Fighting with the Ford brakes/ 88 f150 2wd

[rooster]

Fighting with the Ford brakes/ 88 f150 2wd

Ive been trying to get the truck road worthy for a few weeks, I'm stumped!

It seems the brakes drag on the front left, slightly! Can hear the drag at about 30 MPH,
slighty!

resent history:

rear brakes
All new! drums, shoes, hardware, e-brake cables

front brakes drivers side
calper, brake hose,bearings and seal, rotor turned, no obstructions (didnt need any of
these things) noise still there!

Master cylinder new (bench bled) shimmed it about 1/8th ", no change!
system bled (I thought)

I got under truck and followed the brake lines looking for a kink and found this: PIC


What is it ? There is a bleeder on it that I missed! Could this thing be causing my problem?

[34ford]

Go to this link.  http://www.f150forum.com/f88/proportioning-valve-211267/

They say it's the ABS valve and usually doesn't need bleeding.

[rooster]

Go to this link.  http://www.f150forum.com/f88/proportioning-valve-211267/

They say it's the ABS valve and usually doesn't need bleeding.

Did some looking around there last night! They also say its rear wheel ABS only.  I'm getting mixed signals about what this thing does, if it rear wheel only, why does it have input lines from the master and out put lines to the 4 wheels?

Anyway, my ABS light has been on sence I got the truck about 20 years ago!

I removed the bleeder and there was no juice in it, pumped up the brakes and bled it, then bled the entire system. Then came back to the ABS bleeder and bled it again , still had fluid and no air.

Took the truck for a spin and the slight drag in the L front is still there at 30 mph .

Moving the steering wheel from L to R makes the sound chance.

I'm not ruleing out this valve for the rear ABS brakes as the cause of the drag sence it does have lines from masters front disk connected to it.

Don't know what to try next, maybe bypass it!

[PeterR]

Took the truck for a spin and the slight drag in the L front is still there at 30 mph .

Moving the steering wheel from L to R makes the sound chance.

Into the long-shot department here, but worth considering.    I have experienced a similar situation when the sheet metal splash shield had been distorted and just touched the inside face of the rotor.   Turning the steering wheel from L-R causes the rotor/hub assembly to tilt slightly on the bearing clearance altering the pressure of the shield on the rotor face and changes the rubbing sound.

[1800guy]

I have no Ford-specific knowledge, but my first thought would be to double check the adjustment on the front wheel bearings.  What happens if you ride the pedal very lightly and then veer left and right - any pulsation?

[rooster]

Into the long-shot department here, but worth considering.    I have experienced a similar situation when the sheet metal splash shield had been distorted and just touched the inside face of the rotor.   Turning the steering wheel from L-R causes the rotor/hub assembly to tilt slightly on the bearing clearance altering the pressure of the shield on the rotor face and changes the rubbing sound.[/quote]




I've checked the shield and seen no evidence of contact anywhere, even checked the smaller shield that surrounds the hubs grease seal.

Something else I tried was to turn the engine off at around 40 mph just incase  the steering pump was making noise. My hearing not the best.

I think its the pads making contact slighty. When I put the new caliper on it seemed to fit well, it was relaxed in its mounting bracket, I could move it slighty on its greased drive pins (slides),  When I use the brake on the frist try the caliper is then tightened up and I can't move it, not relaxed as much as it should be. The rotor will turn but not a free as it should be.

For a test I cracked a brake bleeder loose and pried the caliper piston back with a screwdriver, the rotor then was totally free. When I go back to use the brake again it does not totally released again.

I think I need to do the same test above and take it for a short trip to see if sound is still there, I'll have to do it without stepping on the brake.

[rooster]

Go to this link.  http://www.f150forum.com/f88/proportioning-valve-211267/

They say it's the ABS valve and usually doesn't need bleeding.

Did some looking around there last night! They also say its rear wheel ABS only.  I'm getting mixed signals about what this thing does, if it rear wheel only, why does it have input lines from the master and out put lines to the 4 wheels?



I'm not ruleing out this valve for the rear ABS brakes as the cause of the drag sence it does have lines from masters front disk connected it

WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Looking closer that valve has 2 lines connected to it. 1 from the master and 1 to the rear brakes. The line coming from the master to the valve has a  Proportioning  valve (p-valve) on it

The front brake circuit go's to a tee then to the caliper's. No rabs involved.

Not raining today gonna do some more on it.

[wayne petty]

For a test I cracked a brake bleeder loose and pried the caliper piston back with a screwdriver, the rotor then was totally free. When I go back to use the brake again it does not totally released again.

slight variation on the test ..

wheel up in the air.. apply then release brakes.. caliper drag...yes.. open bleeder screw. close bleeder screw.. caliper drag yes or no..

if you loose the drag by just opening the bleeder screw... apply and release the brakes again to get caliper to drag..

use two tools to release the brake hose to the hard line on the frame rail..  does the caliper release??? yes or no..  hint.. tighten fitting ever so slightly.. this may bust it loose so it will loosen easily.. please shoot it with wd40 first.. let it soak for a few minutes.. then hit it with some brake cleaner.. you don't want WD40 inside the brake system

brake hoses are multi layer and have been known to collapse an internal layer and hang up the free release of fluid from the calipers..

if the caliper releases at the chassis end of the brake hose.. go up farther.. to the next connection.. either at the brake safety valve or that device in the frame rail.  or at the master cylinder..

you might want to invest in a pair of speed bleeders for the front calipers.. put the one in the offending caliper.. but use a little teflon tape part way up the threads so non can get into the caliper.. but it will seal the partially open bleeder screw threads to the speed bleeder.  put some vacuum or clear vinyl hose on it.. and pump the master a few half strokes.. or 3/4 strokes.. i have been avoiding full stroking brake masters with power brake boosters lately as i have had some reman booster failures..


oh.. and the valve pictured is a
ford basic part number  2B373   
ABS Control Module Skid control valve

[rooster]

Haven't done anything on it for afew days,

I did swap  master cyl (no change)

Also did pass side caliper and hose, supply line also sence I twisted it getting the hose off.

re-bleed everything ( no change, sound still there)

At this point were just going to drive it and wear those pads abit and see what happens.

This truck just sits to much, probly 500 miles in 5 years. It's our backup!

[UGLY OLDS]

Haven't done anything on it for afew days,

I did swap  master cyl (no change)

Also did pass side caliper and hose, supply line also sence I twisted it getting the hose off.

re-bleed everything ( no change, sound still there)

At this point were just going to drive it and wear those pads abit and see what happens.

This truck just sits to much, probly 500 miles in 5 years. It's our backup!

 Be careful doing that ...I really believe  that's what did in the frame on my GMC ... It sat WAY to much without being used .....


Now it's going to be scrapped with 120K miles .....  


Bob....

[rooster]

Now he rest of the story:

Finally found the draging noise! It was a inner wheel bearing on pass side, I'll bet I installed the old bearing when I replaced the rotor, and threw away the new one!  State inspection found it. :oops: