Internal resistor coils

[junkyardjeff]

I am going to use one in my 37 Chevy p/u so I can eliminate the ballast resistor for a more original look enclosed in the case of the original 37 coil,its the wiring to it that I have a question. I have the 37 wired like a normal GM points system with the wire coming from the solenoid to the positive side of the coil,do I still need to hook up that wire now that the resistor is inside the coil.

[wayne petty]

test the circuit...

hook the clip of the test light to the coil positive.....

shove the tip of the test light into something grounded so you can see the bulb from the drivers seat....

slowly turn the key to the ON position... see the light come on..

turn the key and start the motor...  does the LIGHT stay on as the engine is being cranked???

when you release the key to the RUN position... does the light stay on??


Ignition switches designed to work with Points usually OPEN the IGN1 contacts when the key is in the crank position...

on 60s cars with key on the dash.. and points type ignition switches that open the IGN1 circuit when the key is in the cranking position and owners want to install HEI type ignitions.... this is what i recommend they swap their original switch over to...



if you have an alternator lamp... hook that to ACC instead of ign 1...  that prevents the alternator lamp from feeding back and preventing the engine from shutting off..

this one does NOT open the IGN1 circuit .. is available at most parts stores.. and has the proper switch pigtail available...  i don't know if this will help.. it might..  your existing ignition lock cylinder has a fairly good chance of fitting also...  but you can use almost any prior to 67 and  69 up to 75 in van dash ignition lock cylinders...  68 was different and won't fit as far as i know..

[papastoyss]

I am going to use one in my 37 Chevy p/u so I can eliminate the ballast resistor for a more original look enclosed in the case of the original 37 coil,its the wiring to it that I have a question. I have the 37 wired like a normal GM points system with the wire coming from the solenoid to the positive side of the coil,do I still need to hook up that wire now that the resistor is inside the coil.

If the resistor is inside the coil I can't see any way to bypass the resistor for a full 12v for cranking. I spent 30 yrs working on VWs , they all used internal resistor coils, I never had to deal w/external resistors til I started messing w/ these nasty old hot rods.A Bosch "blue Coil" is a good choice for a internal resistor coil.

[GPster]

I think with those coils with internal resisters that when they are cool/cold the resistance is not present  but the resistance comes from the amount of time that electrical current flows through it. I would think the by product of that resistance would be heat so that when the electrical resistance is present the coil might get hotter. So by trying to eliminate the extermal resister so that it looks like a '37 wiring loam the'37 coil cover might be trapping heat in the coil/resister combo. All of wayne's explanations are correct but if you are trying to make the wiring look stock on your car wouldn't you have a foot actuated starter and a stock 6V ingnition switch? GPster

[junkyardjeff]

It has a 53 olds ignition switch and a 57 car starter with a solenoid,I did pick up a foot stomp starter from a 58 truck that will be going on and on the switch it has a terminal to go to the coil for 12 volts at start.