Heim joints in street use

Started by jaybee, November 15, 2020, 12:09:44 PM

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jaybee

I have questions about rod ends in street use.

How long can they be expected to last?

How often do they need to be cleaned and lubricated?

What about seals? Here's a page with a couple of options, one for a washer with flexible seal attached, or a full boot to go over the entire joint like overshoes  https://sealsit.com/product-category/rod-end-boot-rod-end-seal/

The same outfit carries an elastomeric rod end, effectively a rod end body with rubber in the middle that's high durometer with much less volume of rubber than a conventional rubber bushing, shaped to allow the flexing of a heim joint. Thoughts on this setup? Anyone used them?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sit-sf1010r
https://www.onedirt.com/news/new-products/summit-racing-now-offering-seals-it-sealflex-elastomer-rod-ends/

I'm not shilling for Seals-it, just ran across all these different options from one company. I'm sure there are other options for suppliers. Here's a video which discusses all of them.  
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. Eric Hoffer  (1902 - 1983)

enjenjo

In my experience Heim Joints don't last very long on the street. I've tried bronze lined, teflon lined, nylon lined and steel lined. They all last about 100 miles and get loose. Somewhat better luck with the ones with a grease fitting, but they are not as strong. So go one size bigger and lube them often.

I have had decent luck with the Urethane rod ends with steel bushing  like these  https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Rod-End-Supply-FBE12-Steel-4-Bar-Rod-End-3-4-16-RH-Thread-Straight,60385.html
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

chimp koose

I think spherical rod ends are for race cars that get torn down and inspected often .  There is little if any ability to absorb road shock and street driving can produce a lot more shocks to the joint on a typical street drive than a lap of a groomed racing surface . We would replace 4 link and ladder bar rod ends after a few seasons or when they measured as worn .  100 quarter mile passes is still only 100 miles of travel if you count shut down and return road driving . If a rod end fails on a race car you have a roll cage , retaining walls and an ambulance at your disposal as well as a waiver signed by anyone near in the event of a failure . I have a rod end at the axle end of both my panhard rods on the T chassis for clearance issues , the frame mounted ends have rubber bushed ends .

kb426

I'm watching people build hot rods with heims and clevis's. I know they can't have long life. Jaybee, those rubber ones will last longer than steel due to shock absorption. Whether it is a viable product for street use or not, I don't know. I used standard steel units on race cars for years just like everybody else. They were checked over after every weekend. Would anybody check their street car that closely? If I had an application that was low stress, I'd try them. Just not for steering or axle mounting. Sorry I didn't answer your question in a direct manner. :)
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jaybee

Thanks for the answers, I suspected as much. Poly or something like tie rod ends would be better, wouldn't it?
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. Eric Hoffer  (1902 - 1983)

rumrumm

I would not use them on a street car build. There are more suitable alternatives.
Lynn
'32 3W

I write novels, too. https://lsjohanson.com

jaybee

That's certainly unanimous. Looks like tie rod ends are the solution. That could be done with this: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Frame-Mount-Plate-for-Tie-Rod-Ends-Pair,215975.html

Or depending on the situation and if you wanted to get fancy with this:  https://welderseries.com/Tie-Rod-End-Mounting-Kit-p51209625
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. Eric Hoffer  (1902 - 1983)