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Awesome pics George!!!   Thanks SO much for sharing!

Kerry

Some of the notables that ran that day were Bob Sullivan, Earl Beard, Gary LeFever, Jerry Livingston, Lou Kangaloose, Rod Stucky and Tom Hanna.

Not sure how many locals or big names those are.

My friend Carl Fry was there that day and said he was almost run over by Chris Karamasines silently coasting back from a run.

And as typical in Kansas on a wide expanse of concrete under a glaring sun, it was searing heat there.

Notice the guys hiding under the trophy truck bed.

Wow!  What kind of trouble don't you get into?  Was the crank the only thing you broke last year?

I'd just like to take a quick minute to wish the two of you lots of love and joy on your special day and for the rest of your lives together.

I'm a bit late but Congrats!!!  Here's wishing you a life of happiness together!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6235&item=4508548126&rd=1

Id Pass.......
Dave

I know the guy must have spent a lot of time on his "pride and joy" but ...   YIKES!

The outer bearing measures .750 on your spindle, which is standard on mostlater model hubs. the rest of the later hubs measure .875 ID, but there are .750 bearings to fit them. The inner bearing is more difficult, none of the standard inner bearings on the later hubs are the same size. The bearings are also spaced closer on the later hubs. The way to fix this is with a spacer bushing that is pressed on the spindle. The ID would be the OD of the spindle, The OD of the bushing  is the ID of the new bearing. On the spacer part, you make it from .375 to .500 thick depending on the spindle you are using. Then the OD of the spacer is the ID of the seal on the later hub. It solves three problems at once, bearing ID, bearing spacing, and a seal surface to fit the later seal. The kit Kerry mentioned may have a spacer that will work. As far as I know, GM didn't change the ID of the bearings until well into the 50's. the only fly in the ointment might be bearing spacing, as the earlier spindles are a bit longer, so you might need a little more shim behind the spacer to make it work. On the adapter for the caliper, GM used the same bolt pattern for many years, the only difference was the spacing, so with custom spacers the adapter should work.

Another route to go would be the one I told Rooster, use a 49 to 54 Chevy car hub, with a 78 to 85 toronado rotor which will slip on the 49 to 54 hub. Then all you have to do is fab a caliper bracket. If you prefer drum brakes, the entire 49 to 54 chevy brake assembly can be adapted, or one from a 49 to 54 Pontiac for even bigger brakes.

I know I took pictures of the adapters I made but I can't find them.  I just did a quick freehand image in Microsoft paint so sizes and dimensions are all wrong but you get the idea.  When I made mine I didn't make the clearance tight enough for my taste.  If I had it to do again they would fit the spindle tighter.

I found the adapters that came with the GM to early Chevy adapters from speedway and they are labeled  PINTO => CHEVY.  These adapters space the inner bearings away from the back of the spindle and provide a seal surface but do not have the nipple (for lack of a better word) that the inner race goes on as seen in my doodle.

I whittled some adapters on a lathe to put late 70's early eighties GM metric rotors on 32 Chevy pickup spindles.  The adaptors were for the back bearings.  The front bearings worked fine.as they were.   I used some Speedway caliper mounting brackets.  The brackets came with some spindle adapters as well but since I had made mine I didn't even check to see if they would fit.  Mine used the original GM inner races but I think the ones in the kit needed a different one.  I forget what year the Chevy brackets were listed for but it wasn't a thirties Chevy spindle, worked fine though.

Kerry, I've got an extra one of those front ends laying around and was thinking about using it someday on a budget rod made out of stuff I've already got.  I was wondering how yours is working out.  Does it drive good and handle reasonably well?.....as good as a Ford beam axle?

