Shop air systems

Started by taxpyer, October 23, 2010, 06:55:45 AM

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taxpyer

I know this has been kicked around before BUT,,,,,,,,,,, What is the most practical cost efficient compressed air system a guy can install in his shop. :roll:  Steel? Plastic? Copper? I know some folks have used the pipe used in infloor heating with great success. Ideas, comments?
What\'s that noise?,,, Never mind,, I\'ll check it later

Charlie Chops 1940

I've used the high strength plastic but as joints are starting to leak I'm going over to steel pipe. Have heard some horror stories about plastic pipe failure and secondary damage. Why risk it?

Charlie
A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...but, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying. "Wow...that was fun!"

Poster geezer for retirement....

A Hooligan!

enjenjo

Fatcat did my rear shop in plastic truck air line. It's actually reinforced Nylon tubing. It uses brass compression fittings for connections. It has worked out good. I am thinking of doing the front shop in the same thing. It's available up to 3/4"
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Digger

RapidAir makes a complete system (plastic) saw it for less than $150 for 100 ft tubing and fittings. I think it was from Air Compressors Direct.
I use steel myself, it's probably no better but I feel safer with it.
Just when you think you are winning the Rat Race, along come faster rats!

Digger

Glen

I ran copper tubing, but if I was going to add on or re-do anything I would use the plastic air line pictured above.....that is easy to work with and fittings are readily available.

Crosley.In.AZ

i have schedule 40 , 3/4 inch  PVC pipe run along th e wall at the floor with galv steel risers that are screw clamped to the wall studs.

I've never had a PVC piece blow out at the pipe... always a fittin separates, usually after  7 - 8 yrs in use.

The PVC is easy to remove when I sell this place after I retire and move to my super secret cave  location

If I used metal pipe,  I think I would use galv pipe.

the high pressure line of truck air plastic / nylon  hose looks promising
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

Digger

Quote from: "Crosley"i have schedule 40 , 3/4 inch  PVC pipe run along th e wall at the floor with galv steel risers that are screw clamped to the wall studs.

I've never had a PVC piece blow out at the pipe... always a fittin separates, usually after  7 - 8 yrs in use.

The PVC is easy to remove when I sell this place after I retire and move to my super secret cave  location

If I used metal pipe,  I think I would use galv pipe.

the high pressure line of truck air plastic / nylon  hose looks promising


Tony, just out of curiosity, when you run your lines along the floor do you have any problem with moisture sitting in the lines? if so how do you drain them or isn't that a concern in Az?
Just when you think you are winning the Rat Race, along come faster rats!

Digger

Crosley.In.AZ

Quote from: "Digger"
Quote from: "Crosley"i have schedule 40 , 3/4 inch  PVC pipe run along th e wall at the floor with galv steel risers that are screw clamped to the wall studs.

I've never had a PVC piece blow out at the pipe... always a fittin separates, usually after  7 - 8 yrs in use.

The PVC is easy to remove when I sell this place after I retire and move to my super secret cave  location

If I used metal pipe,  I think I would use galv pipe.

the high pressure line of truck air plastic / nylon  hose looks promising


Tony, just out of curiosity, when you run your lines along the floor do you have any problem with moisture sitting in the lines? if so how do you drain them or isn't that a concern in Az?

hi,

moisture is a concern here, although humidity is often lower than some areas of the country.

I have a water trap inline before the air enters the PVC lines too

My PVC lines  actually  run along the floor, a few inches off the floor.  I have fittings in the lines with small drain valve like those used in a radiator.

8)
Tony

 Plutophobia (Fear of money)

jaybee

Mine is 3/4" copper.  It's easily cut to exact length, no pipe threading necessary, I'm comfortable with sweat soldering, it's sturdy enough to hold up, and close enough to the price of galvanized.
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. Eric Hoffer  (1902 - 1983)

taxpyer

To all of you,,,,,,,,,, Thanks alot! You have helped me decide what to use for my system. Thank you very much for your input. );b(
What\'s that noise?,,, Never mind,, I\'ll check it later

wayne petty

for those who don't know...


when doing higher pressure things with copper and sweat fittings...

silver solder is used... instead of lead or lead free...

this is one of the handy things i keep around the house..



http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/productDetails.aspx?SKU=24645

this exact product melts at low temps.. like 450F... i use it for soldering cracks in radiator tanks... where lead has failed again and again..

i use it to solder eyeglass frames also.. its really strong.. and works with a soldering pencil   or gun...

there are hard stick silver solders also... that melt at temps like 1100F.. those are handy also..    and those probably need to be used on HVAC fittings..  this is also lead free...

i just thought i would kick this in..

the part number on this is 53982...  from alpha metals.. they have other items with different qualities.. that are NOT the same..  this stuff is strong...  and easy to use...