350 Chevy Problems

[48bill]

Wayne, Not unplugged but probably not energized, I think.  As previously mentioned I have a firewall mounted Ford solenoid. The only wiring on the car now connected to the battery is the positive cable from the battery to the solenoid, then a cable from the output side of the solenoid to the starter, then a #10 wire from the input side of the solenoid to the input side of the ballast resister, the input on the resister is connected to the ignition switch which remains off.
All other wiring remains  under the dash except the original burned #10 from the ignition switch to the ammeter.  Alternator is still connected but I don't think it connects to the battery.
I start the engine with a remote type starter button with one wire to the input side of the solenoid and the other to the lest hand post on the solenoid.

[48bill]

It gets better, actually worse really.  The frayed positive cable was caused by a bolt missing from a rear shock mount which allowed the top of the shock to rub on the cable.  Fixed cable and replaced bolt.

Fixed?  Not quite.  Still did not want to start seemed like a fuel problem. No gas to carb.  Checked and pump seemed OK.  Checked hose and it was not soft. from tank to hard line.  Part of hose under trunk floor and friend suggested I check hose there.  soft there so replaced (only soft at barbed fitting on tank pickup and not any where else).  Still would not get fuel.  Put a funnel full of gas into the hose leading to the carb and it started and ran.  Then blew air back from mechanical pump to tank,  Sounded OK, but, apparently pressurized the system and gas ran forward from the tank.  Also saw a leak over the formerly loose shock.  A small hole rubbed there.  TELL ME THE LORD doesn't have a special place for fools and hot rodders.  A gas leak next to a frayed positive cable.  WOW!!!

Fixed that.  Now all OK with starting and charging system.  Re ran and/or replaced wires under dash.  Eliminated ammeter to be replaced with a volt meter.  Installed circuit breakers in system.

Everything now works except no brake lights.  Apparently at some point the H-3 halogen brake light bulbs blew out  (I have a Juliano's kit in the original 48 Chev tail lights that use an H-3 bulb in each light for brake and turn signals and a seperate non-halogen buld for tail lights.  Great visibility even in day light.  Super kit have had installed for almost 20 years.).  Replaced bulbs and all OK there.  Seemed like all fixed finally.

On the way home from my friends where we spent 2 1/2 days doing all this he told me my brake lights stopped working.  Got home safely with him behind me and tested the switch and it's bad.  Generic GM switch used on late 60' to mid 70's Chev's, Camaros, el Caminos, et al.  Have to get one and hopefully done.

[model a vette]

"On the way home from my friends where we spent 2 1/2 days doing all this he told me my brake lights stopped working. Got home safely with him behind me and tested the switch and it's bad. Generic GM switch used on late 60' to mid 70's Chev's, Camaros, el Caminos, et al. Have to get one and hopefully done."

GM didn't put more than two 1157 bulbs per side on the rear of those cars for brake lights. They installed three per side on Fieros and included a relay to drive one of the bulbs on each side.
Four 1157s pull 2.1 amps each for a total of 8.4 amps. H4s pull about 5 amps each for a total of 10 amps.

I think you are going to be burning up brake light switches with the H4s unless you use a relay.

[48ford]

I had the same thing on my ford With sbc.
Ater doing all the things you are trying,I put a used distributor in it that I had and now it has worked for over a year.
mine is electronic no points in the distributor.
Let us know
Russ

[48bill]

Thank all for your assistance.  

Hopefully my driveability problems are solved.   The convertible has been without a problem other than I hate to drive it in the December, January New England weather.  I have been driving it daily for over a month now as the 1948 F-1 daily driver is down for the install of a Mustang II front end.

I have had the halogen H-3 tail lights in the convert for over 20 years and have not burned out a brakelight switch.  I believe it was the bad  short problem that burned out the H-3's and the switch.  Not sure it was the overload on the switch.  Will look into wiring in a relay though.  Thanks for the suggestion.