getting off the tightest fan clutches...

[wayne petty]

i ran into one... that was on so tight... that it would NOT budge... spread several of the imported stamped steel fan clutch wrenches.. and since i have not been able to find a 36MM combo wrench... easily... or an inch and 7/16 wrench...   and they are usually to long and hit the wiper motors on astro vans... i had this made....  

i had the local welding /fab shop use an oval punch to cut the sides of the opening.. just smaller than  36MM  so i could just come in and clean them up with my grinder...      i should have cut them with my own saw...

i did have the opening cut extra deep... so i was away from the edge and i would have more steel to stop it from spreading...

its made from 3/8 plate.. i don't know which one.. just scrap from the floor of the shop...

the oval angled hole is to latch over the pulley bolt...

i did make the handles a little long...  and i had to bend them with my foot.. but they worked out perfect...






i used the 36mm  axle nut  to check the fit...

many fan clutches are 36MM... some are 40MM...


i should also mention.. that the size of the wrench end ... keeps the holding tool from slipping off the head of the pulley bolt...

yes .. its a cobble... but it worked...


i love the size of the bead of the weld... i don't know what size the wire was... but the guy they got to weld it in the shop... was welding flanges to a 12" W beam for an earthquake retrofit...

i just thought i would share my cobble...


oh!!! yea... i really love soy sauce...

[Mikej]

When I worked at the implement dealer we always made tools that worked for the job but might not be pretty. Our best was deep well sockets cut in half and rewelded with pipe between to make a really deep well socket. Inner bearing races with slit so you could use it to drive on the new bearing.
Looks like you need a new wire wheel, Wayne

[tomslik]

....and then he notices the left hand thread sticker;)

[wayne petty]

left hand thread...      well lets see... i looked in the haynes manual.. that the van owner has...  it says left hand thread..    clockwise to loosen...  i tired it.. even with my new tool... it seemed to get tighter... and tighter... when i switched around and tried counter intuitive.. counter clock wise.. it came off...     its a 98 GMC safari 2 van.. 4.3 vortec...

i am trying to get to the timing chain... possibly the gears possibly for the balance shaft..   something really strange is happening..  this fan has 240.000 miles on it..  original motor as far as i can tell.. another shop said the injector spider..   after they did a tune up.. i swapped in a new coil. as the last one had burned thru..  pictures to come...

but it sits there idling.. lack of power..  sometimes feels like somebody inside with a 10 pound sledge hammer slamming it home once in a while.. wham... sometimes when it hits.. at idle.. it stalls the motor completely dead...  wham and the motor stops turning..  i am totally astonished the timing chain did not snap...

it almost feels like an ignition misfire..  where something is causing the spark to happen 45 degrees to early once in a while..    i do plan on pulling the crank sensor.. before i pull the timing cover...  i guess i have to drop the pan to get the timing cover off..  good thing they are under 40 bucks for a new one ....


putting the spider in.. was a hoot..   i have had this apart before for the replacement of the intake gaskets.. and fuel pressure regulator.. but the new nylon lines.. even as i loosened the retainer and turned them slightly..  to line them up like is shown in the diagram so i could get it all in..  its a shame that they don't preset the lines before they box it..  they could get it in a smaller package...  half the size...  i guess its time to call that company..

i worry that the injector lines got crimped... but  there is NO easy way to check..

its just really strange... i am going to work on it more tomorrow..  had an 4x4 wheel bearing failure on a dana 28TTB...  had to split the cage.. grind a groove to get the individual rollers out.. then yank the rotor over the inner race..  grind more on the outer race.. and grind the inner race and split both to get them off..    took apart the locking hubs and picked up new orange  silicone O rings to seal it all back up... with the new rotors and bearings installed...  the stubs are NLA from dana..  

but the 4.3 has me wondering..    ECM/ignition    or timing chain slack slamming the balance shaft back and forth..

anybody with 4.3 experience?   experiences...

