Brake fittings

enjenjo · May 01, 2013, 09:37:31 AM

I am replumbing the brakes on Josh's Mustang. Not all the fittings are the same. Some are inverted flares, and some are bubble flares. On the combo valve, the topside fittings are inverted flare, and the bottom are bubble flare. Makes it kind of a pain the connect every thing up. fortunately I have flaring tools and fittings for both.

Crosley.In.AZ · May 01, 2013, 09:45:48 AM

Quote from: "enjenjo"I am replumbing the brakes on Josh's Mustang. Not all the fittings are the same. Some are inverted flares, and some are bubble flares. On the combo valve, the topside fittings are inverted flare, and the bottom are bubble flare. Makes it kind of a pain the connect every thing up. fortunately I have flaring tools and fittings for both.

WTPH? Wonder why Ford did that?

Charlie Chops 1940 · May 01, 2013, 04:14:03 PM

Even Ford has come under the evil influence of the Godless metric lobby.....

BFS57 · May 01, 2013, 06:49:56 PM

Hello;
Not too long ago, I bought some brake cylinders for my 57 and the bleeders were such that I couldn't find a wrench to fit, so I used my vice grips, took those Chinese junk out and replaced them with the correct ones!
They try anything!

Bruce

enjenjo · May 01, 2013, 07:44:18 PM

This afternoon I found out that although they are both 3/16" inverted flare, the left front brake hose has different threads than the right one. :?:

phat46 · May 01, 2013, 07:55:37 PM

Quote from: "enjenjo"This afternoon I found out that although they are both 3/16" inverted flare, the left front brake hose has different threads than the right one. :?:

If you bought that Mustang in the Emmit/Capac area there's probably some tractor stuff on it too...;-)

58 Yeoman · May 02, 2013, 06:13:54 AM

Quote from: "enjenjo"This afternoon I found out that although they are both 3/16" inverted flare, the left front brake hose has different threads than the right one. :?:

Must be some left over Chrysler stuff?

Mikej · May 02, 2013, 04:32:50 PM

It only fits in one place for the factory guys.

idrivejunk · May 02, 2013, 07:35:42 PM

I hope you don't mind a few pics, and comparing notes. I'm really just a bodyman playing mechanic, haven't done tons of plumbing. I am plumbing a 70 Mach1 front disc conversion at work right now. I stopped once I got to the distribution block because the booster/master is not yet in hand. Most of what I'm using was a kit from Chockostang and some parts are SSBC, some are Classic Tube and others.

I thought this might apply to what you're doing. I cut the new rear line and just spliced in the valve that way. Apparently some bulk stainless tubing would rather split than flare, but the tubing on quality pre-made lines is better and will flare. When I tried the K-D flare tool, it just pushed the tube through but the hydraulic tool in the pic held it firm and did the job. Of course no leak testing yet.

The two adapters (top left, bottom right) were in some part of the kit. At this point the valve can be rotated to face the dial up or forward, I'll see which way things work out with the speedo cable, column, and clutch rod and adjust from there.

Should I mount the valve? It has bolt holes and I could but should I bother?

Charlie Chops 1940 · May 02, 2013, 07:58:05 PM

I'd mount the valve - so as to minimize vibration.

idrivejunk · May 02, 2013, 08:45:02 PM

Quote from: "Charlie Chops 1940"I'd mount the valve - so as to minimize vibration.

Thanks, I thought same. I want to make a square rubber block as a bushing with bolts thru the apron. If it doesn't fit laying flat like that, I'll have to make an angled bracket to point the dial up at whatever angle fits best.

No post hijacking intended! :oops:

enjenjo · May 02, 2013, 09:04:48 PM

Here's the one I did. I would mount the valve too. Also a few clamps on the lines

idrivejunk · May 02, 2013, 09:38:31 PM

Ah, I see the earlier model is laid out quite differently, the '70 right front line runs across the firewall and the shock tower is farther forward than you all's.

I'm just putting the stock clamp locations back as of now but will add to that if need be. Shaking means leaking.

I saw the rail fix, I had a similar problem but replaced the tower and patched the rail. It had been fixed with angle iron but from the outside previously, thats a bad ol rust area.

Theres nothing like the feeling I get being on the clock but standing in front of a bin at the hardware store scratching my head and finding nothing. Thats me, taking off my shoe and whacking the side o my noggin hoping to knock an idea loose.

wayne petty · May 03, 2013, 12:02:32 AM

Quote from: "idrivejunk"I hope you don't mind a few pics, and comparing notes. I'm really just a bodyman playing mechanic, haven't done tons of plumbing. I am plumbing a 70 Mach1 front disc conversion at work right now. I stopped once I got to the distribution block because the booster/master is not yet in hand. Most of what I'm using was a kit from Chockostang and some parts are SSBC, some are Classic Tube and others.

I thought this might apply to what you're doing. I cut the new rear line and just spliced in the valve that way. Apparently some bulk stainless tubing would rather split than flare, but the tubing on quality pre-made lines is better and will flare. When I tried the K-D flare tool, it just pushed the tube through but the hydraulic tool in the pic held it firm and did the job. Of course no leak testing yet.

The two adapters (top left, bottom right) were in some part of the kit. At this point the valve can be rotated to face the dial up or forward, I'll see which way things work out with the speedo cable, column, and clutch rod and adjust from there.

Should I mount the valve? It has bolt holes and I could but should I bother?

IDJ... a few things.... and this is just from me.. i don't know how others would do it...

i would mount the adjustable valve next or slightly below the safety valve.. probably on long bolts thru the inner fender.. flat washers nuts .. spacers... then the adjustable valve and nuts on top.. to firmly mount the valve to the inner fender but still accessible..

i don't have power brakes on my 70 ranchero.. so there might be issues with the power brake booster.. but they are usually mounted up on adaptor arms.. that raise the centerline of the booster several inches.. i will email you a photo from the 70 429 SCJ torino..

i also worry where you mounted it.. that it would interfere with the steering column... any column.. yea right.. gear shift linkage.. but it could also interfere with clutch linkage bell crank mount.. i will have to look around for that diagram.. i might have it... but you probably have all the parts around ..

by the way... you will also want to search around this linked site for their fluid transfer catalog.. it lists the various brake fittings and adaptors by number and size.. making it easier..

autozone and a few other stores carry ags.. along with dorman that uses a different numbering and edelman..that can be had at most napa stores.. or weather head..

http://www.agscompany.com/faq/11

ps.. i sent you some images direct...
just thoughts... ..

enjenjo · May 03, 2013, 01:16:05 AM

Quote from: "idrivejunk"Ah, I see the earlier model is laid out quite differently, the '70 right front line runs across the firewall and the shock tower is farther forward than you all's.

.

This one was that way too, I rerouted it to clean things up a bit. I march to my own drum.