Block sanding round stuff

[idrivejunk]

If you use the spring rubber, and psa paper, the rubber will stretch, rather than wrinkle the paper. You can also make stiffening rods out of  piano wire, grind one end to a chisel shape, and "drill" them into the rubber with a hand drill.

Enenjo, I can see this working if the piano wires will hold their shape. Trying to imagine. Last time I had piano wire in my hand, seems like it was pretty springy unlike mild steel rod. Is that correct? My whole thing is that I want to shape the block then apply sandpaper to it. But if the foam IS just right ... Anyway a half inch thick one foot square of that foam costs more than the sander Wayne showed! I was looking for a way to compare the durometer number on it to a Durablock for comparison. Guessing the foam is a bit softer. I bet I'll make my own tool for this, out of steel. And I bet I'll check locally on bulk industrial foam availability.

Seriously also- this is what I have come to admire about this forum. On top of being snotty-nosed-kid free, theres real rodders here who know about raw rodding materials and inventive solutions from doing real builds on real budgets in real garages. Thats why I'm here asking.

Thanks to everyone who spoke up, I'll let you know what I do.  

[papastoyss]

I stepped up & bought a set of the blocks w/the removeable rods & consider them $ well spent.Also I'm a fan of 3M dry guide coat powder, it enables an ordinary guy to do pro class work.

[idrivejunk]

I stepped up & bought a set of the blocks w/the removeable rods & consider them $ well spent.Also I'm a fan of 3M dry guide coat powder, it enables an ordinary guy to do pro class work.

I'm a fan of dry guide coat too. I like to fog it with degreaser so it stains and doesn't rub off without sanding.

Got back to work on the Model A today ... I must say I don't think I can beat that little metal strip for blocking those problem areas. Just the spots where regular blocks won't do it accurately. So I'm gonna stay with that and permanently add it to my collection. But I did step up and buy a set of Dura-Blocks for myself finally. Some are curved right out of the box, dang. But when I need truly flat straight long areas, I use a stick of lumber anyway.

Shooting for final urethane primer on this at the end of next week so I need to finish my blocking and filling and re-apply more hi-build polyester primer and go again until then!

[34ford]

good article in rod and custom august 2012 called Filling Time page 26.

deals with the curves and other odd shapes to sand.

Couldn't find the article on line yet, still to new.

[oj]

Wow, i missed this thread.  That is some nice work.  All the seams are welded?  Did you take pics during that process and can you put together a little show'ntell?
Thanks, oj

[idrivejunk]

Wow, i missed this thread.  That is some nice work.  All the seams are welded?  Did you take pics during that process and can you put together a little show'ntell?
Thanks, oj

Yes, everything you see is welded together except of course the doors and trunk lid. No, I don't have pics of the metal work process but it is all steel. I do have pics of it bare, in epoxy primer. The car has been taking shape at R&R Street Rods in Bentonville Arkansas over the last few years, and it was born a five-window. Windshield frame is hand-made by Rick. Once it was ready for final metal finishing and filler work, the "tub" and body parts were delivered to us at the HACK Shack. Its been my baby for a couple months now and I am just about done with my part. Once it is ready for urethane primer, our painter will take it from there. I have done some full length "show and tells" on other forums with welding and fab stuff, but mostly 60s rides. In this episode, I'm merely the mudslinger! The thing will wear a deuce grille and two-tone paint when finished. TCI chassis, SBC.

Still sanding out my initial application of polyester primer now. This week generated yet another new blocking tool, a 2-3/4" length of small diameter thick walled rubber A/C hose with a slight curve from being coiled. For the area where the running board, lower side panel, and front fender meet. I stuck about a half inch wide strip of 180 to the outside curve. End of today- door, cowl, and dash left to go, and more filler here and there.