What is the best Street Rod cam for a SBC

[Learpilot]

I am now waiting (not too patiencely) for my new interior. I hate it when someone else works on my Dodge, but I don't know how to do interior work.
Anyway not having anything to do I have been thinking. That can be dangerious. I would like to know what cam you choose for your Street Rod with a Small Block Chevy. Flat tappet or roller , grind ,what manufacture and where did you buy it.
I know we want it all 1000 hp and 30 MPG and sit at a long red light in 100 degree heat and not overheat.
My engine is a '68 350 bored .030 over, cast pistons, stock double hump heads, EFI, 700R trans, 3.55 gear and my Dodge weighs 3100 #.
Thanks for all your info !!!
Rick

[enjenjo]

Since you have an EFI, we need to know what it is. The cam will have to match the EFI parameters to work right. Also compression ratio will help.

[Charlie Chops 1940]

If that was a carb. engine I would recommend a 350/350 hp or 327/350 hp hydraulic  cam  You can get either or a lot of the private label brands have a sort of composite mix of the 2 cams. With 1.94 heads and a 600 carb  they will generally idle right around 600-650 and run strong from right off idle to5300 or so.  My ZZ4 engine in the '40 with a 600 carb  and 700r4 averaged 16.5 on its last 7000 Bonneville trip. Saw some low 20's in there. Got close to 26 coming home from Columbus once ( almost all flat land).

Charlie

[WZ JUNK]

When I bought the new cam for my truck last summer, I followed Hooley's advise and called Comp Cams.  They will ask you a bunch of questions about your engine, vehicle and weight, transmission, and rear gear ratio.  I went with one of their "Thumper" cams.  It was actually a less radical cam than the one I had picked out myself before I called them. I only ran it on the strip a couple of times this fall but it seems to do fine.  I imagine any of the cam manufactures would do the same as Comp does.  I figure that they are experts.

John

[Learpilot]

Since you have an EFI, we need to know what it is. The cam will have to match the EFI parameters to work right. Also compression ratio will help.

I have an Holley 950 MPFI with a 1000 CFM throttle body and 24# injectors.
Affordable Fuel Injection wire harness with a Gm TPI computer and the chip can be reflashed to different cam spec.
I have stock '68 Chevy Double hump heads (1.94" intake/ 1.60" ex valves)with flat top pistons. I think the compression ratio is 9.5 to 9.75. The weight of the car is 3100#. The rear end gear is 3.55 with a 700r Trans with stock converter. I have power steering, power brakes and A/C.
Thanks, Rick

[sirstude]

John is giving the best advice.  I talked to both Crane and Comp when I ordered for my Olds.  Crane went out of business during that time, so I got the Comp.

Doug

[enjenjo]

I am not familiar with the Holley EFI, beyond knowing it is not like  a TPI, but more like a TBI. So I am going to suggest calling a cam manufacturer too. I don't know if your setup has a knock sensor, and computer controlled ignition, that makes a difference too. In general, EFI cams have more lobe seperation than carbureted cams for a crisper signal. I also know the wrong cam will give you tuning headaches you would not believe with EFI.

[UGLY OLDS]

Rick ...After calling the cam people , call Holley & talk to their tech dept to see how much cam your system can be re-worked to run with ...  I have done a BUNCH of "home work" on TPI conversions & believe me , "burning another chip" is a well used term in tuning circles....VERY FEW people can get it correct & the best "tuners" use a chassis dyno for a BASELINE & work from there....VERY time consuming .....Very frustrating via mail order...Very few run correctly .... I have removed chips burned by the "Speciality" companies & found the engines to run better & smoother with stock proms...  I'm doing my engine set-up "backwards" ....I'm building an earlier engine to run on "stock" proms......   Like Frank says ....They can be a REAL nightmare if done incorrectly ..... :?




Bob...........

[brucer]

with the stock converter i would say a comp cams xr258hr its a retrofit hydraulic roller about as big as you can go with stock converter..  if you go to the roller cam you'll need lifters, pushrods and valvesprings, then you might as well get roller rockers..


as for tuning. i have a 94camaro lt1, actually rebuiding the engine at the moment bought the car for $1000 with a spun main.. i'm going to use pcmforless for my tuning needs, either that or i'm going to order the cats system and do it myself.. i could post you some links to some of the best tuners but i cant cause of the spam control i have to post more than 5 time i guess..

as for tuning:  there are some things you do for a custom tune that alot of people dont do... the good mail-order tuners will do your initial tune, then you install it and do a datalog, its a real time diagnostic run on your car.. this logs everything your engine does for a short time.. so basicly you run a quarter mile pass and datalog it, you send them the datalog and then they reprogram your chip again to perfect it for your particular application.....  you can speed this up using someone that dynotunes your vehicle as they are doing it on the spot..

[Learpilot]

with the stock converter i would say a comp cams xr258hr its a retrofit hydraulic roller about as big as you can go with stock converter..  if you go to the roller cam you'll need lifters, pushrods and valvesprings, then you might as well get roller rockers..


as for tuning. i have a 94camaro lt1, actually rebuiding the engine at the moment bought the car for $1000 with a spun main.. i'm going to use pcmforless for my tuning needs, either that or i'm going to order the cats system and do it myself.. i could post you some links to some of the best tuners but i cant cause of the spam control i have to post more than 5 time i guess..

as for tuning:  there are some things you do for a custom tune that alot of people dont do... the good mail-order tuners will do your initial tune, then you install it and do a datalog, its a real time diagnostic run on your car.. this logs everything your engine does for a short time.. so basicly you run a quarter mile pass and datalog it, you send them the datalog and then they reprogram your chip again to perfect it for your particular application.....  you can speed this up using someone that dynotunes your vehicle as they are doing it on the spot..

Thanks for all the info and I will call Comp and Holley before I buy a new cam and lifters.
Rick

[brucer]

sent you a pm with a web address to a very reputable programmer, very reasonable and honest guy..  i havent used him but on 4 different lt1 websites hes the one to go to for programming.

[chimp koose]

I am going to GUESS that the cam recommended (if you go hydraulic flat tappet) will be 220-224 duration @.050, .470ish lift ,110-112 lobe center(112 probably). Anyone else want to take a stab at matching the cam company recommendations?

[brucer]

i would pick a lunati 60101LK if using stock converter and flat tappet, then if i wanted more cam later i would just get 1.6 rocker arms..

Basic Operating RPM Range      1,000-5,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift      213
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift      219
Duration at 050 inch Lift      213 int./219 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration      256
Advertised Exhaust Duration      262
Advertised Duration      256 int./262 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio      0.454 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio      0.468 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio      0.454 int./0.468 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees)      112
Intake Valve Lash      0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash      0.000 in.
Computer-Controlled Compatible      Yes