Strut rod bushing eliminators

Started by jaybee, September 28, 2019, 09:15:15 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

jaybee

I'm sort of throwing a thought experiment out here, but I couldn't think of a place with a better group of grass roots builders and fabricators. I hope the topic interests someone.

Falcon-bodies Fords don't seem to have strut rod eliminators unless the car is built with an MII suspension. Lots of work and a pretty significant amount of money for little gain in geometry. Except, of course, that the strut rod bushings lead to a significant amount of caster change under braking.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPhRhZYLTpI

NOT the best setup for handling. Polyurethane strut rod bushings are out there, but they have a reputation for breaking strut rods because the durometer is too high. The strut rod can't pivot at its attachment but is forced to bend in the area of the threads closest to the lower control arm. The solution is strut rods with ball joint ends. They're out there, but they're pretty pricey. Oh, and as you can see they have no boots to keep water and dirt out.
https://www.cjponyparts.com/total-control-products-adjustable-strut-rod-with-pivot-joint-pair-1967/p/TCPSTRD06SVH/

The high price of units like these leads people to look for lower priced alternatives. Nothing wrong with that, obviously. Most of them adapt heim joints to the end of a shortened strut rod. Not a bad solution. The mounts for the original strut rods surround them on 3 sides, so the bolts can be in double shear. Normally they're installed with the pivot bolts either just ahead or behind where the stock bushings are sandwiched in double shear. Again, sealing from dirt and water is an issue. The setup looks like this:


What other alternatives might be out there? The CJ Pony Parts units look a lot like a rebuildable inner tie rod end from a rack and pinion setup. Would such a tie rod end be strong enough for the forces involved? Oh...and it needs a boot.


Here's another possibility, but I have reservations. This is a spherical plain bearing (basically a rod end) with a mounting plate. I'm not sure what to call this for search purposes, but my biggest concern is if it's OK to put the loads required on this unit. I know I'm being redundant, but obviously this isn't sealed.
https://www.vintageraceworks.com/products/spherical-strut-rods

My own thinking on the subject leads me to something else. Maybe adapt an outer tie rod end. It would point up and socket into an appropriate tapered mount like you'd use for a radius rod.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Frame-Mount-Plate-for-Tie-Rod-Ends-Pair,215975.html?sku=916031015&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=CjwKCAjwibzsBRAMEiwA1pHZrnALd1oPv5OhcjBhuV1R-4BVn08D2X7XJwRDm8DqWaqsFYxJddNGAhoCuGUQAvD_BwE
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. Eric Hoffer  (1902 - 1983)

enjenjo

What about something like this https://www.currieenterprises.com/CE-9112  There are several sizes, some with a forged threaded rod as part of the housing.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

jaybee

Quote from: "enjenjo"What about something like this https://www.currieenterprises.com/CE-9112  There are several sizes, some with a forged threaded rod as part of the housing.

Thanks Frank, that's a perfect solution. They're sealed, greasable, and tough enough for 4x4 use. They're available with 3/4" LH or RH threads, and the Ford strut rods are 3/4" diameter most of their length. Cut off the end of the strut rod, thread it, connect with a steel tube of appropriate size, add a couple of jam nuts...done!
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. Eric Hoffer  (1902 - 1983)

jaybee

After a quick search I see that swedged steel tubes with 3/4" RH/LH threads are readily available. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Swedged-Steel-Tube-3-4-Inch-Thread,2091.html?sku=91034234-10

Add universal ball joint boots on each side to keep the weather out.  https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hdt-ca-029?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrMHsBRCIARIsAFgSeI1fc4vayJNurRQxlyzO6SmIvnn_ar8_GidahX9KcJmQE0vnTCnjHg4aAk9GEALw_wcB

Cut the strut rods to an appropriate length, thread, drill holes for the Johnny Joint cross shaft...done.

WAY less than the $400-$600 commercially-available units, way more weather resistant than the home builds with regular heim joints.
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. Eric Hoffer  (1902 - 1983)

butch27

Jonny joints are used on a lot of heavy duty off road machines..