drip rails

moose · January 21, 2017, 11:36:01 AM

Got the Coupe back from media blasting and am proceeding with the finish body work. Is there a good technique / product to seal behind the drip rails? I replaced them as part of repairing the body. they were weld thru primed before they were plug welded from the back. I am sure that is not adequate for rust prevention and I do not want rust bleeding down the road. It WILL see water !

Thanks

Tim

kb426 · January 21, 2017, 03:51:07 PM

I wish I had a good answer. I used sealer around mine but I wouldn't say that was a good method. I'm going to remove the old ones from my 32 and replace them with new so I'm ready for ideas also.

idrivejunk · January 21, 2017, 07:28:51 PM

I'm not familiar with your car's body but it sounds like a place for an "internal panel coating" applied with a wand / nozzle. Perhaps drilling a small hidden hole for the nozzle if needed would be worth it.

Here is a search, several brands mentioned (rust fighter is the one I've used):

https://www.google.com/#q=automotive+internal+panel+coating

It doesn't have to be that wax / oil stuff though, any paint would work if you can get it in there. Just don't use spray foam, that would make it worse!

ragdol · January 21, 2017, 11:48:14 PM

I use a self leveling sealer. I don't have the no., but could get it if need be. Make sure to tape up the ends of the rails as the sealer will run down the pillar. looks good, & seals well.

moose · January 22, 2017, 08:55:24 AM

Quote from: "idrivejunk"I'm not familiar with your car's body but it sounds like a place for an "internal panel coating" applied with a wand / nozzle. Perhaps drilling a small hidden hole for the nozzle if needed would be worth it.

Here is a search, several brands mentioned (rust fighter is the one I've used):

https://www.google.com/#q=automotive+internal+panel+coating

It doesn't have to be that wax / oil stuff though, any paint would work if you can get it in there. Just don't use spray foam, that would make it worse!

Attached is a pic of the rails.

Charlie Chops 1940 · January 22, 2017, 10:27:55 AM

I've used 3M "Heavy Drip-Chek Sealer" for years . 5 oz. tube is P/N 08531. I think it also comes in a big tube suitable for a caulking gun but it doesn't have a good shelf life in that form once used opened. I'm doing a "40 Ford coupe right now and may go get a caulking gun tube as it's gonna take a lot more to finish the job.

Canuck · January 22, 2017, 12:04:35 PM

Went through this process a couple of years ago on my 30 coupe. Here is what I did, right or wrong.

Drip rails were removed and repaired and outside metal pre-ped for repaint. Holes in roof area were masked on inside to prevent paint getting through. All outside surfaces and drip rails were coated with PPG DP40 for protection. Masking removed from inside and edges of holes cleaned to bare metal for welding. Drip rails set in place and marked where holes were, primer removed from those areas. This was to insure a clean area for welding.

Drip rails clamped in place and roset welded to body.

Seam between drip rail and body sealed with Sika Sikaflex a 1K sealer on all 4 sides, forcing it into the area between the drip rail and body as much as possible. The outside surface cleaned off and smoothed, leaving minimal sealer exposed to the enviroment.

Body was then primed with DP40 on the inside to seal up surface from moisture. then painted inside and out with Urethane paint.

From examining the drip rails during de-construction, it looks like they were just spot welded on and the car painted. That process was adequate for it to survive nearly 90 years. My repair should last for at least 10 or 20.

Sorry, only shot I have is prior to application of seam sealer and final paint. Still looks good, but only had the car on the road this past summer.

Canuck

moose · January 29, 2017, 12:23:27 PM

Quote from: "Charlie Chops 1940"I've used 3M "Heavy Drip-Chek Sealer" for years . 5 oz. tube is P/N 08531. I think it also comes in a big tube suitable for a caulking gun but it doesn't have a good shelf life in that form once used opened. I'm doing a "40 Ford coupe right now and may go get a caulking gun tube as it's gonna take a lot more to finish the job.

Charlie,
That looks like the best choice for me. Did you apply it to the bare surface or did you prime the surface first?

Thanks

moose

Charlie Chops 1940 · January 29, 2017, 01:51:51 PM

Quote from: "moose"
Quote from: "Charlie Chops 1940"I've used 3M "Heavy Drip-Chek Sealer" for years . 5 oz. tube is P/N 08531. I think it also comes in a big tube suitable for a caulking gun but it doesn't have a good shelf life in that form once used opened. I'm doing a "40 Ford coupe right now and may go get a caulking gun tube as it's gonna take a lot more to finish the job.

Charlie,
That looks like the best choice for me. Did you apply it to the bare surface or did you prime the surface first?

Thanks

moose

Tim, I primered first. I just ordered 3 tubes off Amazon. I noticed that they list a Delco product in a caulking gun tube - about 10 ounces I think. I might order one and compare. Just a thought.

Charlie

moose · January 29, 2017, 01:58:11 PM

I would think 5 oz would be more than adequate for my coupe. 10 oz would be wasted...

moose · April 06, 2017, 06:43:22 AM

[quote="

Thanks

moose[/quote]

Tim, I primered first. I just ordered 3 tubes off Amazon. I noticed that they list a Delco product in a caulking gun tube - about 10 ounces I think. I might order one and compare. Just a thought.

Charlie[/quote]

So Charlie did you order and try the Delco product? If so how did it compare to the 3M?

moose