No run puzzle.

Started by Okiedokie, July 19, 2017, 11:02:03 PM

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Okiedokie

I am trying to fire the 302 Ford motor in my current project. Newly rewired with an EZ Wire kit. New HEI distributor [same one used for the dyno run] new PowerMaster starter. The problem is that it fires when starter is engaged but dies when ignition switch [new Ron Francis] is released to run. There is 12 volts at the batt terminal on the HEI. I am using an FI Tech injection unit. There is 12 volts to it in run and crank as they require. I tried jumping from the alt batt terminal to the HEI and to the FI Tech but still experience the same no run problem. I am puzzled. Can anyone help me solve this ?

enjenjo

The problem is the ignition switch.When going from start to run it picks up the power from a different source. In the time it take to go from start to run it lacks power long enough for the engine to stall.  Call Ron Francis and see what they say.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Okiedokie

I will call them today, but I thought that by getting 12v from the alternator to the HEI I was taking the switch out of the picture?

enjenjo

You sure you are powering the right terminal at the HEI?
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Okiedokie

Yes, batt terminal, not tach.

416Ford

Okiedokie, have you pulled the cap to check and see if the power is truely connected at the plug? I have had the contact miss the plug with these before and not contact.
As enjenjo said, you have two different powers sources, one for starting and one for running. I can not help with EFI questions at all. Greek to me.
You never have time to do it right the first time but you always have time to do it again.

Okiedokie

I will check that for sure, thanks.

kb426

Am I correct in thinking that you are using the switched power to the alternator for the hei feed and not the 12v battery connection? Where does your ignition from the efi come from? Is it not connected to the ignition circuit or is it a controller in the system? From what I keep reading, all efi circuits need to run directly to the battery and not be shared with any components that cause electrical noise.
TEAM SMART

Okiedokie

Although the tech at FI Tech said the 12v supply to the ECU only needed 12v in crank and run he did not say anything about hwere to get it from. I had it connected at a 12v supply for a relay panel. I tied  the EFI feed to the HEI coil connection and bingo it started. Thanks for all the input and to kb426 for making me think to change that connection. Puzzle solved.

58 Yeoman

Another satisfied customer rolls out the door... :D
I survived the Hyfrecator 2000.

"Life is what happens when you're making other plans."
1967 Corvair 500 2dr Hardtop
1967 Corvair 500 4dr Hardtop
Phil

kb426

Just in case you haven't seen this, all modern efi units have a separate relay for the ecu and the fuel pump. There feed runs directly to the battery. There are sellers on ebay that you can buy the 30 amp relays and pigtails for not much money. You can also visit the salvage yard and get the power distribution box from a later model vehicle, relays and fuses in one box.  One of my friends tried hooking his ecu to the battery post on the alternator without success. It would make the ecu crazy about every 15 miles.
TEAM SMART

UGLY OLDS

What is this "ECI-HEI-EFI-ECM" stuff you speak of   :?:  :?:

  Something to do wit da gas-o-drizzler & schparkenmaker   :?:  :?:  :oops:  :lol:

Bob.. :wink:
1940 Oldsmobile- The "Ugly Olds"
1931 Ford sedan- Retirement project

***** First Member of Team Smart*****

kb426

Bob, I think you got it figured out! :)
TEAM SMART

Okiedokie

FI Tech does not require separate relays.