IDJ 455

Started by idrivejunk, April 08, 2018, 01:31:08 PM

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idrivejunk

Well, my point is that the springs are not just applicable to only one cam. Are any of them that way? Mine could be equivalent to those which match other brands of cams, I don't know but figured to ask when the times comes. Of course valvesprings are only a hundred but if the dimensions don't work with the retainers and locks it breaks the whole upgrade.

The 4X casting was available from 98-114 cc if I recall correctly, and the suffix indicates the chamber size. I didn't want to post any head specs because the first thing that will happen is somebody will say the info can't be trusted. I ran the 4X heads a couple thousand miles on a + .060 400 with eight relief pistons. If the 455 has reliefs at all, and the old small valve heads are 114cc and the new are 98 for example... I can almost guarantee I still won't have anywhere near 9:1 compression. Cranking pressure was 150 when I got it. The 4X heads should drop on and go as far as I am concerned but I want to do proper research and footwork that is necessary for cam selection first. Thats why I'm here. :)
Matt

idrivejunk

is there anyone here familiar with Pontiac V8s? That probably should have been the first question but I thought a couple guys here  are or were machinists and I figured machinists fix all brands. I hoped some had done Pontiacs. Thats my whole trouble, I kept it so long the technology is forgotten. Barking up the wrong tree here, I get that.  I'll figure it out myself. Federal tax refund finally arrived yesterday. I'll use it for two health insurance payments instead or fix the DD suspension or the air on Dad's car, and just get a pair of tires instead of a cam. Such is life.
Matt

enjenjo

Okay, they are 4x heads. What is the stamped code near the rocker cover rail. That will tell the Combustion chamber size. Do you know what pistons you have in the engine now?

Here is a link with head codes  http://www.wallaceracing.com/head1.htm

There is a lot to be said for electronic ignition control. With a knock sensor you can run more advance, make more horsepower, and still keep the engine out of detonation.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

idrivejunk

They are 4X-4, as stated above. I knew that post was gonna be too long, should have broken it into multiples.

I didn't reference the head code specs because as I figured, whoever helps me would graciously link the info they prefer to trust. As you have.

A knock sensor would be great but Pontiacs never had them. Can they be added? I have not pulled heads on the 455 to see the pistons. I may have looked in a plug hole once and saw four reliefs. I suspect they are plain jane cheapo cast pistons. The only non stock rebuild part inside the engine is the Schneider cam, thats what I was told.
Matt

enjenjo

Quote from: "idrivejunk"They are 4X-4, as stated above. I knew that post was gonna be too long, should have broken it into multiples.

I didn't reference the head code specs because as I figured, whoever helps me would graciously link the info they prefer to trust. As you have.

A knock sensor would be great but Pontiacs never had them. Can they be added? I have not pulled heads on the 455 to see the pistons. I may have looked in a plug hole once and saw four reliefs. I suspect they are plain jane cheapo cast pistons. The only non stock rebuild part inside the engine is the Schneider cam, thats what I was told.

Yes, you can add the knock sensor. You do need an ignition box that can make use of it though.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

idrivejunk

Quote from: "enjenjo"
Quote from: "idrivejunk"They are 4X-4, as stated above. I knew that post was gonna be too long, should have broken it into multiples.

I didn't reference the head code specs because as I figured, whoever helps me would graciously link the info they prefer to trust. As you have.

A knock sensor would be great but Pontiacs never had them. Can they be added? I have not pulled heads on the 455 to see the pistons. I may have looked in a plug hole once and saw four reliefs. I suspect they are plain jane cheapo cast pistons. The only non stock rebuild part inside the engine is the Schneider cam, thats what I was told.

Yes, you can add the knock sensor. You do need an ignition box that can make use of it though.

No kidding? Got a link or name? I do have a new MSD billet distributor collecting dust but no coil. Adding electronics kills the deal though. I ordered a pair of tires today, teeny 255/60s. Safety first! :)
Matt

enjenjo

MSD makes some  ignition spark controls that will work with your MSD.  http://www.jegs.com/c/Ignition-Controls_Ignition-Control-Boxes/10385/10002/-1 . Find one with a knock sensor and go to town. You will have to lock out the advance on the MSD distributor, and let the control box do it for you.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

idrivejunk

Pontiac V8s were never equipped with knock sensors. I understand that knock sensors can be added with a box... if a knock sensor was designed for your engine. But Pontiac stopped producing V8s in 1979 so no sensor was developed for the engine, nor is there a mounting provision present. What am I missing, universal knock sensors? All that is beside the point though, because I don't think I got as big a refund as a person might imagine. Adding electronics breaks the deal, theres no money for that. The distributor I have is the ready to run pro billet.
Matt

enjenjo

Knock sensors are for the most part generic. All they are is a vibration detector.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

idrivejunk

So where would it go? Head or block. Do they go in a freeze plug hole or what? Buying an ignition box is out of the question for me on this.
Matt

enjenjo

Chevrolet had them in the coolant drain holes on the side of the block. Some Buicks had a boss on the block for it to screw in with 10mm threads, others had it screwed into the head with 3/8" 16 threads. Look through a catalog you will find several variations.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

idrivejunk

Last time I screwed something new into a casting, I cracked a head. :shock:  :oops:  :cry:

On a lighter note, I welded up a header pinhole today right under the floor hole. Not hearing suspicious sounds now. :idea: :arrow: I am due to recheck my balancer for slippage and confirm marks. If I did anything electronic, first item would be an A/F ratio gauge. I have stock secondary jets in an Eddy 1406. :roll:  She may lean out at WOT. :?:
Matt

chimp koose

I caution you about using an a/f  meter . They are good for closing in on an already close to tuned motor but are not a stand alone tuning tool . Ignition timing should be optimized before looking to the gage . I have seen guys pour more and more fuel at a lean a/f meter reading when a timing advance was what was needed . The more fuel added the leaner it read , until a decent amount of timing was added and it started to read pig rich . late timing causes elevated exh temps which cause a lean reading on the meter . Read plugs first then go to the a/f meter .

idrivejunk

OK... so the first step to replacing my worn cam with a similar one is buying electronics... that kills the whole thing. I'm out.

End of thread.

Point to ponder: Before knock sensors or air/fuel gauges... people replaced worn cams, changed heads, swapped cams, tuned distributors. I thought that know-how still existed. I was wrong.
Matt

idrivejunk

Quote from: "chimp koose"I caution you about using an a/f  meter . They are good for closing in on an already close to tuned motor but are not a stand alone tuning tool . Ignition timing should be optimized before looking to the gage . I have seen guys pour more and more fuel at a lean a/f meter reading when a timing advance was what was needed . The more fuel added the leaner it read , until a decent amount of timing was added and it started to read pig rich . late timing causes elevated exh temps which cause a lean reading on the meter . Read plugs first then go to the a/f meter .

CK and Frank, thanks for trying. What I'll have to do is remove and attempt to ID the cam by questioning the manufacturer, then replace only that and lifters.
Matt