PAW Engine kits

[soldermonkey]

Hello, This question has probably been answered a hunnert times but I missed all of them.

What is your experience with PAW? I am most concerned with the amount of over bore and the tolerance used to fit the forged pistons in their block kits. Basically how good is their attention to detail?
I have looked at the available crate motors and decided to build my own, a chev 350 somewhere in the 325-350 hp range.
I have all the needed measuring tools for the build.
My main focus is dependable street power.

I would use local machine shops but they all have a reputation of over priced mediocre work. The largest in the area is a rebuilder that specializes in rebuilds using blister pack parts from Brazil.

This engine will be put in a 47 Ford with a  700 R4 and will be street driven only.

Thanks for your help and opinions.

dave

[rumrumm]

I purchased a balanced crank kit from them several years ago and everthing was fine. But I have no experience with their block work. If you are concerned, you might want to get an assembled short block from one of the engine building vendors like Golan, American Speed, etc.

[purplepickup]

I don't know anything about the quality of PAW's machining.  I did get an engine kit to go in a 302 ford block I had machined locally and all the parts were name brands and good quality.  My PAW  catalog is 8 years old and the basic (cheapest) 350 long block kit is $1185 in it.  I'm sure it's more now.  Unless you're really wanting to build your own, I'd consider a new GM replacement crate engine.  It's around $1395.  Here's the specs I copied and pasted from Scoggin * Chevrolet  in Lubbock:

GM GOODWRENCH 5.7 LITER (UNIVERSAL ENGINE)  P/N 10067353      
350 CI V-8 1973-85
GM Goodwrench 36 months or 50,00 mile Engine Warranty.
   
The Goodwrench replacement engine is an ideal power plant for a performance enthusiast working on a budget. The 350ci Goodwrench small-block is assembled with all new components. It has an 8.5:1 compression ratio, four-bolt main bearing caps, a cast nodular iron crankshaft, and a hydraulic camshaft. The cylinder heads have 1.94" intake valves and 1.50" exhaust valves. The Goodwrench engine is a complete assembly, less intake and exhaust manifolds, torsional damper, water pump, pulleys, distributor, spark plugs, flywheel, clutch, and components. Includes: Timing cover, oil pan, and valve covers. Engine comes as shown in the pictures above.
     Equipped with a GM Performance Parts aluminum intake manifold, ignition system, and chromed accessories, a Goodwrench engine can provide exceptional performance in a street rod, street machine, pleasure boat, or truck. Approximate horsepower is 250 HP depending on how it is equipped.
    This Goodwrench engine is an excellent foundation for just about any year and any high performance project.
 

 GM GOODWRENCH 5.7 LITER (UNIVERSAL ENGINE) SPECIFICATIONS  
Horsepower¹: 249 HP @ 5,000 RPM Torque¹: 304 FT/LBS @ 3,500 RPM
Redline: 5,200 RPM Comp. Ratio: 8.50:1
Heads: Cast Iron, 72 cc Valves: 1.940" I, 1.500" E
Camshaft Lift: Hydraulic; 0.390" I , 0.410" E Duration @ 0.050": 195° I, 202° E
Block: 4 Bolt Main, 2 Piece Rear Main Seal, 4.000" Bore
Crankshaft: Cast Iron Nodular, 3.480" Stroke
Spark Plug: R44TS, Gap @ .035 For Points Distributor or .045 For HEI Distributor
Ignition Timing: For most applications it should be 10 to 12 BTDC°, Total timing, which includes base setting plus centrifugal advance, should not exceed 36°.
Note¹ - Numbers are for a engine that had a cast iron intake, Q-Jet Carb., HEI distributor, 1-5/8" headers and open exhaust installed prior to dyno testing.

[Dave]

I don't know anything about the quality of PAW's machining.  I did get an engine kit to go in a 302 ford block I had machined locally and all the parts were name brands and good quality.  My PAW  catalog is 8 years old and the basic (cheapest) 350 long block kit is $1185 in it.  I'm sure it's more now.  Unless you're really wanting to build your own, I'd consider a new GM replacement crate engine.  It's around $1395.  Here's the specs I copied and pasted from Scoggin * Chevrolet  in Lubbock:

GM GOODWRENCH 5.7 LITER (UNIVERSAL ENGINE)  P/N 10067353      
350 CI V-8 1973-85
GM Goodwrench 36 months or 50,00 mile Engine Warranty.
   
