Flathead price?

[jaybee]

What price would you ask if you had a decent-looking flathead core for sale? Unsure of stud count or year (it's not mine). No heads or intake, water pumps are there as are all the rotating/reciprocating parts. Cylinder walls have surface rust so it's definitely headed for the machine shop first. It's been sitting on its bellhousing in an unheated shed (wood floor, not sitting in the dirt) for God knows how many years but looks intact other than as noted.

[phat rat]

Is it seized  or does it turn? What series? I bought a 49-53 complete and not seized about 3 years ago. If I remember correctly I sold it for around $375.

[jaybee]

OK, not big bucks but not insignificant then. Haven't put a wrench on it to see if it'll turn.

[Rrumbler]

A couple of things: Siezed?  Cracked?  Clean off the  decks and valves with solvent or some such, look for cracks from the valve seats to the cylinders and the water passages, and the water passages to the cylinders and between the cylinders.  The ones that are really bad are the valves and the cylinder cracks, also look in the bores for cracks that go to the water jacket. Check the bottom end, too; the main bearing webs and the crankcase walls.  If it is not seized, even if it has fatal cracking, the rotating assembly is worth something; an 8BA crank in decent condition might get a C-note or maybe two, but an 8CM Merc "stroker"will fetch near three hundred or maybe more, and the rods are useful, too.  One more thing: if it is sound looking, check the bore dimensions; if it has been bored, have it x-rayed to make sure the cylinder walls have enough meat in them to clean up if necessary.  A good condition 8BA might be worth 2 bills, a Merc will fetch more; a 59AB might get 2.  But rebuilding/restoring one is an expensive proposition, and there are not a lot of shops around anymore that can reliably do work on one.  If it is an early one, 21 stud, same caveats apply, but rarity will have a bearing on the price.

[Uncle Bob]

Some good tips so far, just to add a couple more possibilities.  If allowed to freeze with water/coolant in them they'll split along or just above the pan rail.  The best way to make a buck on these is pulling the heads for sure, and the pan as a bonus, especially if it doesn't turn.  The max safe over bore is .125 if all is well with the cylinder wall thickness, the closer it's been over bored to that number the lower the value.

I just sold an 8ba that looked very good in the crack zones noted above (did a good clean up for buyer inspection), got $425.  It was standard bore, good valves, and good overall appearance, and I caught a buyer when he was ready/needy.  When I've bought in recent years I wouldn't give more than $100 if I couldn't take off the heads, and then it had to turn freely and not look like it was abused in use or storage (whatever that means, too much to explain).  Some sellers not in the know would complain that it "lowered the value" to take off the heads.  If I couldn't convince them a serious flathead buyer wouldn't buy one without being able to inspect for the common cracking they weren't going to sell.  Making it easier for the buyer is to your advantage.

59ab engines top the list for desirability and can clear $500 if they inspect well, and as mentioned the 4" strokes are very desirable.  21 studs are a mixed bag.  I've got a nice '37 for sale right now that's .060 over and no visible cracks, selling complete with all accessories.  For the buyer interested, mostly the restoration guys, but also a few hard core early style rodders, it is a bit more desirable because of the insert mains/rods.  But it's a more limited market than for the 24 studs so I expect it will take longer for a real buyer to find my ad.  I'm asking $500 and have gotten some nibbles but no pics of Ben yet.  Like I said, you've got to find your buyer with these, or bomb the price and let someone think they've "stolen" it.