water in oil pan

Started by Okiedokie, January 26, 2010, 12:38:35 PM

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Okiedokie

As I contemplate removing the intake on my TPI 350 Chevy motor I wonder if I am correct in thinking the intake is the answer. It is a fresh motor, never fired. Crate motor minus the intake to me. I along with the help of a more experienced friend installed the intake, injection. While priming the oil pump I discovered the water in the pan. Am I correct that the intake gaskets are the likely culprit? Joe

Leon

It took me a couple tries with the proper Chevy gasket and bolts to get my intake to seal.  I could see some discoloration from the forward passenger side water passage that showed a small leak into the valley.  I never had that problem on the older design engines.

Okiedokie

Thanks Leon, not so bad with a carb, pain with TPI. Joe

Okiedokie

Just dawned on me, your comment about bolts. What about em?

enjenjo

Loose the end seals, use silicine sealer A tpi manifold flexes too much, and the rubber end seals will distort it enough to leak.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Okiedokie

"Loose the end seals, use silicine sealer A tpi manifold flexes too much, and the rubber end seals will distort it enough to leak."

Resulting in an internal water leak? Joe
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enjenjo

Quote from: "Okiedokie""Loose the end seals, use silicine sealer A tpi manifold flexes too much, and the rubber end seals will distort it enough to leak."

Resulting in an internal water leak? Joe
_________________

Yes. The old Edelbrock tunnel rams used to do it too. GM quit using the end seals at the factory in the mid 80s.

I discoved this as a problem, when I had a tunnel ram that kept leaking at the water ports. Removed the end seals, no more problem.

They can also leak at the rear water ports.
Welcome to hell. Here's your accordion.

Okiedokie

Thanks enjenjo, I will make sure to follow your advice. Joe

Okiedokie

Well, my attempt to fire my TPI crate motor continues to stumble. After successfully replacing the intake gasket I discovered water in cyl # 5. The engine had still not been fired for the first time. I pressurized the cooling system to check for leaks and found none, prepped the engine for starting, and attempted to start. Cranked abnormally, so I checked timing [found to be ok] and tried again. Not good, seemed to almost lock up. I started pulling plugs to see what cranking without plugs in was like, got to #5 hole and water poured out. I have now pulled that head expecting to see something odd with the gasket or head. Don't see it. This is a Jon Barrett crate motor, 330 HP, with World Product SR heads. Since Jon is out of business, I can't question him, so once again I am looking for some input from you all. Joe

Land Yacht

I assume you checked both the head and block for flatness using a trusted straightedge? Looking from the side see if you can see light under the straightedge indicating a lowspot, or try to slip a feeler gauge under it. Look for cracks, bad gasket, or not torqued just right?
1965 Impala SS 283/250 -sold- :(
1977 Chevy Caprice -totaled 2005 :(

1999 Chevy S-10 ZR2  Bacon Getter

Okiedokie

Quote from: "Land Yacht"I assume you checked both the head and block for flatness using a trusted straightedge? Looking from the side see if you can see light under the straightedge indicating a lowspot, or try to slip a feeler gauge under it. Look for cracks, bad gasket, or not torqued just right?

I did thanks, appears to have been simply a poor job of torqueing the head. Should have it ready for first fire tomorrow. Then I will know if i am correct. Joe