700R4 cooling line pressure

[Charlie Chops 1940]

I'm installing a new fan equipped tranny cooler in my old convertible with 700R4. I'm looking at flexible line, either braided or reinforced rubber for a portion of the plumbing. What PSI operating and burst pressure of the hose should I be looking for?

I did a bunch of google searching but couldn't seem to determine what the cooling line pressure is.

Thaks,

Charlie

[unklian]

I used EFI rubber fuel line, works ok.

[34ford]

Here's a page with some info Charlie. Down on the page is a chart with the pressures for what gear the tranny is in and looks to be from 90 in park to 230 tops. I just typed "700R4 cooling line pressure" in the google box and this is one of the articles that came up.

 bob

Range   Minimum   Maximum
Park           90-110      190-230
Reverse   95-120   200-300
Neutral   90-110   190-230
Overdrive   90-110   190-230
Drive           90-110   190-230
Second   185-230   185-230
Low           185-230   185-230


and here's the link to the page
http://www.hotrodders.com/articles/TH-700R4_basics.html

[Crosley.In.AZ]

the pressure listing  posted is main line pressure which is NOT cooler line pressures.

cooler line psi runs 25 to 60 psi in common 700r4 ... if the trans is hopped up with larger boost valves , the psi will go a bit higher under max conditions near 100 psi

[Charlie Chops 1940]

Thanks guys.

Bob, I saw that chart in a couple of places and figured that was internal.

Tony, that's what I was looking for. 250# operating pressure hose should be adequate then.

Very difficult to hard line the cooler up front.

Charlie

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Charlie,,

During the last time the Goodguys friday tour came through Hughes Performance..  

I operated the transmission dyno with a 4L60E trans on it.  I used that trans to show how we test electronic trans out side the vehicle.

I also took the opportunity to show folks how high of pressure that could be in the cooler lines.  I pointed out that many home builders use inexpensive rubber hose.  I saw many faces with a :" OH shoot, I used cheap hose" look on their faces.

I also mentioned on how the trans cooler lines usually are near the exhaust system and trans oil will flash over to a ball of flames quickly.

Many folks asked me questions on what hose to use.

[Charlie Chops 1940]

Tony...and your answer was?

Charlie

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Tony...and your answer was?

Charlie

Charlie,

I prefer steel lines when possible.. beyond that:

A hose rated for hydraulic oil, pressure rating and heat.

Most of the quality hose of stainless braided line, the current cloth covered hose that most folks use now works well.

Earls Pro lite stuff works well.

Most auto parts have a hydraulic hose that is rated way above the needs of a trans cooler hose.

Dont go cheap on fittings.  Clamp on compression fittings are good, hose clamp style work.  

The push loc fittings, I install clamps on... that is just my opinion

[wayne petty]

many autozones actually have this in stock... by the foot...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GTR-65213/

transmission oil cooler hose....    its printed on the hose also...

most applications are going to be far better off.. by hitting the junk yards... and at least removing the rear 2/3rds of the transmission cooler lines...  for a 700 R4.  4l60, 4l60E...

warning... some factory transmission cooler lines have a CHECK BALL in one.. to prevent the transmission cooler from draining when the engine is off... once in a great while.. these check balls will get worn... slide out of place.. CLOG the line totally...  the transmission will be damaged in just a few blocks.. it will be destroyed to the point it will no longer move in about 15 miles as the oil cooler flow does not just cool the transmission fluid.. it cools and lubes the sprags or one way clutches and the planetary gears ..  without cooler flow... it will die an EXPENSIVE DEATH...

there are a few companies that are offering replacement complete transmission cooler line kits for some applications...


be sure that when you visit the junk yard .. that you take a set of flair nut wrenches and a set of crowfoot line wrenches .. swivel extensions and various ratchets.. rigid and flex..

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-sae-crowfoot-flarenut-wrench-set-93137.html

they might have some of the above in metric  in the stores.. they do offer these flex versions that i have not tried yet..

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-metric-3-8-eighth-inch-offset-flexible-crowfoot-flare-nut-wrench-set-97952.html


just had to pick up one of these wobble extension sets... dropped the pair of short mac versions i had into the engine that i was removing so i needed one till it got it apart...   was amazed and annoyed about how strong the ball retaining spring is...

Great Neck/4 pcs. 3/8 in. drive wobble extension bars
Part Number: 2063
Set includes sizes: 1-1/2 In., 3 In., 6 In., 10 In.
Chrome vanadium steel for strength and durability
16 degree wobble for hard to get places
Locking ball socket retainers
Part Number:   2063


oh.. a few more things....

transmission hose over the smooth walls of tubing.. needs 2 clamps at each joint.... proper sized clamps....

you can use brass compression unions and adaptors fittings..

you can also use inverted flair fittings if you have an inverted flair / double flair tool.. one that uses the small insert to expand the tube prior to forming the inverted flair...   single flares are not going to seal in an inverted flair fitting properly..    

oh!!  here i go again.. off out of bounds giving more info than was ask for...

[34ford]

Sorry about that Charlie,

Knew it was to easy of an answer if I could find it that fast.  :oops:

[Crosley.In.AZ]

Use of proper hose or steel lines , you need to still watch the heat from the engine exhaust system.

Heat shields, heat wrap can be used