Trouble shooting a 2002 Ford

Started by 416Ford, April 08, 2021, 08:03:03 AM

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416Ford

Working on a vacuum leak at high rpm. When I get on the expressway or pass someone my heater doors close. I have checked all the heater system and believe there is no issues there. Working on the emission/fuel canister in the RH fender and I do not get any resistance/hold. I do not get any hold with a vacuum gauge at any point.
You never have time to do it right the first time but you always have time to do it again.

enjenjo

The shop I use for my daily driver uses a smoke tester to find vacuum leaks. Recently they traced a vacuum problem on my Silverado to a pinhole rusted in the fuel tank sender. The quick way to smoke test it is a gallon of high test and a fuzee. Either way seems to work.
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kb426

Please elaborate: "gallon of high test and a fuzee"
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jaybee

Here's one version of a cheap smoke detector.  
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. Eric Hoffer  (1902 - 1983)

enjenjo

Quote from: "kb426"Please elaborate: "gallon of high test and a fuzee"

You pour the high test on the floor of the car, and throw the lit fuzee through the window. Smoke comes out everywhere. All car problems are solved unless you try to collect on the insurance, that has it's own set of problems.
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416Ford

All these are helpful but didn't answer the question.  Car is rust free so now I am look at what is a vacuum leak.
You never have time to do it right the first time but you always have time to do it again.

kb426

How about you unplug some items that are suspect, cap the lines and go for a drive. Process of elimination is my thought without a vacuum diagram to see where in the chain the heater control is. My thought is that the heater is last so it might be the 1st to loose vacuum. At wide open throttle you could have 2 to 4 inches of vacuum. I think most items take around 10 to operate and that is why so many vehicles have vacuum canisters to have enough volume to make up for low engine vacuum. I would think that you would have more items not working when the heater doors close though. I think if there is a canister, I would check it. Sorry I don't have a real answer. :)
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enjenjo

Seriously a smoke tester is the way to go. Anything else is just swapping good parts The other alternative is buying a roll of vacuum line and replacing it all.

What engine does it have? Any codes?
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Ohio Blue Tip

The way I check for vacuum leaks.
Run the engine and put a hose on your propane torch,  don't light it, go around with the LP gas and when a leak is found the engine speeds up.  Works great for me.
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Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way.
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jaybee

Quote from: "Ohio Blue Tip"The way I check for vacuum leaks.
Run the engine and put a hose on your propane torch,  don't light it, go around with the LP gas and when a leak is found the engine speeds up.  Works great for me.

I've used that one before. It works.
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. Eric Hoffer  (1902 - 1983)

416Ford

An update for those who care.  The thingabydobob is not supposed to do what it was doing. It is actually a fuel tank purge valve, I found some info online on how to test it and mine was bad. Installed the new one, a new front seal, and a new belt. That it. No more working on that car, goes up for sale next week.

I wish all of my cars were this clean underneath after 19 years.
You never have time to do it right the first time but you always have time to do it again.

kb426

Doesn't look like it's from the rust belt. :)
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