Kill switch

Started by phat46, July 18, 2004, 11:07:28 AM

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phat46

I am going to install a kill switch on my project truck. I have one of those plastic ones with the "key" that is removable. My question is: do you have to put this in the battery cable from the battery to the starter, or would it be enough to have it in the wire that supplies the power to the fuse panel?
I figure is there is a problem, killing the power to the fuses would stop the power to whatever curcuit is malfuctioning, with the exception of the starter motor itself. The reason i ask is because this would greatly simplify the install.

jaybee

I don't think that would pass inspection on a race car, but then again you aren't building a race car.  Seems like protecting most of the wiring is better than none.
Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength. Eric Hoffer  (1902 - 1983)

rooster

Quote from: "phat46"I am going to install a kill switch on my project truck. I have one of those plastic ones with the "key" that is removable. My question is: do you have to put this in the battery cable from the battery to the starter, or would it be enough to have it in the wire that supplies the power to the fuse panel?
I figure is there is a problem, killing the power to the fuses would stop the power to whatever curcuit is malfuctioning, with the exception of the starter motor itself. The reason i ask is because this would greatly simplify the install.

Some wires are unfused! For the feed wire to the box I installed a inline MAXIE FUSE about 30 amp, just before the maxie I have the master disconect on the positive side, power supply lines are kept away from the loom that power the lights,ele fan, and output of the alt.

Jokester

Do you think you will ever need to shut of the master while the vehicle is running?  If so, get one of the 4 terminal switches that will also break the alternator circuit.  Otherwise, the vehicle will keep running through the alternator, even if the master is shut off.


.bjb
To the world you\'re just one person; but to one person, you might be the world.

Bruce Dorsi

Quote from: "phat46"I am going to install a kill switch on my project truck. I have one of those plastic ones with the "key" that is removable.


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I believe your idea will work OK.  ...However, I think if the output wire from the alternator is connected DIRECTLY to the battery side of the kill switch, it will prevent the engine from running once the kill switch is turned off, since power to the ignition is interrupted.   .....The alternator output should be protected by its own fuse, circuit breaker, or fusible link.

I installed one of the black plastic kill switches with the red plastic key and can say from experience that they are of marginal quality.  ....They will not last long if starter current is passed through them so your idea has much merit.  .....My kill switch is wired to NOT handle the starting current, but it has proven unreliable.  ....When the switch is turned on, contact is not always made, and the switch may have to be turned on-off-on a few times to get power.  ...Yeah, I'll be replacing it soon, but with something else.  ....I've talked to others who have had the same experiences.      

I'd opt for a more reliable switch, even though it is a few dollars more.
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If being smart means knowing what I am dumb at,  I must be a genius!

1FATGMC

Quote from: "Bruce Dorsi"
I installed one of the black plastic kill switches with the red plastic key and can say from experience that they are of marginal quality.  ....They will not last long if starter current is passed through them so your idea has much merit.  .....My kill switch is wired to NOT handle the starting current, but it has proven unreliable.  ....When the switch is turned on, contact is not always made, and the switch may have to be turned on-off-on a few times to get power.  ...Yeah, I'll be replacing it soon, but with something else.  ....I've talked to others who have had the same experiences.      

I'd opt for a more reliable switch, even though it is a few dollars more.

I've run a J.C. Whitney metal keyed switch for over 115,000 miles with no problems so far, but after reading other peoples problems I've worried about it a little.  If it failed it would be very easy form me to move the inlet and outlet wire to one post and by-pass the switch.

I run all power through it including the starter power.  I have one small wire that by-passes it to keep the memory fresh in the radio/tape player.

I like it since it keeps the battery fresh if the truck is parked for long periods and I feel more secure with it there when I'm on the road and worried about the truck being stolen.

   

The switch is between the seats by my other switches.  I also have the remote solenoid for the starter in the same area right behind the passenger seat.  That proved very handy once when the key would turn on, but wouldn't go to the position to start the motor.  I just reached over and shorted the solenoid with a screw driver to run the starter.  This worked to get me home from B'ville and until I could install a new ignition switch.  

 

All my fuses are also in the console between the seats.  I just have to lift up the cover under the emergency brake handle to get to them.  This has also been very convient at times.

c ya, Sum