement engine.

It is not uncomon for a gap of .125 or 1/8th inch between the flexplate and converter when the converter is pushed fully into the tranny

i'm still thinkin' you have a problem someplace...
i've NEVER had to do that,ever!