it did get better by moving the distributer.. so i really am thinking the slack timing chain...


oh.. and thats a twisted knot wire wheel...    it will take your  skin right off your fingers if  you get to close...    it is looking thin... but it still takes the crud off..   the wires are so thick.. it almost leaves a shot blast finish on softer parts...    far superior in my uses than a straight wire wheel.. or even a kinked wire wheel..   most of the time.. i use it to clean the back face of engine valves...  C clamp it to my portable table..  and clean away...   i dress it once in a while when i have a cut off wheel on my angle grinder..   spin the bench grinder up.. then attack with the angle grinder .. sharp smooth  surface...   it does toss wires every once in a while.. find them sticking out of my shirt ..  like a human dart board...


oh.. and my reason for letting the fab shop punch the holes..   i have a steel cut off wheel in my mag 77.. and it as you know throws a lot of sparks.. i have wondered .. if i am going to set the mag 77 on fire with the heat build up from cutting something thick..

[wayne petty]

found the info on the vortec noises... in astro and safari vans...

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Content/Site302/Articles/02_01_2010/7116825GMLayout_00000029225.pdf

there are a few drawings in the linked PDF...


GM 4.3L V6 Owners Rattled By Engine Noise From Torsional Vibration
Some GM truck, SUV and minivan owners may complain about a rattle-type noise coming from the engine area at approximately 1,800 to 2,200 rpm. The rattle-type noise may be caused by torsional vibration of the balance shaft. Models most likely to be affected include: 1996-2003 4.3L V6 engines found in Chevrolet Astro, Blazer, Express, S-10, Silverado and P Models; 1996-2003 GMC Jimmy, Safari, Savana, Sierra, Sonoma; and 1996-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada applications.

To fix the problem, follow this service procedure for installing a new tensioner assembly kit. If detonation noise is present, perform detonation/spark knock diagnostic testing first.
1. Remove the engine front cover.
2. Remove the crankshaft sensor reluctor ring and line up the timing marks on the crank gear and camshaft gear.
3. Remove the camshaft gear and chain.
For model years 1996-'98, remove the crankshaft sprocket using a crankshaft sprocket removal tool (p/n J 5825-A or equivalent).
4. Pull the shipping pin and discard.
Remove the nylon timing chain tensioner blade from the timing chain tensioner bracket.
5. Position the bracket on the front of the engine. The upper two attaching holes of the bracket will line up with the center two engine front cover bolt holes. The lower bracket holes will line up with the engine front cover alignment holes

6. Use a hammer and pin driver (p/n J 46165 or equivalent) to install the dowel pins through the two lower holes in the bracket and into the engine block. Make sure that the bracket is held firmly in place before proceeding
7. For model years 1996-'98, install a roller-type timing chain set. Install the crankshaft sprocket using the J 5590 crankshaft gear installer. Install the timing chain around the crankshaft sprocket and position the timing chain to the driver's side of the engine.
8. Install the nylon timing chain tensioner guide onto the timing chain tensioner bracket pin and position the top of the guide under the tab at the top of the bracket (see Figure 5, above).
9. Install the camshaft sprocket into the chain and then to the camshaft. Install the bolts finger-tight. Make sure the timing marks are aligned, then tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt. Tighten the bolt to 18 ft.lbs.. (25 Nm).
10. Install the crankshaft reluctor ring.
11. Install the engine front cover and place a washer under the two center cover bolts that extend through the tensioner bracket. These washers are required to maintain the proper crush on the engine front cover seal (see Figure 6, above).

Tighten the bolts to 106 in.lbs.. (12 Nm).

PARTS INFORMATION
Part Number Description
12458911 Chain Kit
89017257 Tensioner
10220906 Oil Pan Gasket
88893989 O-Ring and Gasket Kit
3754587 Water Pump Gasket (2)
89017259 Cover


i hope this helps others....

[UGLY OLDS]

They put 4.3's in P-Models  :?:             Bet those are fun on the freeway .. :?






Bob....