The Goodwrench replacement engine is an ideal power plant for a performance enthusiast working on a budget. The 350ci Goodwrench small-block is assembled with all new components. It has an 8.5:1 compression ratio, four-bolt main bearing caps, a cast nodular iron crankshaft, and a hydraulic camshaft. The cylinder heads have 1.94" intake valves and 1.50" exhaust valves. The Goodwrench engine is a complete assembly, less intake and exhaust manifolds, torsional damper, water pump, pulleys, distributor, spark plugs, flywheel, clutch, and components. Includes: Timing cover, oil pan, and valve covers. Engine comes as shown in the pictures above.
     Equipped with a GM Performance Parts aluminum intake manifold, ignition system, and chromed accessories, a Goodwrench engine can provide exceptional performance in a street rod, street machine, pleasure boat, or truck. Approximate horsepower is 250 HP depending on how it is equipped.
    This Goodwrench engine is an excellent foundation for just about any year and any high performance project.
 

 GM GOODWRENCH 5.7 LITER (UNIVERSAL ENGINE) SPECIFICATIONS  
Horsepower¹: 249 HP @ 5,000 RPM Torque¹: 304 FT/LBS @ 3,500 RPM
Redline: 5,200 RPM Comp. Ratio: 8.50:1
Heads: Cast Iron, 72 cc Valves: 1.940" I, 1.500" E
Camshaft Lift: Hydraulic; 0.390" I , 0.410" E Duration @ 0.050": 195° I, 202° E
Block: 4 Bolt Main, 2 Piece Rear Main Seal, 4.000" Bore
Crankshaft: Cast Iron Nodular, 3.480" Stroke
Spark Plug: R44TS, Gap @ .035 For Points Distributor or .045 For HEI Distributor
Ignition Timing: For most applications it should be 10 to 12 BTDC°, Total timing, which includes base setting plus centrifugal advance, should not exceed 36°.
Note¹ - Numbers are for a engine that had a cast iron intake, Q-Jet Carb., HEI distributor, 1-5/8" headers and open exhaust installed prior to dyno testing.

Im on my second gm replacement 8.50:1 engine in the 32 the first one i put in the 34. Im here to tell ya that you cant build one for what you can buy a new one for. Thats the key word NEW... This one seems to run as good as the first one. I like em and back to the new thing clean block no boiling needed and lack of boiling before a rebuild can cause overheating.
No over bore either .
just my nickle
Dave

[Bib_Overalls]

PAW has done the machining on a number of Chevy High Performance magazine project motors.  Seems to be a good sign.

Shipping is an issue.  Get a quote before you order.  I don't think PAW's free shipping offer applies to engine blocks.  

You should be able to source a block in your area. Talk to the rodders and racers in your area.  They will turn you on to a quality shop.  The guy that did my machining has a small shop and some old equipment.  He builds race motors and his motors win a lot.  

I built the motor in my 32.  I could have had a GM crate motor for a bit less.  But I got the satisfaction of building it myself and that is priceless.

Bought most of my parts from PAW.  Good prices and good service.  Also buy from Summit Racing.  Have not used Jegs.  All three are competitors.  So check prices before you order.

[Pope Downunder]

Hello, This question has probably been answered a hunnert times but I missed all of them.

What is your experience with PAW? I am most concerned with the amount of over bore and the tolerance used to fit the forged pistons in their block kits. Basically how good is their attention to detail?
I have looked at the available crate motors and decided to build my own, a chev 350 somewhere in the 325-350 hp range.
I have all the needed measuring tools for the build.
My main focus is dependable street power.

I would use local machine shops but they all have a reputation of over priced mediocre work. The largest in the area is a rebuilder that specializes in rebuilds using blister pack parts from Brazil.

This engine will be put in a 47 Ford with a  700 R4 and will be street driven only.

Thanks for your help and opinions.

dave

Check out this place in Dallas.
http://www.goautocenter.com/

[soldermonkey]

Thanks to all who took the time to express their opinions, experiances and to list the technical info.
All the help is greatly appreciated.
I will take all in consideration as I build my car.
I will return to do more brain picking, and post a photo now and then, this is the best of the streetrod forums.

Thanks all
dave