SBC manifold coolant leak.

[chimp koose]

Ok,so today I park my 92 chev 1/2 ton and coolant starts to run down the back of the block. I located the leak to a corroded fitting into the pass side rear of the intake that hooks to a metal section of pipe going to the heater core(rubber hose for the last bit).I suspect this is a pipe thread fitting and due to the corrosion ,I expect the removal shall be somewhat dramatic before stories end.I have never removed a pipe from one of those quick connect couplers before either.Anyone have a few pointers? My tolerance for less than straight forward automotive repairs has hit an all time low lately.Thanks in advance.

[wayne petty]

there are aluminum/zinc casting replacement heater core quick connects and then there are steel versions..

if you have the choice... go steel...

the replacement tubing is available also... with a short section of hose attached or separately....

you can also .. if you get the quick connect out.. install a conventional pipe thread hose barb.. or heater hose fitting.. that usually has a single lump hose barb instead of a bunch of tapers..

whats interesting..  is dorman products makes a special tapered easy out just for this application where the factory quick connect has broken off in the block...

HEAT... localized over the thread area in the intake.. when you are trying to remove the broken piece .. or when trying to unscrew ..the complete quick connect...  there is what is more than likely RED or WHITE locktite on the threads..

.. or plan on pulling the intake.. and then changing the oil.. warning.. there is a big puddle of hot water in a TBI only water passage that will just ruin your day if you don't use a shop vacuum to pull all the coolant out of the intake before you loosen it or attempt to lift it off..

before the dorman easy out was available it tried a whole bunch of ways to get them out..

i usually ended up with the manifold on the work bench..
with a broken fine tooth hack saw blade in a holder.. with the back ground down.. and cutting several pie cuts into the broken stub..  i was then able to use a carbide scribe to knock bits of it out and then cut more away to finally collapse it ..

what a pain...  and i am good at getting broken bolts out after running the cylinder head rebuilding department back in the mid 90s..



this shows the quick connects and more... and the removal tool.. 800-408

http://www.dormanproducts.com/documents4rb/135-145QuickDisconnectBuyersGuide.pdf

[rooster]

http://www.roddingroundtable.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12430&highlight=

[chimp koose]

Thanks guys ,I appreciate the quick replies.I am likely going to put a regular hose barb in to replace the metal line with an all rubber hose deal.I may as well take my easy out collection with me to do the removal, the leak is a bubbled out spot of corrosion at the base of the hex on the fitting. I did not know they used lok tite on them.Thanks Wayne for the heads up on that and the part #s . I have a half a mind to just J-B weld a hose fitting into the remnants of the quick connect fitting when it inevitably breaks off in the manifold.

[chimp koose]

WOO HOO! the fitting came out easy,no problems at all. $9 fix. Then I saw a puddle  under my daughter's truck.Water Pump seal/351W. All the bolts came out except 2 that are open to the back that broke off. I will check to see if the timing chain needs replacing before attempting to remove those ones as they might be an easier fix with the timing cover off. I kind of want to advance the cam in that one anyhow.With this kind of luck on the repairs I feel like getting a lottery ticket.