Chevy power steering

ragdol · September 14, 2013, 12:45:24 AM

I've got a Heidts IFS in a '51 Chevy P/U. It steers much too quick. I've got the reducing valve in the GM Saginaw ham can pump, '85 T'bird rack. Still steers too quick, so I bought the washer kit, & installed 4 washers. Still steers too quick, but the pressure is definitly lower, better road feel. I'm using regular power steering fluid, would changing to ATF make a difference, or am I missing something. I've got the thing for sale, & I'd like to sort this out.

chris spokes · September 14, 2013, 05:24:17 PM

have you tried longer steering arms :?: i had the same problem with my aussie GM when i went from manual to power steer

enjenjo · September 14, 2013, 10:11:11 PM

What ar the alignment specs?

ragdol · September 14, 2013, 10:49:21 PM

Chris I have a rack, so no steering arms. Specs are 1/8" toe, 3.2 pos castor, which is the most we could get & keep the camber in spec. I removed the belt from the power steering & it ran down the road fine. I don't think there is anything wrong with the geometry. I have another new rack I'll put in tomorrow to make sure the valving in the first rack wasn't the problem. Here's hoping.

wayne petty · September 14, 2013, 11:51:50 PM

Quote from: "ragdol"I've got a Heidts IFS in a '51 Chevy P/U. It steers much too quick. I've got the reducing valve in the GM Saginaw ham can pump, '85 T'bird rack. Still steers too quick, so I bought the washer kit, & installed 4 washers. Still steers too quick, but the pressure is definitly lower, better road feel. I'm using regular power steering fluid, would changing to ATF make a difference, or am I missing something. I've got the thing for sale, & I'd like to sort this out.

i am taking that you got this info..

http://www.customclassictrucks.com/techarticles/1209cct_perfect_power_steering/viewall.html

but there are several different displacement pumps..

and the HEX head fitting with the tubular section that holds the piston in place.. has several different opening sizes to limit the flow into the hose and forces more thru the bypass..

so you have a set of drill bits.. so you can just .. LIKE its easy to do.. remove the pressure hose.. with a 1" wrench remove the big hex from the back of the pump without loosing the piston and spring.. and check the tiny hole size in the middle.. that is the limit on the VOLUME..

the shims adjust the pressure the system limits...

but the opening size in the outlet in photo 11 in the linked article above is where your issue is...

or you have one of the larger displacement power steering pumps..

what size outlet do you have?

?

how do i know i am right.. because reducing that size.. by changing the part.. not welding up and redrilling as its a smooth taper to reduce tearing the power steering fluid as it cycles thru at high speeds..

gm on some 98 gm pickups actually used a solenoid around a spring loaded plunger to reduce volume flow on these to reduce twitchyness..

you have the choice to also go to a LARGER diameter power steering pulley.. this slows the pump down slightly.. this change in pulley diameter is not really going to effect in for your issue. it would be more for not enough flow and to speed the pump up to match the engine speeds...

this is one of the possible answers... and if you installed one.. could the part inside the package have been swapped by some lowlife and returned..

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustang-II-Power-Steering-Flow-Valve-for-GM-Pump-2-GPM,5852.html

this link has a few pdf files attached.. to learn how to change the flow.. i have not read them yet..

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/KRC-Power-Steering-25304000-Pump-Flow-Control-Valve-105-GPM-ID4,4805.html

enjenjo · September 15, 2013, 10:37:30 PM

Quote from: "ragdol"Chris I have a rack, so no steering arms. Specs are 1/8" toe, 3.2 pos castor, which is the most we could get & keep the camber in spec. I removed the belt from the power steering & it ran down the road fine. I don't think there is anything wrong with the geometry. I have another new rack I'll put in tomorrow to make sure the valving in the first rack wasn't the problem. Here's hoping.

If you have radial tires, you can reduce the toe in, and that will help it track better.

Pete · September 16, 2013, 01:31:33 PM

Am I missing something here?
When he says it steers too quick, I take that to mean the mechanical ratio is too fast. (Too few turns lock to lock)
Changing the amount of assist isn't going to help there.

40cpe · September 17, 2013, 04:42:54 PM

If you have radial tires, you can reduce the toe in, and that will help it track better.[/quote]

I agree. For years I drove around with 1/8" toe-in and a twitch in the steering wheel when I hit a bump. I reduced it to 1/16" and it nearly all went away. I've been thinking I would experiment farther with it but I guess it is all right or i would have by now.