1928 REO engine

[mrloboy]

A fellow called looking for a head for his restored 1928 REO fire engine. His engine tag indicates that it is a 16E Continental L-head inline six. I have an engine also from a 28 REO fire engine. The tag on this engine is a 15E. The casting number on the head of the 15E engine begins with "16E". Anyone know if the heads are interchangeable?

Rick

[wayne petty]

i don't have an answer to your question...

but this is something that should be printed to add to the repair info for the truck...

http://www.stumpfweldingsupplies.com/files/Continental_Overhaul_Manual.pdf


this second pdf is also important. but only if you work on these for various applications... as these were used in tons of towmotors and fork lifts...

it lists the individual differences and drive gears that is hard to get..

http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Continental-Engines/Continental_L-Head-F-163-etc-Quick_Reference.pdf



an article on the history of continental motors..

http://www.hemmings.com/hcc/stories/2008/12/01/hmn_feature13.html


here is one about one cylinder continental motors..

http://www.thqma.com/Tech%20documents/2008_DECO_TECH_MANUAL.pdf

[enjenjo]

Ok, I dug out an old Hollander to see what I could find. Not much. They do not specify engine models, just truck models. If the truck is an FC6, then the heads may interchange if you use the distibutor that matches the head. Now I am not 100 percent certain on this, but from the listing I have there is a footnote on switching heads. You might do a little measuring to see that the bolt pattern is the same, and how deep the distributor shaft fits in the head.

[wayne petty]

more info.. to get you HEADED in the right direction

http://www.foleyengines.com/freetechnicalinfo/drdieseltechtips/ensuringheadgasketlongevity.aspx

Tech Tip #42


Ensuring Head Gasket Longevity on Continental Industrial Engines
This Tech Tip, one in a number that we publish for people rebuilding and maintaining Continental Red Seal engines, discusses how to cure the perennial problem of blown head gaskets on these industrial engines.

Over the last 60 years Continental Red Seal industrial engines have been used extensively in forklifts, welding machines, cable tool rigs, and in a wide array of other industrial applications. The four cylinder Continental industrial models began with the model F124 and became successively models F135, F140, F162 and F163. Each model number stands for its cubic inch displacement. The six cylinder Continental Red Seal engines began as the F186 and became progessively the F209, F218, F226, F227, F244, and F245. Again, each model number represents its displacement. Initially, these long, thin flatheads were clamped to the top of the block with studs. Later the Continental factory in Muskegon, MI used cap screws.

While these Continenatal gas engines are rugged, easy to fix and will run on little more than turpentine or household cleaner, many have been in service for over 50 years and have been repeatedly rebuilt. As a result, we have seen an increase recently in head gasket failures. There are several reasons for this. As people convert form gas to propane, operating temperatures rise and the head gasket often lets go. Additonally, after years of overtightening the studs, the top of the block is often distorted and pulled up. This results in a poor sealing surface. For those Continental industrial engine blocks that have been converted over to capscrews, the capscrews will have stretched after numerous rebuilds. Finally, younger mechanics more used to overhead valve engines with their short, heavy cylinder heads are not aware of the necessity to retorque the long, thin cylinder head on these flathead Continental industrials after the first warm up following a rebuild. But we have some solutions to this growing problem.

1) Resurface both the head AND the block. Make it a part of any overhaul to resurface the top of the block as well as the cylinder head. This will remove any distortions in the top of the engine block caused by overtightening over the years.

2) Change fasteners. We strongly suggest that you use new Continental industrial OEM head bolts. After all these years it is simply good practice to switch to all new capscrews for these Continental Red Seals. The old head bolts or the even older studs will have stretched. Foley stocks genuine Continental Industrial capscrew sets for these Continentals and we even have the extra long ones for the accessory brackes as well as the one small capscrew with a star shaped head that goes near the distributor hole.

3) Use sealant. Install these new cap screws with a high temperature, modern sealant. While the Continental factory manual recommends that you install the fasteners dry, this suggestion was made before modern sealants. We use and highly recommend a sealant made by Mercury Marine and sold under the Quicksilver brand as "Perfect Seal". They sell it as PN 92-34227-1. This copper colored sealant can be purchased from any Mercury outboard dealer. Swab it liberally on the capscrews before you slide them through the Continental cylinder head. We have heard that this Perfect Seal sealant was originally formulated by Mack Truck for their engines but we can't confirm this. What we can confirm is that it works and we buy it by pallet load for our remanufacturing operations.

4) Use the right head gasket on your Continental. For the four cylinder Continental engine, use the Continental OEM Permatorque head gasket. For the six cylinder Continentals do not use the current OEM paper head gasket. It will not hold. Rather use an aftermarket steel backed one. Be careful though, there is a difference between the early and late six cylinder head gaskets and the correct one must be used. As of this Tech Tip we don't know of any Permatorque head gasket for the six cylinder Continentals. Please let us know if you come across one.

5) Install the head correctly. See Foley Tech Tip #5 "Torque Values and Valve Settings" for the correct torque specs. See Foley Tech Tip #15 "Installing a Cylinder Head" and Tech Tip #34 "Foley Engines Head Installation Check List" for complete details on head installation on these Continentals.

6) Retorque it after the initial warm up. Sure it is pain, but you have come this far so you should do it. These long, thin 50 year old Continental cylinder heads need all the help they can get..

We hope that the above Tech Tip will help people who have these Continental industrials in their fleet. Much of the same advice would also apply if you are running older White- Hercules industrial engines.

http://www.foleyengines.com/Info.aspx?DeptID=47&PID=30

Tech Tip #15


Installing a Cylinder Head
Installing a new or remanufactured cylinder head on an engine is relatively simple and requires no advanced skills. This Foley Tech Tip, one of an ongoing series, provides a guide to cylinder head installation.

Installing the Head
Carefully check the head gasket to ensure it is correct and not covering coolant holes. Place the new gasket onto the cylinder block, checking for proper alignment. Lay the head down on top of the gasket. To avoid altering torque readings clean all bolt holes. Use clean but not pre-lubed bolts or studs.

Torque Sequence
Using a torque wrench, carefully tighten the fasteners in a circular pattern starting in the center and working out to the edges. Consult Foley Tech Tip #5 for recommended torque values. Retorque the head after the initial warm up and again after 50 hours of operation. Adjust the valves at the same intervals.

in fact where is the whole list...

http://www.foleyengines.com/FreeTechnicalInfo/DrDieselTechTips.aspx

[mrloboy]

Thanks Guys, I think I will send measurements to Jim of my head and hopefully it will match his engine. I have a complete motor so it the distributor needs to be changed I can help him as well. The Fire truck is in New Jersey and I am in Manitoba. A bit of a treck! I want to make sure it is correct.