It works great.  No problems so far.  Handles fine.  In fact I think it handles every bit as good as the Ford buggy spring setup.  The parallel springs locate the axle just fine, even in a hard corner.  I must say that the coupe rode very well but didn't handle all that well untill I put some slapper traction bars in back.   I have the traction bars snubbed all the way against the spring so I don't have to listen and feel it hit the spring all the time.  Up side is it handles like a slot car now.  Down side is it rides like a cement truck.  This is no reflection on the front end setup.   I'll live with it though.  It's to much fun this way!!!  The downsides are the same as the Ford axle.  Not as much suspension travel as an IFS and a lot of weight to move around.  When you hit rougher roads you notice sooner than if you had an IFS.  

Not long after I put the rear traction bars on I got in behind a late 80's camaro on some twisty stuff and he couldn't shake me.  :-)  Next time we cross paths I'll have to let you try her out.

I whittled some adapters on a lathe to put late 70's early eighties GM metric rotors on 32 Chevy pickup spindles.  The adaptors were for the back bearings.  The front bearings worked fine.as they were.   I used some Speedway caliper mounting brackets.  The brackets came with some spindle adapters as well but since I had made mine I didn't even check to see if they would fit.  Mine used the original GM inner races but I think the ones inthe kit needed a different one.  I forget what year the Chevy brackets were listed for but it wasn't a thirties Chevy spindle, worked fine though.

Hello all, I just wanted to pick yer brains for a moment.  I did a search for this but didn't seem to find what I was looking for.  I was wondering if anyone knew what hub/drum would fit on a 1930 Chevy spindle without much modification?  I've looked for drums that may interchange but didn't find anything.  I tried my 64 Impala drums but to get them to fit would require some machine time.  Thats no problem, I was just wondering if anybody out there has put anything on a late model Chevy spindle that works.  

Please pass on any info.  It would be appreciated.  

Thanks in advance.
Adam

Not sure why the attachment didn't take but I'll try again when I get done here at work.

The plate's behind the gas tank not the body, and there's no door for the gas filler.  Good ideas anyways.  

Here's an old pic of the backside.  I'm thinking I'll do the push /pull setup and run the bar out at the bottom of the body to the right of the right tailight.  I am open to any other ideas.  Still not wild about just pluging the hole with a cariage bolt.

A push/pull handle to a swtich mounted in the trunk was one of my first thoughts.  From what I've read it's ok with the NHRA.  The question with this arrangement is when the handle is removed, what would fill the hole?  Simple answer would be something like a painted carriage bolt. Not sure how that would look.

Now that I've gotten my coupe into the 13's I've gotten the bug to race more than the occasional nostalgia event where the rules aren't that tight.  

NHRA says I need a battery cuttoff.  Physically putting one in is no big deal but doing it so it could be hidden when not in use might be challenging.  I don't really want to cruise around with a big redd button or switch on the back of my car.

What have you done for a cutoff switch?

It seems to me it all comes down to respect.  There seems to be a lot less of it around these days.  We continually are trying to teach our kids respect for others but this culture we live in these days is all about self instead of others.  Sad.

Before I ask anyone any questions I do my homework and try to solve it myself. If I truly am stuck, then I'll ask.  It sorta bums me out that the lack of respect by some sours folks and messes things up for others.

Even if our conversation was short, it was very good to see you again and catch up a bit.  I'm sure glad you're feeling better.  

I'm starting to realize just what you mean about all the friends these hot rods bring together.  Life is good!!!

This last year has been bad for me doing any work on any hot rod but I'm trying to get back in gear.  I picked up a very rusty 37 Chevy Pickup yesterday missing all the front sheetmetal other than the hood and it's ROUGH.  Today I picked up a 36 Chevy Master sedan missing all of the front sheetmetal other than the left fender.  The deck lid also has some rust and could be fixed but it would be cool to find a nicer one.

I think I have a line on a 36 radiator shell and a std hood.  Any idea where I might find the rest?

As for the 31 Pontiac coupe I've done a little bit of work on the block leak,  and put some traction bars on but that's about it.  I have been having fun driving it  around though.  :-)