GM 10 bolt rearend/broken bolt that secures center pin

rooster · July 19, 2013, 10:13:58 AM

While trying to remove the axels to replace bearing and seals for a 81 El
Camino we broke the bolt that holds the center pin in place!

Anyone had any experence with drilling and removing the bolt with a EZ
out?

Its about a 5/16 bolt with a pin on the end!

Here is a picture of what the bolt looks like!

enjenjo · July 19, 2013, 11:27:45 AM

I have removed several of theses for a local body shop. Turn the differential so you can get to the other end of the bolt. drill or grind a 3/16 hole so you can get a punch on the end of the bolt, and tap it out. The bolt is hardened and near impossible to drill out.

rooster · July 19, 2013, 12:24:41 PM

Quote from: "enjenjo"I have removed several of theses for a local body shop. Turn the differential so you can get to the other end of the bolt. drill or grind a 3/16 hole so you can get a punch on the end of the bolt, and tap it out. The bolt is hardened and near impossible to drill out.

Not sure what you mean!

Here's what Greg has in the truck! I placed a socket where the broken bolt is located, we only got the threaded part out, the pin and maybe a few threds remain!

wayne petty · July 19, 2013, 05:49:30 PM

there are various brands of these...

central tools 6543 Scribers 8" long with 90 degree bend.

http://www.centraltools.com/specialty.html

many hardware and tool stores carry these..

general tool

380A or 380B or 80 which is a single tool...

i use the pointy end to go deep into the hole and catch the step on the end of the broken stub.. -,_ then i can slowly work it out by spinning it outwards..

you do have to center the cross shaft to remove any side loading on this..

over the past 30 years.. i have not been defeated to where i had to resort to destructive stuff to remove the broken stub in over 40 rear end jobs..

the dorman products part number for the PINION SHAFT LOCK BOLT is 81048.. and they are usually hanging on display out on a peg board in the isles.. they may or may not be near the big help section.. i have found some near the gear oil header display ..

rooster · July 19, 2013, 06:07:54 PM

I got a new bolt today! Set it in place to get a better idea of whats going on! The fastening bolt appears to pass through the center pin!

On a tip from Wayne we installed a ice pick into the hole and was able to back out the broken bolt a few threds! To complete getting the bolt out we used some super magnets from a hard drive and pulled it out.

All is well!

enjenjo · July 19, 2013, 06:17:00 PM

I see you got it. For any one else that can't get it, the drill method will work. Drill the hole right at the end of the pin, where the yellow circle is, and work the remainder out with a punch. You may have to get creative with the punch This is a fairly common problem for body shops when the wheel gets hit on the end bending the axle.

rooster · July 19, 2013, 06:17:48 PM

We have the axels out, 1 show some pits but no ware grove! Can we use standard bearings?

enjenjo · July 19, 2013, 06:27:15 PM

You need an axle saver bearing. I moves the area the bearing rides on to avoid the grooves.

wayne petty · July 19, 2013, 06:48:13 PM

you need repair bearings on both axles..

please polish the smooth part of the axle all the way to the back of the outer flange so the new repair bearing and seal will have a nice surface to ride on..

i normally use some 600 or 1200 wet or dry paper just to smooth it down..

there are OEM brand Rear axle bearing remover set

Part Number: 27129

http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/grn/27129/image/4/

these devices slip thru the seal and bearing.. the plate straightens up... then a slide hammer is used to yank the tool.. bearing and seal straight out..

this usually requires the rental of the 5/8 slide hammer..there is a chance the washer is large enough to push against the axle housing end to pull it..

when there is surface damage.. you will have to use the repair bearings..

and a HUGE HINT..

i was in a jegs catalog.. and they had EXCELLENT pricing on replacement street axles for most of the C clip applications..

the catalog was last years.. and they were 99 bucks each.. thats a lot cheeper than other places..

rooster · July 19, 2013, 07:37:50 PM

The bearing and seal came out with 1 wack from the slide hammers! The pass side the bearing fell apart, bearings everwhere! Looking at the bearing it says made in China! The seal made in Tiawain!

For the repair bearing the parts store wants to know what ring gear! How do I figure that? Measure from the edge of the gear to the center, then X2?

enjenjo · July 19, 2013, 08:03:22 PM

Unless it's something special, it will have a 7.5 ring gear. Take the cover with you to the auto parts store, and he can figure it out from that.

tomslik · July 20, 2013, 09:01:20 AM

forget the "axle saver" bearings, they'll just leak next year....you need new axles and bearings+seals

kb426 · July 20, 2013, 07:39:30 PM

You guys did well. This is a great place.

rooster · July 20, 2013, 11:17:22 PM

We got the new Axel saver bearings in, and new brakes on the rear, the bearings stick out 1/8" on each side evenly! Son drove it around about 5 miles, no leaks! Have to wait until next year, I hope not!

We did get a brake light though! If I remember this right! We will open the left front bleeder and spike the brakes (not letting up on pedal) if the light go's out , close the bleeder. Then bleed the brakes calmly! So we don't disturb the p-valve!

I found a utube on another approach at removing that pin. Rather burtal I thought! but he was replacing everything!
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/engines_drivetrain/driveshaft_rearend/sucs_0707_chevrolet_camaro_rearend_build/photo_06.html